Thoglette wrote:Pretty.
(Dialing it in with Dani Windhausen)
Postby Thoglette » Fri Apr 13, 2018 12:15 pm
Postby owly » Tue Apr 17, 2018 12:36 pm
Postby singlespeedscott » Tue Apr 17, 2018 2:25 pm
Postby Thoglette » Tue Apr 17, 2018 3:30 pm
You might need to swum over the dutch to Un Zud where there's a distributor. From here, Singapore is closer (lah)singlespeedscott wrote:To[o] bad you can’t get it in OZ.
Postby singlespeedscott » Tue Apr 17, 2018 5:03 pm
Postby savvas » Thu May 03, 2018 6:55 am
Postby singlespeedscott » Tue Jun 19, 2018 5:31 am
Postby owly » Wed Jun 20, 2018 7:57 am
Been watching that; waiting for some frame numbers to appear. Very light frameset that 56.
Postby 10speedsemiracer » Wed Jun 20, 2018 9:18 am
Beautifully made. Could make a very tasty mid-long distance commuter out of one of these..
Postby Thoglette » Thu Jun 28, 2018 3:45 pm
Postby singlespeedscott » Fri Jun 29, 2018 6:54 am
Postby singlespeedscott » Mon Aug 27, 2018 9:06 pm
Postby 10speedsemiracer » Wed Aug 29, 2018 5:24 pm
Tasty. I do love a Raleigh. You do know that now we know this is going on, we expect progress pics.......singlespeedscott wrote:Righto, I have finally scored myself a worthy frame of converting to 650b. Yay
It’s a nice 1987-88 Raleigh Royal.
The frame is a 25" made from Reynolds 531 Special Tourist, not the heavy duty Super Tourist tubeset. Special tourist is the same as normal 531 but uses a slightly thicker gauge downtube and chainstays. Exactly where you want the stiffness in such a large frame.
With this frame I’ll get the French fit look I’m after with the lugged standard size tubing and a level top tube.
Being a touring/audax frame, I’ve calculated it’s trail will be 52mm with 40mm 650b tyres, mid range which is fine with me. I’ve still yet to try the low trail thing and haven’t experienced handling issues with a handlebar bag on normal trail bikes.
The frame is designed for 700c wheels with 28mm tyres. Brakes are cantilever. Unfortunately the mudguard mounts are pretty poorly designed on the rear.
The plan is to find a frame builder that can relocate the cantilever mounts for 650b wheels and setup the rear end for properly mounted mudguards.
I’m open to suggestions as to who might be a good choice for these modifications.
Postby singlespeedscott » Wed Aug 29, 2018 9:40 pm
Postby Thoglette » Thu Aug 30, 2018 1:16 pm
If you're going to all that trouble, you might consider centre-pull mounts rather than cantis. I'm about to* swap the front fork on my canti-equipped commuter to see whether they're worth the effortsinglespeedscott wrote:The plan is to find a frame builder that can relocate the cantilever mounts for 650b wheels and setup the rear end for properly mounted mudguards.
Postby baabaa » Thu Aug 30, 2018 1:17 pm
Why mod the frame ( and cut/remove/ filedown then re-braze new bosses and then repaint )when you could just go some of these...https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/components/motolite/singlespeedscott wrote:Righto, I have finally scored myself a worthy frame of converting to 650b. Yay
I’m open to suggestions as to who might be a good choice for these modifications.
Postby Thoglette » Thu Aug 30, 2018 1:23 pm
650B Retrofitting Benefits -- Racer to Tourerbaabaa wrote: I would guess most of what 650B does in a small frame size is lost on an xl frame.
I do like the adjustable cantis. I guess they are "long pull" and moving from 622 to 584 will exacerbate that.Sheldon Brown wrote: Does it make sense to change wheel size on an existing bike? Sometimes it may.
If you have a racing-type bike of good quality, but wish to make it more versatile, sturdy and comfortable, converting to 650B may be just the ticket.
Newer racing bikes tend to have exceptionally tight tire clearance. Some of them can't even accommodate a tire wider than about 25 mm, and forget about installing fenders with any size tire!
By switching to 650B from 700C, you suddenly gave clearance enough for medium-width tires, say 35-38 mm width, and for fenders, so you don't need to be a "fair-weather" cyclist.
The wider tires will be more durable, more "sure-footed", and give a more comfortable ride on rough pavement or under moderate off-road conditions. Switching to 650B can also reduce front wheel/toe overlap issues.
Switching to 650B will lower the bottom bracket a bit, making for easier mounting/dismounting. (Many newer bikes have excessively high bottom brackets to begin with.)
It also lowers the top tube, possibly making a bike safely usable for a shorter rider than would otherwise fit it, due to lack of standover clearance.
If you are going from a very narrow 622 (700C) tire to a fairly wide 584 (650B), the difference may be minimal. For instance, a 19-622 (700 x 19C) tire would theoretically have exactly the same outside diameter as a 38-584 (650 x 38B).
Postby singlespeedscott » Thu Aug 30, 2018 2:48 pm
To start with the motolites would not reach down to a 650b rim with the canti studs setup for 700c.baabaa wrote:Why mod the frame ( and cut/remove/ filedown then re-braze new bosses and then repaint )when you could just go some of these...https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/components/motolite/singlespeedscott wrote:Righto, I have finally scored myself a worthy frame of converting to 650b. Yay
I’m open to suggestions as to who might be a good choice for these modifications.
Would have to be cheaper and besides you could then still use both 650B and 700c wheelsets.
But my question is if it is a xl 25 inch frame why go 650B and not just stay with 700C? I would guess most of what 650B does in a small frame size is lost on an xl frame. If you after more tyre width, I would guess you can find plenty of new to market supple tyres now that will give you more or less the same as 650B? If you just want a hobby then I will shut up and agree it will be a fun project.
Postby Thoglette » Thu Aug 30, 2018 5:28 pm
Mine standard Shimano vintage cantis are close to doing 650B wheels and they're currently set up for 27" (630). But it'd take a silly angle of the brake pad (my cantis use traditional brake pads with unthreaded shafts, like the Kool Stop Eagle Claw which provide even more ways to maladjust the brakes).singlespeedscott wrote:To start with the motolites would not reach down to a 650b rim with the canti studs setup for 700c.
Postby Bendo » Thu Aug 30, 2018 10:33 pm
This above was a while ago now so my post might be old news, but https://commutercycles.com.au/shop/surl ... t-special/ says just under $3000. It doesn't say built up but I assume it must be. bThoglette wrote:Been out since Feb but I've not found it in this thread.
Flat mount discs, 12mm through axles 142mm spacing at the back, space for 60mm tyres w/out mudguards and "road" geometry. Surly are claiming 23lb or 10.5kg. 44mm head set, 68mm BB. CroMo double butted main triangle. Interesting mix of old and new.
US pricing is "Complete bikes retail for $1799 with the frame at $625" (biketimesmag) Similar story at BikeRadar whjo note that UK and AUD prices remain to be confirmed
Lots of .au Surly dealers, so has anyone seen one yet?
Postby ChrisCrash » Mon Sep 03, 2018 8:40 pm
Postby Thoglette » Tue Sep 04, 2018 11:30 am
At that price point you're into entry-level Rivendell pricing (Clem $1650USD, Hillborne $2100 USD etc) or a complete set of parts from VeloOrange (if one must have discs)ChrisCrash wrote:About $1000 more, but worth it to me.
Postby wqlava1 » Tue Sep 04, 2018 1:06 pm
You'll get another significant change for the better in ride experience when you try the 650x47b tyres - you lose about 6% in circumference of the tyre but gain almost a third in cross sectional area, for an overall about a quarter more volume. And with volume, you can let the pressure down, and you can then let some supple tyres work for you (and low pressures are where they can be best appreciated).ChrisCrash wrote: I bought a Cosmic Stallion instead
You can get that bike here too and it will take 650x47's but it comes with 700cx42. After riding the 42's - WTB's set up tubeless, in a lot of varied conditions I'm pretty pleased with myself on my choice.
SSS uses about the same size frame as me, and thus I would predict is both taller and possibly a little heavier than "average". (Pardon me mate if I'm wrong!) But my experience is that to get what 650B does in a small frame he needs more volume than the probably lighter rider on the small frame, thus needs the greatest possible tyre width. Going to a larger rim diameter is a really poor way to get more volume - it's much easier with a few mm extra tyre width and minimizing unused clearance in the stays and fork.baabaa wrote: But my question is if it is a xl 25 inch frame why go 650B and not just stay with 700C? I would guess most of what 650B does in a small frame size is lost on an xl frame. If you after more tyre width, I would guess you can find plenty of new to market supple tyres now that will give you more or less the same as 650B?
Postby singlespeedscott » Tue Sep 04, 2018 5:04 pm
Postby wqlava1 » Tue Sep 04, 2018 5:42 pm
Users browsing this forum: No registered users
The Australian Cycling Forums is a welcoming community where you can ask questions and talk about the type of bikes and cycling topics you like.