New Zealand: Over the Top...

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RonK
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New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby RonK » Tue Dec 16, 2014 2:21 pm

It's been a while since I last toured - accruing enough leave has been difficult under the leave policies of my current employer. But at last I have enough for a month's touring.

So, flights are booked and I'm off in March to complete the explorations of the South Island which I started back in 2010.

On the last couple of tours I visited the central and southern parts so this time I'm going over the top. I've mapped out what is likely to be an overly ambitious route that starts in Christchurch and crosses Arthur's Pass to the west coast before heading north to Golden Bay, Marlborough and then across the Molesworth and Rainbow roads (requiring some backtracking) before recrossing the Lewis Pass and returning to Christchurch. A lot of planning will be required to come up with a rational itinerary that will be more like a holiday than a grand tour.

At least for the first time I'll be travelling in autumn instead of spring, so expect more settled weather. So I should be able to take only a 3 seasons tent and travel a bit lighter with less gear.

It's going to be good.
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Warin
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby Warin » Wed Dec 17, 2014 10:42 am

I've bicycle Arthur's Pass from west to east .. that is the way the wind blows .. and blow it does.. pedaling upwards at about 6km/h I turned a corner and the wind caught me .. made my self into a sail .. stopped pedaling and speed became 12km/h .. similar slope. You may have to pedal down hill .. I'd check which pass has the higher wind speed... use that one in the west to east direction? Oh .. going down the hill? 75km/h with the brakes on.. the brakes were used to significantly slow where the cross winds were (gaps in side hills).

NZ is an excellent place to tour .. as you know. Wish you the best in weather...

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RonK
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby RonK » Wed Dec 17, 2014 2:16 pm

Hehe - yes I've had a couple of tastes of the westerly winds. Last visit it took me 3 hours to ride 10km during one westerly gale.

You are right of course, but Arthur's Pass is much steeper from the west - up to 20% in places. But I suppose if left until last I should have good legs by then.

My problem is how to ride both the Molesworth and Rainbow roads, visit Golden Bay and cross the pass without backtracking, and preferable avoiding SH1. But I'm thinking more and more that avoiding SH1 is not feasible. And Kaikoura would be worth visiting anyway. I'll just have to grit my teeth and put up with the traffic. Not that it bothers me that much.

So perhaps something like this - 1528kms - done anti-clockwise...

For a full-sized map click on More options and then on bicycle routing.
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby Calvin27 » Thu Dec 18, 2014 9:25 am

I just came back from NZ. Not bicycle touring but driving. here are some words of wisdom in case this is your first time touring South Island.

SAND FLIES!!! LOTS AND LOTS OF REPELLENT!!!

Good luck and lots of photos.
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby outnabike » Thu Dec 18, 2014 9:46 am

RonK wrote: I'll just have to grit my teeth and put up with the traffic. Not that it bothers me that much..
Hi RonK, What a great trip.
I reckon it will be hard trek in places, and thankfully we have digital cameras to take lots of pics. I know on the Hast Pass the photo opportunities are on every change of vista. :)
A great adventure.
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby RonK » Thu Dec 18, 2014 11:38 pm

outnabike wrote:
RonK wrote: I'll just have to grit my teeth and put up with the traffic. Not that it bothers me that much..
Hi RonK, What a great trip.
I reckon it will be hard trek in places, and thankfully we have digital cameras to take lots of pics. I know on the Haast Pass the photo opportunities are on every change of vista. :)
A great adventure.
Haast Pass? Like this you mean?
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby RonK » Thu Dec 18, 2014 11:51 pm

Calvin27 wrote:I just came back from NZ. Not bicycle touring but driving. here are some words of wisdom in case this is your first time touring South Island.

SAND FLIES!!! LOTS AND LOTS OF REPELLENT!!!

Good luck and lots of photos.
Yeah, I know about the sandflies, but I really dislike DEET. Last time I just kept covered up.

Will start a new blog journal soon and will be posting plenty of pics...
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby RonK » Sat Dec 20, 2014 11:19 pm

Haven't decided which bike I'm going to take yet - Sabbath Silk Route (above) or Van Nicholas Pioneer. But I''m leaning towards the Sabbath, so I'm building the SP PV8 dynamo hub I acquired a while ago into a wheel using a H Plus Son Archetype rim. And since I'll be looking at several hundred kilometers of gravel grinding I've tracked down a set of 32mm Vittoria Randonneur Cross tyres to try.
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby RonK » Thu Feb 05, 2015 8:00 pm

With just over three weeks remaining before departure I've received some disturbing news about my planned route, which was intended to include the Rainbow and Molesworth roads.

But the northern parts of the South Island are currently in drought, and after a spate of bushfires breaking out, both roads have been closed this week.

It's possible they'll reopen before I arrive there, but likely that will depend on the region receiving some decent rainfall. On the other hand, since the summer season will soon draw to a close, it's possible they won't reopen again until spring.

Meantime I'll have to plan some alternative routes just in case.
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby BenGr » Fri Feb 13, 2015 3:17 pm

I've recently come back from 3 months cycling New Zealand including most of what you planned.

I thought I should mention that you can get permission to do the Rainbow/Molesworth tracks outside of the normal period. I did the Rainbow at the end of November, just called up someone from the station and they just told me to fill out a form and bring it with me.

Your route looks pretty good. SH1 is rarely fun and the stretch along the Kaikoura coast is pretty but very narrow. the inland route from Kaikoura is hilly but otherwise quite nice.

You could do Arthurs - Lewis - Rainbow - Golden bay - Picton - Molesworth. Leaves you up the creek if you can't do the Rainbow but it does avoid SH1.

If you had through Murchison I can reccomend "The Lazy Cow" backpackers. On arrival myself and 2 other cyclists I'd met were offered a beer!

Another word of warning, the Kea's are pretty nasty on Arthurs Pass. If you camp in the village I'd suggest keeping your bike in the shelter.

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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby RonK » Fri Feb 13, 2015 4:16 pm

Tour journal is now online: North of South.
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby RonK » Thu Feb 19, 2015 3:30 pm

BenGr wrote:I've recently come back from 3 months cycling New Zealand including most of what you planned.

I thought I should mention that you can get permission to do the Rainbow/Molesworth tracks outside of the normal period. I did the Rainbow at the end of November, just called up someone from the station and they just told me to fill out a form and bring it with me.

Your route looks pretty good. SH1 is rarely fun and the stretch along the Kaikoura coast is pretty but very narrow. the inland route from Kaikoura is hilly but otherwise quite nice.

You could do Arthurs - Lewis - Rainbow - Golden bay - Picton - Molesworth. Leaves you up the creek if you can't do the Rainbow but it does avoid SH1.

If you had through Murchison I can reccomend "The Lazy Cow" backpackers. On arrival myself and 2 other cyclists I'd met were offered a beer!

Another word of warning, the Kea's are pretty nasty on Arthurs Pass. If you camp in the village I'd suggest keeping your bike in the shelter.
Hi Ben - sorry I missed your post somehow.

Seems there are quite a few on the same route, as another touring acquaintance has also just completed it too.

Thanks for the advice about the Kea's on Arthurs Pass - I've heard the same from other tourists also, and plan to stay in a backpacker if possible.

I've just had some good news re the Rainbow Road - according to the Lone Star Farms web site the Rainbow is open again. According to DOC the Archeron Road is still closed but I've applied for a permit and should get it OK if my reading of the DOC web site is correct.

Tour preparations are coming together well. Most of my gear is assembled so I'll be packing bike and baggage this weekend.
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby RonK » Mon Feb 23, 2015 3:38 pm

More good news - I have received a permit from DoC NZ to ride across the Archeron Road through Molesworth Station, so with the news posted on the Lone Star Farms web site that the Rainbow Road is open, my original itinerary is intact. :D :D :D
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby rifraf » Thu Feb 26, 2015 1:16 pm

Have you decided not to add the Heathy to your itinerary? :shock:
Just thinking about it almost makes me want to be at Karamea casting a few spinners into the river mouth on an incoming tide to take advantage of the abundant Pacific Salmon. :idea:
There is/was good sized flounder in the lagoon to encourage a couple of nights spear fishing by lantern or simply a bit of night fishing.
Even from a safety perspective, the Heathy would get you off that main road from the Coast to Nelson which attracts people wanting to speed by virtue of its low population and perception of few police ticket masters.
You know that fishing rod of yours needs a couple of catches to justify its purchase :!:
Some just landed Kahawai sizzling in a pan with a sneaky bottle of Marlborough Sav Blanc cooling in the eddy of said Karamea River mouth to help wash it down is just the remedy to too long in Brisbane doing IT. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby RonK » Thu Feb 26, 2015 2:40 pm

rifraf wrote:Have you decided not to add the Heathy to your itinerary? :shock:
Just thinking about it almost makes me want to be at Karamea casting a few spinners into the river mouth on an incoming tide to take advantage of the abundant Pacific Salmon. :idea:
There is/was good sized flounder in the lagoon to encourage a couple of nights spear fishing by lantern or simply a bit of night fishing.
Even from a safety perspective, the Heathy would get you off that main road from the Coast to Nelson which attracts people wanting to speed by virtue of its low population and perception of few police ticket masters.
You know that fishing rod of yours needs a couple of catches to justify its purchase :!:
Some just landed Kahawai sizzling in a pan with a sneaky bottle of Marlborough Sav Blanc cooling in the eddy of said Karamea River mouth to help wash it down is just the remedy to too long in Brisbane doing IT. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Sav blanc - gasp! rifraf, surely you don't think I'd stoop so low as to drink white wine? :shock: Pinot noir maybe but white - never. :roll:

No, it's not practical to ride Heaphy this trip - I really wouldn't want to tackle it on a fully-loaded touring bike with panniers anyway, but the main reason is that the track is only open to bikes during winter, May to September. I've read that the rangers have been policing it hard after complaint by walkers. And this journal talks about some bikes with petrol engines being ordered off the track, so I wouldn't risk it out of season.

So the Heaphy will have to wait until my Fargo is built and equipped for bikepacking, when I'll probably combine it with the Queen Charlotte, the Old Ghost Road and maybe the West Coast Wilderness Trail. Or perhaps the Kennett Bros Tour Aotearoa - Cape Reinga to Bluff, but probably taking a little more than 30 days. The possibilities are manifold. This kind of riding is after all the reason for building it.

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Alas, I lost my fishing rod on the second last stage of last tour. I've been thinking about replacing it with a tenkara rod, which with no reel I think would be ideal for touring. But I haven't got around to it yet so I'll have to satisfy my seafood appetite by visiting fush 'n' chups shops for blue cod, mussels and the odd bowl of seafood chowder.

I'm pretty much packed and ready to go Saturday morning - just debating which tent to take, a brand new Tarptent Moment DW, or the Hilleberg I used last tour. I've just discovered that the Moment DW doesn't fit in my bags - at 18 x 4 inches it packs too long. I'm thinking I ought to sell it unused and replace it with the new Tarptent Protrail, which is stuffable and will be a better bikepacking tent. I don't really want to take the heavier Hilleberg but commonsense tells me that's the way to go.
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby rifraf » Sat Feb 28, 2015 5:19 pm

I think your common sense is right.
If NZ offers up some common weather conditions to go with that common sense, you'll be glad of a "proper" tent and the protection it offers.

Your probably on the plane right now so I'll have to look forward to an update on your blog to see what you decided end the end by way of bike, tent and wether or not you invest in a rod whilst in NZ.

The South Island fush n chups should offer up an adequate tasty and bargain priced (compared to WA or Sydney anyway) kaimoana (seafood).
A tent that gets the evil reputation for over warm in Aussie conditions will likely be just the ticket for NZ's more "temperate" ones.
Likely you'll get a night or two where you'll be glad of a little less ventilation and with the Southerly gales common in NZ, a little overbuilt strength and longevity will be something you'll forever be glad you carried some extra pounds/ounces for.

I know people in NZ who wear their knees with their hard won attitude of nothing less than the weight/strength of a Macpac Olympus, having experienced a failed attempt at camping in something less robust in a NZ gale replete with "special" Scotch mist. :wink:
A downed soaked tent is not the stuff of fond memories.
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby rifraf » Tue Mar 03, 2015 12:07 am

A squiz at RonK's tracker suggests he's left Chch behind him and he's now at the foot of the Southern Alps at Springfield
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Springfield,_New_Zealand" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
The weather isn't looking to great with rain forecast for the mornings start.
Hope you've got your waterwings/floaties RonK :P
The Showers Pass might start earning its purchase cost.
I couldn't find mention about what was your final decision with regards which bike you were going to take or tent come to think about it.
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New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby RonK » Tue Mar 03, 2015 6:18 am

Yes, in Springfield after an epic day fighting headwinds in 34 degree heat. When I expected to have a cruisy day before pass day.

I was too tired to update journal - just enough energy left to shower and eat before collapsing in bed.

And yes, it's raining this morning. Just lightly so I may not need the Showers Pass.

Oh, and I'm riding the VN Pioneer. Weight reduction won out and I found a way to fit the Tarptent in my bags. I'm not expecting to use it anyway so no point lugging the heavier tent.
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby rifraf » Tue Mar 03, 2015 11:28 am

Ahhhh, well I'm pleased you chose to give the VN Pioneer a tour.
Despite your preference for drops and lack of enthusiasm for the "Hoff", I think you'd be doing yourself a disservice if you didn't give a tour a twirl before making a final decision on moving to a different multi-surface tourer.
The Pioneer got some very good reviews in cyclings eminent sites and I'm hopeful, after so much effort on your part of assessment and putting it all together, that you get to find at least some of the positives that inspired you to source everything and build it in the first place.
Had it catered to my fetish for disk brakes, it would have been a real contender for my list of possibles before I went with the Ogre.
The dollar was high at the time and there was some bargain prices available on the Pioneer frame that I think I shared in another thread.
I'm looking forward, closer to the end of your trip, to a synopsis of your impressions of the bike and what you might hope will be an improvement in your next build should you decide to look for tangible benefits by way of a Fargo 2 or other.

Too tired for journal updates might well be a trend in the coming days with the Alps upon you and there being no shortage of hill-work on your intended itinerary.
With no sign of Homer or Bart there will likely be little to keep you amused in Springfield despite its claim to an affinity to history by way of
giant pink doughnuts, gothic revival churches or memorials to colourful characters of intellectual bent who had not a little influence in Communist China and shone bright despite a birthplace in small town NZ.
I actually thought Rewi Alley interesting enough to peruse a web page or two as I'd not heard of him before and I've made note to stop in Springfield myself should I return to NZ's fair shores again one day.
I liked the arson of the Pink Doughnut story and the Kiwi "She'll be right" substitution with a pink tire "for now".
Ferroequinologist's no doubt would be amused for days by the mere proximity of the Midland Rail Heritage Trust.

Happy spinning and I'll look forward to your next update journeying in the Land of the Great White Cloud with its inherent precipitation.
Keep that Showers Pass handy. :wink:
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby BenGr » Tue Mar 03, 2015 12:07 pm

Enjoy Porters Pass! (hopefully there's a sign at the top now)
Hopefully you get lucky with the weather.

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New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby RonK » Wed Mar 04, 2015 3:36 pm

I'm sitting in the front window of the Wobbly Kea cafe bar in Arthurs Pass, enjoying a pint of Monteith's Old in the hope it'll numb the ache in my legs.
Porters Pass was a bastard - no peace from the traffic, trucks passing centimetres away as I wobbled along in low gear, no shoulder and a deep drain on the side. The pass is an anticlimax - no sign and covered in cloud so no way to be sure I'd reached the top until I was well on the way down. After 40kms I called it a day at Flock Hill Station - a lovely spot but no phone service until I arrived here. The ride from Flock Hill would have to be as scenic as you're likely to find in NZ, but also lots of ups and downs.
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby rifraf » Wed Mar 04, 2015 4:29 pm

The Monteiths brings back fond memories of the Coast.
I like the Monteiths Black although they did did ruin it for a while when the company was sold to one of the big Brewers (DB - Dominion Brewery) and production was done in the north islands Auckland (I believe)
The different water made a terrible impact on the flavour but I read recently that production was now back on "The Coast", although wikipedia suggests they also brew still in Auckland and Timaru (South Island east coast).
I also quite like the Doppelbock which is worth a crack.

Hope you've broken out the Sony RX to document your tour or did you grab that Lumix LX100 you were contimplating?
That journey isn't going to be complete without a half dozen snaps of the Otira Viaduct.
Now your not that far as the crow flies to Inchbonnie whose annual rainfall is allegedly around the 6 meter mark. (Wikipedia)
Keep that Showers Pass close :lol: :lol: :lol:
http://www.stuff.co.nz/the-press/christ ... -isolation" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Are you considering any of the local day walks in the area?
Scotts Track I believe is one of the shorter possibilities and supposedly superior for photo opportunities (presumably on a clear day).
"If you wish to climb to the bush-line only, Scotts track is the best local track for views, particularly of Mt Rolleston, the highest peak near Arthur’s Pass Village. You also get an excellent view of Punchbowl Falls 10 minutes up from the start of the track."
http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recrea ... day-walks/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Last edited by rifraf on Wed Mar 04, 2015 7:36 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby Leaf T » Wed Mar 04, 2015 6:59 pm

Ron, It's great hearing about your trip. When the going gets tough say a challenging hill or headwind I say to myself...It's better than work :D

Enjoy!

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New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby RonK » Fri Mar 06, 2015 6:37 am

I've reached Moana, and it's raining heavily. No riding today. The legs need a rest anyway.

Passed through Inchbonnie yesterday but it was looking very dry. There was very heavy rain during dinner last night but locals say it the first for two months.

Crossing of the Southern Alps done now. Plenty more hills to come but the big climbing days are over.

I haven't planned any walks into the itinerary. My knees aren't up to it anyway or I'd be trekking the Himalaya instead of cycle touring.

Most of the pics posted so far are taken with the Sony but there is the odd one taken with an iPhone 6+.
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Re: New Zealand: Over the Top...

Postby BenGr » Fri Mar 06, 2015 2:09 pm

Nice work, but if your route is the same as original your climbing is far from done. Jacks Pass will likely be the toughest, and Takaka is no walk in the park either! Both lead to and are through some amazing landscape though.

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