Shifting and wheel options

[jmacbrid86]

Hey Guys,

I have an entry level Cannondale Trail SL 4 29er, I have had major problems with rear wheel since buying the bike spokes broken out of true after few kms of riding. Shifting has also been a major concern at the rear.

I don't want to over upgrade the bike but do want strong durable wheels and reliable durable shifting.

I am 6ft 5in and weigh 110kgs so that comes into play.

Wheels I have nearly decided on XT hubs laced to TN719 Mavic rims (36h) with DT spokes.

Shifting I am need suggestions don't want to spend over the top.

Cheers J

[Duck!]

Beefier wheels will definitely help, but as far as gearing goes really all it needs is a proper tune & maybe an adjustment of technique on your part. Even the best running gear will shift badly if it's out of tune or if the rider tries to shift under heavy pedalling loads. When you shift gear, slow your cadence slightly, ease the pressure on the pedals, then put the power back in once the new gear is engaged.

If you tend to pedal slowly & push hard on the pedals, you're putting a lot of strain on both the bike and your body. Ideally you want to try to sustain a cadence (pedalling rate) of 80 rpm at least. This will take some training to get your aerobic system to work at comfortably, but you'll be a lot gentler on your equipment, and it'll work better, and for longer.

[trailgumby]

Shifting can be disturbed by a few things, from simply being out of adjustment (get the LBS to show you how), to dirty cable housings (replace), to bent rear derailleur hanger (straighten).

The shifting on that level bike will be reliable if tuned correctly. The only difference between it and the more upmarket gear (such as XT/XTR) on mine is lighter weight and "nicer" ergonomics. Functionally, it's the same.

[jmacbrid86]

Good to know guys. The problem only occurs when shifting down not shifting up, which to me seems strange. I have attempted to adjust through the cable tensioner with no result. Guessing I should read up on sheldon brown.

My question for say the XT range mainly rear mech and shifter is adjustment required less frequently or just same amount. I use the bike for commuting as well don't want to adjust the gears every second weekend.

[silentbutdeadly]

No matter how good the shifter you get...it will always need some regular tuning. Regardless, the better the shifter...the better the shift.

I run an XTR shifter with a Zee rear derailleur and it's the sweetest thing. Another bike has a XTR shifter and an XT rear derailleur - also very very good. Weirdly, I have an X7 shifter talking to an X9 derailleur that is also no bad thing...

The thing that everyone forgets though...cables. I reckon that 95% of any shift issues I have are due to issues related to the cables, either because of wear or dust ingress. The other 5% is due to self generated screw ups during the tinkering process. The issue you describe is more likely related to the cable than anything else...

[Sharkey]

.... I reckon that 95% of any shift issues I have are due to issues related to the cables, either because of wear or dust ingress.

Yes, especially on mountain bikes. My Stumpjumper had constant issues because of the mixture of encased and exposed cable and the routing of the rear deralleur cable under the bottom bracket. The bits of cable housing always filled up with dirt.

I ended up drilling out the cable stops on the frame and running housing all the way from the shifter to the deralleur and haven't had any issues with dirt since.

[zero]

Good to know guys. The problem only occurs when shifting down not shifting up, which to me seems strange. I have attempted to adjust through the cable tensioner with no result. Guessing I should read up on sheldon brown.

My question for say the XT range mainly rear mech and shifter is adjustment required less frequently or just same amount. I use the bike for commuting as well don't want to adjust the gears every second weekend.

the cable often stretch a bit after first installation, ie adjustments become less commonly required over time, but under BB and rear cable loop are all roadbike hangovers and there is better available for MTB.

http://www.this link is broken/au/e ... -prod40542" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

is the thorough fix - Deore is (usually) cheapest unit on the market that is basically fully modern (straight pull, shadow, 36T capacity in a long cage - ideal for 29er and whatever cassette you might use in the future). I found the straight pull a lot more accurate in shifting, doesn't need adjustments often, and never during a race, and not prone to failing to get the largest sprocket, ever.

One problem is that (if cracknfails website photo is accurate) your frame wasn't setup with a cable run that is ideal for a straight pull RD, but any of the straight pull RDs (deore, slx, xt, or xtr) are -all- heaps better than an alivio RD imo (sharkeys solution is one extreme to that, another is just to use your existing cable run with a different loop and the other is to run the cable in full length housing in cable ties via the top tube and seat stay). My bike has all the required stops to run down the seat stay and the shifting is perfect and the cable doesn't get water in or muck in it at all.

[bychosis]

I hardly ever adjust my XT rear mech (with SLX shifter). Its got full length housing to help with the dirt problem.

[silentbutdeadly]

One problem is that (if cracknfails website photo is accurate) your frame wasn't setup with a cable run that is ideal for a straight pull RD, but any of the straight pull RDs (deore, slx, xt, or xtr) are -all- heaps better than an alivio RD

That frame runs a straight pull no worries...I used to own one. Ran it with both an XT and an X9 Type 2. Running a full length outer on that frame will be tricky/ugly but some Jagwire and a couple of other branded cable kits have thin shields that cover the inners on exposed sections and these work almost as well as full length outers http://www.this link is broken/jagwire-ripcord ... cable-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Whilst I'll agree that a full length outer can certainly help...it isn't a universal panacea. And it doesn't prevent or negate routine maintenance of the shift cable.

[jdwynn]

I resolved a lot of my shifting issues with a new chain and new shift housing. The best $40 I have spent in a while.