Suggestions for a XC/trail wheelset

[fixxed]

Hi all,

I currently am running Mavic 721's on my Trek Fuel Ex 8 which is currently set up as a trail/enduro setup (minus the 150mm travel ). The 721's are rock solid and bulletproof but slightly overkill for non DH or AM riding and the weight reflects this. Looking for a wheelset which is much lighter but can be used as a "one size fits all" for the majority of riding conditions (not talking about doing massive drops or DH).

Not looking for Carbon, something reasonably priced but still built well. Was thinking somewhere along the lines of Mavic Crossmax, the ZTR Flow EX or Arch Ex, or Easton Haven's. Any other suggestions or thoughts much appreciated.

Cheers

[mitchy_]

i'd go Arch Ex out of that lot.

Mavic's propriety hubs and spokes can be a turn off.
Flow Ex's are pretty hefty, ~200 grams over a set of Arch Ex's.
Easton Haven's dont have the best wrap either.. and similar issues to the Mavic wheels.

i'd be looking at Arch Ex's on either Hope or Stans hubs. both will accept multiple axle types and are pretty future proof.

[lard]

+1 on the Arch. I've had a set on my 29er for 4 years, still rock solid.

If you're a lightweight you could consider Crests too.

[cage]

Like the others have said, go the Arch.... unless your a clyde, then go the Flows.

[m@]

Crank Brothers wheels turn heads... very happy with my Cobalts. Pushys had some very good pricing a while back, I think because they have stopped stocking CB. Nice features are native tubeless compatibility (no spoke holes in rim= no tape/liner required) and interchangeable endcaps for QR/thru-axles - though from experience, check that you can get the rear endcaps before buying (I'm now looking at importing directly from CB, which will cost a bit in postage - but seems to be the only option as their new Australian distributor is hopeless).

[fixxed]

I weight 67Kgs so definetly a light weight. Whats the deal with the Easton haven's, are the hubs and spokes to blame or is the rim not as good as the Arch EX?

[fixxed]

Also the Cobalts are very cool looking, however I havent seen/heard much about them. Is there much difference between the Cobalt 1, 2 or 3? Same rim and then hubs and spokes change? Are they as solid as the Arch EXs?

[silentbutdeadly]

Not a fan of Stans but they are still OK. Arch or Flow on Hope or White Ind would be good but I'd prefer a cheaper Alex rim for same strength and better value.

CB Cobalts can be differentiated by two bearing rear hubs, four bearing rear hubs and carbon rims in rising order of price. Wouldn't buy another set due to new local distro being complete numpties (they also distribute Hope), local parts supply is nil and soft freehub shells.

[m@]

Think the '3' model is the sweet spot value-wise... four bearings, alloy rims, $500-odd. Have also run into issues with the new Aus distributor (and pretty unimpressed with Pushys ignoring my query after initially telling me they'd get endcaps in when I was asking prior to buying the wheelset); however will be ordering a few pedal and wheel spares direct from CB in the USA - so far they're very helpful to deal with. Hopefully with enough complaints CB will deliver a swift boot to the distro's backside as otherwise they stand to lose their Aus following pretty quickly!

Funny you should mention the freehub body - haven't previously had an issue over 1000s of Kms but removing the cassette this morning found some bedding-in. Guess I can thank the insane hills at the Hellfire Cup for that! The freehub design itself is a bit weird, with a spring coiled around the outside of the pawls like a rubber band - but works fine provided it's cleaned periodically IME.

[tubby74]

I weight 67Kgs so definetly a light weight. Whats the deal with the Easton haven's, are the hubs and spokes to blame or is the rim not as good as the Arch EX?

I would recommend against anything Easton. My hub started skipping a while ago, got it cleaned up but when it happened again the LBS opened it up and found the pawls had been destroyed, apparently not uncommon with their hubs. I tried several stores and none can get Easton parts, and Easton have a policy of not selling to public, only to stores. I am now awaiting delivery of hope/flows from merlin. I'm 100kg plus kit and ride like an elephant so I went for the heavier rim.

[bychosis]

I got some TWE wheels for my MTB. Very happy with them. Talk to the guy that runs it and tell him what you want and about how you ride, he builds them to spec.

[Jean]

WTB Frequency rims (UST compatible once it's taped up, in 26, 27.5 or 29, with a selection of widths - 19mm, 23mm & 25mm I think). Good rim in my experience. Lace them to whatever hubs you prefer. Shimano or Novatec are good inexpensive options, or there are other more expensive hub options, alluded to above.

[fixxed]

I always tend to forget about the WTB stuff, although its supposedly very good. Their KOM rim looks interesting, althought the LaserDisc seems nearly identical to the Frequency? only a slight weight difference?

[fixxed]

Also I have overlooked the DT Swiss wheels. I know they make great hubs - But they have soo many wheels to choose from it all gets confusing. Whats the deal there?

[silentbutdeadly]

Same goes for the SR Equaliser range. In fact they are very similar to the WTB Frequency.

Thing is...Alex Evo Supercomp is significantly lighter than either, rated for AM and typically cheaper than both. Makes for a heck of an XC wheel and would end up under 1500 grams all in with the right hubs. Mine are about 1550 or so.

[Jean]

I always tend to forget about the WTB stuff, although its supposedly very good. Their KOM rim looks interesting, althought the LaserDisc seems nearly identical to the Frequency? only a slight weight difference?

iFrequency = UST compatibility if you want to go that way. I don't use UST tyres with mine, but do run tubeless fine with my chosen Michelin tyres. The Laser Disc play tubeless with WTB TCS tyres (I don't know about other tubeless setups, but probably OK), but aren't UST compliant as far as I can see.

Thing is...Alex Evo Supercomp is significantly lighter than either, rated for AM and typically cheaper than both. Makes for a heck of an XC wheel and would end up under 1500 grams all in with the right hubs. Mine are about 1550 or so.

I had some inexpensive Alex rims on my last 26" wheel set (picked them up at T7 for stuff all $) and they were good to me for my XC style riding. I can't remember what model they were, but the profile was exactly the same as these in 32-spoke.

[trailgumby]

I have a set of Crests on my Scalpel 29er and find them soft and flexy for my 80kgs. Mis-time the lift over a square-edged rock of kerb height and clip it, they go out of true. The constant truing is frustrating. Not for nothing do I call myself trailgumby!

I have purchased a heavily discounted set of Arch EX hoops that will replace them in the next couple of days.

For race wheels I have gotten built up a set of LB carbon hoops laced to Hope Pro II Evo rear and Lefty front hubs for a ~300g weight saving and much improved stiffness and rolling resistance. Price of hoops was not that much more than the regular price of the Stan's rims.

[fixxed]

Well this thread has been informative. My mate keeps telling me to buy Crossmaxes as he loves them and hasnt had any problems with them, however the Arch seems like a logical choice. If anyone has any lightweight trail wheelsets or any wheels which fit the bill feel free to PM me. Or might start a WTB post. Located Melbourne preferred.

[trailgumby]

Beware CrossMax wheels. They have unpublished weight limits. For example, my CrossMax SLRs had a weight limit per the technical manual available from their distributor website of 76kg. I was 80, add 4kg for full Camelbak and another 12.2 for the bike and Iit explained why they constantly needed truing,

No mention of any such weight limit on any retail site I could find.

They did roll really well, and acceleration was brilliant, but the inner channel being really narrow (15mm?) the tyre didn't provide a lot of grip'. Loving my wider 22mm inside channel carbon rims. They spin up beautifully and are very stiff, and the tyre has a broader contact patch with the ground. 1445g for the wheelset.

[DarrylH]

My suggestion would be to go for proper tubeless wheels such as Shimano XTs. I haven't tried any of the taped tubeless wheels but have had massive problems trying to use tape on other wheels. Admittedly I was trying to use Racing Ralph tubeless ready, but by the time I had them off and on a couple of times, the tape was cactus. Crossmarks on my XT wheels sealed first go and hardly ever need a top up. The RRs had so many leaks in the sidewalls that I eventually heaved them and used Crossmarks - with not one sidewall leak.

[trailgumby]

Racing Ralph TLR sidewalls are about as airproof as a flyscreen door. Not surprised you had trouble with them. At least you didn't get out on the trail with them and find that the sidewalls are also as strong as wet toilet paper at the farthest point from the trailhead.

The "Snakeskin"version is much etter, but the sealant still needs to be liquid for them to stay properly inflated.

Tape needs to be matched to the inside width of the rim. Mustn't be too narrow.

[Phil]

Rating the Gorilla tape for sealing.

And Continentals or Maxxis. Particularly the Conti Race King Rears, the Race Sport Version seems pretty durable without going to the weight of the full TLR version, well here in WA - we don't have your shale Rocks that eat sidewalls, just lots of pea gravel

Also rating the 30mm hookless China Carbons rims.

[limetang]

American Classic Terrains. Super happy with mine, easy tubeless set up and reasonably light weight.

[lardass71]

+1 on the terrains, had mine now for 18 months, and im just on 100 kilos, noy a problem, or mavic st's. both crap all over stans, both are tubeless ready, and as i gave owned 721's and i find the crossmax st is just as strong

[Duck!]

Racing Ralph TLR sidewalls are about as airproof as a flyscreen door. Not surprised you had trouble with them. At least you didn't get out on the trail with them and find that the sidewalls are also as strong as wet toilet paper at the farthest point from the trailhead.

The "Snakeskin"version is much etter, but the sealant still needs to be liquid for them to stay properly inflated.

Tape needs to be matched to the inside width of the rim. Mustn't be too narrow.

You took the words right out of my keyboard!