School me on mtb

[human909]

I think you are overthink things to start off. Better to get out and ride and build skills then decide how you are going to roll. No need to worry about tyres and tubes to start with just use what the bike comes with and bring a spare tube.

- Cleats v flats - most mountain bikers will say flats to start. Apparently builds skill. I have no idea I continue to ride flats on mtb and clipless for road.

Definitely agree on starting on flats. Plenty of pros also use flats for very good safety reasons!

Personally I've used both and now prefer flats for safety. I've slid out or gone OTB and landed on my feet several times. Performing this trick is much harder if you have to unclip!

(Though it depends on the terrain. Doing laps of steep downhill tracks is alot different to gentle MTB terrain. I've also chosen SPDs for some rides and much prefer them in some conditions.)

[chriso_29er]

Have a look at the Maxxis icon for a good all round xc tyre. Great in dry conditions off road and roll quiet well on road. I can even keep up with a roadie if tucked in behind lol. Might need a little more meat if planning to do muddy conditions.

I will run SPD if doing road, biketrack, gravel paths, rail trails or fire trails. If going to a single track area I run flat pedals.
But I do find SPD fine on single track if I'm not challenging myself. But I'm usually pushing so like to get my feet down to assist with cornering.

[warthog1]

I think you are overthink things to start off. Better to get out and ride and build skills then decide how you are going to roll. No need to worry about tyres and tubes to start with just use what the bike comes with and bring a spare tube.

- Cleats v flats - most mountain bikers will say flats to start. Apparently builds skill. I have no idea I continue to ride flats on mtb and clipless for road.

Definitely agree on starting on flats. Plenty of pros also use flats for very good safety reasons!

Personally I've used both and now prefer flats for safety. I've slid out or gone OTB and landed on my feet several times. Performing this trick is much harder if you have to unclip!

(Though it depends on the terrain. Doing laps of steep downhill tracks is alot different to gentle MTB terrain. I've also chosen SPDs for some rides and much prefer them in some conditions.)

Thanks H
I'm an experiential learner unfortunately and I love clipless pedals after years of using them on the roadie.
Maybe those pedals that can be used as both?
I have done a bit of maniac dirt bike riding on my yz250 in my younger days, does that count?

I'll go with the consensus of using tubes. I can just see myself running late for work and getting covered in a cursing, swearing sealant covered mess whilst rushing to fix a puncture

[warthog1]

Have a look at the Maxxis icon for a good all round xc tyre. Great in dry conditions off road and roll quiet well on road. I can even keep up with a roadie if tucked in behind lol. Might need a little more meat if planning to do muddy conditions.

I will run SPD if doing road, biketrack, gravel paths, rail trails or fire trails. If going to a single track area I run flat pedals.
But I do find SPD fine on single track if I'm not challenging myself. But I'm usually pushing so like to get my feet down to assist with cornering.

Thanks Chriso.
I think as an old man (47) I won't be pushing as hard.
I might try something like this;


Not sure on shoes yet.
I'll check out those tyres.

[Calvin27]

I'm an experiential learner unfortunately and I love clipless pedals after years of using them on the roadie.
Maybe those pedals that can be used as both?
I have done a bit of maniac dirt bike riding on my yz250 in my younger days, does that count?

I'll go with the consensus of using tubes. I can just see myself running late for work and getting covered in a cursing, swearing sealant covered mess whilst rushing to fix a puncture

Forget about the crossover pedals. They are more for path and touring riding. They will not keep it together in the sketchy stuff. If you have to get clipless, then just get normal spd double sided with no cage.

I try to remain impartial but I'm with the camp that says you should start MTB on flat pedals. Look for something with decent pins firstly, a wide platform and slimline is also nice as well. Something I recommend is Nukeproof electron for about $50. Just remember to try keep them clear of your shins - you can tell a mountainbiker by the condition of their shins - usually scuffed and cut up plenty. Pair them with a pair of flat hard soled shoes and away you go. Something like skate shoes should be plenty although I have also ridden with hiking boots and tennis shoes.

You are half way there if you've done dirt biking. Should be able to pick it up fast. The only gap would probably be technical climbing which even seasoned riders still struggle with.

[warthog1]

I'm an experiential learner unfortunately and I love clipless pedals after years of using them on the roadie.
Maybe those pedals that can be used as both?
I have done a bit of maniac dirt bike riding on my yz250 in my younger days, does that count?

I'll go with the consensus of using tubes. I can just see myself running late for work and getting covered in a cursing, swearing sealant covered mess whilst rushing to fix a puncture

Forget about the crossover pedals. They are more for path and touring riding. They will not keep it together in the sketchy stuff. If you have to get clipless, then just get normal spd double sided with no cage.

I try to remain impartial but I'm with the camp that says you should start MTB on flat pedals. Look for something with decent pins firstly, a wide platform and slimline is also nice as well. Something I recommend is Nukeproof electron for about $50. Just remember to try keep them clear of your shins - you can tell a mountainbiker by the condition of their shins - usually scuffed and cut up plenty. Pair them with a pair of flat hard soled shoes and away you go. Something like skate shoes should be plenty although I have also ridden with hiking boots and tennis shoes.

You are half way there if you've done dirt biking. Should be able to pick it up fast. The only gap would probably be technical climbing which even seasoned riders still struggle with.

Thanks.
It came with good enough flatties.
Bugg3r it I'll get the spd's and go back to flatties once I've broken a collar bone.

[Mulger bill]

Dirtbike history...
A big help but remember you can't bypass traction loss with more revs

It will have taught you how to use body weight to maintain that traction and, most importantly, weight the front wheel into and through corners. Remember if you put a foot out, it goes forward and not to the side.

Last tip, look at where you want to go. Note obstacles and quickly move on to finding the line. Look at that stinking babyhead rock in the trail and you will hit it. Personal and rather painful experience I can laugh about, now

[Calvin27]

Bugg3r it I'll get the spd's and go back to flatties once I've broken a collar bone.

Pfft, the collar bone is a consumable in dirt world.

[warthog1]

Dirtbike history...
A big help but remember you can't bypass traction loss with more revs

It will have taught you how to use body weight to maintain that traction and, most importantly, weight the front wheel into and through corners. Remember if you put a foot out, it goes forward and not to the side.

Last tip, look at where you want to go. Note obstacles and quickly move on to finding the line. Look at that stinking babyhead rock in the trail and you will hit it. Personal and rather painful experience I can laugh about, now

I've gotten older and decidedly more mortal as the years have gone by.
I'm hanging out to get off road but I'll be pretty sedate most likely.

[warthog1]

Bugg3r it I'll get the spd's and go back to flatties once I've broken a collar bone.

Pfft, the collar bone is a consumable in dirt world.

Lucky I've got long service and a fair bit of sick leave accumulated then.
The outgoings will continue regardless of the income or lack thereof.

[trailgumby]

Good advice on the pedals. The DMR V12 is worth looking at.

However, I disagree on using any old shoe. Tacky-soled MTB and DH -specific shoes are much better. Wear soccer shin-pads if you have them

As for collarbones being a consumable, it sounds like someone is doing it wrong. Proper riding "shape" when cornering gives you a much better chance of getting a hand down to reduce the impact.

And that reminds me - you need to invest in a set of full-finger gloves, warty.

If you want to be politically incorrect, I notice Bunnings has a great range of safety gloves that are built very similary to the exxy MTB-specific brands for a fraction of the price.

[trailgumby]

Great riding tips here:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBvLo0 ... S9mW0Sf3_w

And I spent some time last weekend at skills school learning how to corner properly on a mtb, like this:



Yeah, I'm a slow learner

[warthog1]

If you want to be politically incorrect, I notice Bunnings has a great range of safety gloves that are built very similary to the exxy MTB-specific brands for a fraction of the price.

I like it

[warthog1]

Great riding tips here:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBvLo0 ... S9mW0Sf3_w

And I spent some time last weekend at skills school learning how to corner properly on a mtb, like this:



Yeah, I'm a slow learner

Thanks
I am learning heaps. Still haven't ridden the sucker yet

[trailgumby]

Still haven't ridden the sucker yet

Ahem!

[mitzikatzi]

An Aldi mountain bike has a Suntour XCM fork or "pogo stick of death" In my experience it will limit the difficulty of the terrain you can ride.

I like clipless pedals they make me ride a section because I am clipped in. I can not be indecisive and have to ride the section instead of thinking foot down or ride and then fall off.

[rangersac]

My 2 cents:

- Run tubes, you are hardly going to be tackling crazy terrain on the Aldi machine, so I wouldn't bother with the expense of rim tape, valves, sealant and good quality sidewall tyres, plus the setup hassle. Tyres wise I recommend a Conti X-King on the back and Mountain King on the front combo. No need for Protection sidewalls if you are running tubes, the standard tyres are pretty tough rubber and cheap online. Maxxis Ignitor are also a good all rounder, although they tend to clog if the terrain is sticky.

- You're used to clipless, go with that. Again you aren't going to be tackling massive terrain on the Aldi special, so I wouldn't bother with the expense of flats and decent shoes yet, and you're well beyond the clipstack stage if you've been using them for a while. Clipless are nice for security when the going gets rough as you control the bike a lot with your feet. Get out there and ride, the bike handling skills will come. Just go for a standard double sided pedal (M525 or something like that) as they will clean quicker when it's muddy (I may have a spare set, PM if you want some cheap used ones). Just get a budget set of shoes, they flex more which is handy as you may do a reasonable amount of walking on a MTB if you get on some reasonable trails.

- Lube: R&R gold fine for when it's dry, otherwise a wet lube (I use Finish Line) or you'll be getting plenty of chain suck. Be prepared to be cleaning the drivetrain pretty often otherwise you'll wear through it quickly. No need to be too fastidious though, I use a chain scrubber with some dilute dishwashing liquid to get rid of the mud and crap, then just wipe and relube after most rides (I'm often riding through wet terrain).

[Calvin27]

An Aldi mountain bike has a Suntour XCM fork or "pogo stick of death" In my experience it will limit the difficulty of the terrain you can ride.

I remember when everyone used to ride lysterfield with kmart bikes. I rekon up to harder blue runs will be fine. We tend to get fixated on gear and air forks are nice, but it wasn't that long ago when people rode modified road bikes on the dirt. Liek they say with hardtails, having less suspension (or worse suspension) will actually build your skills.

[bychosis]

Not sure if it's been mentioned above anywhere. Don't run your tyres too hard. I ran 45psi for years to prevent pinch flats, but it was a revelation when I dropped it back to 30-35psi (tubed).

I prefer SPDs on my MTB for cross country style riding, maybe different if I was into DH or big jumps and the roughest trails I could find. SPDs are fine for general riding, and may give you more confidence if ou are used to being clipped in.

By the sounds of it you aren't going for any speed records or gap jumps etc so just enjoy what you have bought and learn how off road riding works. Helmet, pair of gloves, spare tube and a pump is all you need to have some fun. But, like any other cycling, be aware of the bug. You could end up upgrading stuff in the very near future.

[warthog1]

Still haven't ridden the sucker yet

Ahem!

Unauthorised n+1 purchase
It's in the storeroom at work whilst I work on my timing and muster my courage.

[Calvin27]

Not sure if it's been mentioned above anywhere. Don't run your tyres too hard. I ran 45psi for years to prevent pinch flats, but it was a revelation when I dropped it back to 30-35psi (tubed).

But, like any other cycling, be aware of the bug. You could end up upgrading stuff in the very near future.

+1000 on the tyres. I run 28psi on 29x2.2 @95kg total weight (me + bike + other stuff).

Also on the bug, imo mountain bike upgrades are far more noticable than road ones!

*Edit: Schooling Warthog is no fun. You are too engaging and sensible. Other roadies offer so much more resistance and entertainment when crossing over . Must be your dirtbike pedigree.

[warthog1]

My 2 cents:

- Run tubes, you are hardly going to be tackling crazy terrain on the Aldi machine, so I wouldn't bother with the expense of rim tape, valves, sealant and good quality sidewall tyres, plus the setup hassle. Tyres wise I recommend a Conti X-King on the back and Mountain King on the front combo. No need for Protection sidewalls if you are running tubes, the standard tyres are pretty tough rubber and cheap online. Maxxis Ignitor are also a good all rounder, although they tend to clog if the terrain is sticky.

- You're used to clipless, go with that. Again you aren't going to be tackling massive terrain on the Aldi special, so I wouldn't bother with the expense of flats and decent shoes yet, and you're well beyond the clipstack stage if you've been using them for a while. Clipless are nice for security when the going gets rough as you control the bike a lot with your feet. Get out there and ride, the bike handling skills will come. Just go for a standard double sided pedal (M525 or something like that) as they will clean quicker when it's muddy (I may have a spare set, PM if you want some cheap used ones). Just get a budget set of shoes, they flex more which is handy as you may do a reasonable amount of walking on a MTB if you get on some reasonable trails.

- Lube: R&R gold fine for when it's dry, otherwise a wet lube (I use Finish Line) or you'll be getting plenty of chain suck. Be prepared to be cleaning the drivetrain pretty often otherwise you'll wear through it quickly. No need to be too fastidious though, I use a chain scrubber with some dilute dishwashing liquid to get rid of the mud and crap, then just wipe and relube after most rides (I'm often riding through wet terrain).

Cheers. I won't be over capitalising.
If I get the bug I might get upgradeitis and be searching the second hand sites.
For now I just plan on riding it to work via the forest. It will be nice to get away from cars.

[warthog1]

Not sure if it's been mentioned above anywhere. Don't run your tyres too hard. I ran 45psi for years to prevent pinch flats, but it was a revelation when I dropped it back to 30-35psi (tubed).

But, like any other cycling, be aware of the bug. You could end up upgrading stuff in the very near future.

+1000 on the tyres. I run 28psi on 29x2.2 @95kg total weight (me + bike + other stuff).

Also on the bug, imo mountain bike upgrades are far more noticable than road ones!

*Edit: Schooling Warthog is no fun. You are too engaging and sensible. Other roadies offer so much more resistance and entertainment when crossing over . Must be your dirtbike pedigree.

Thanks fellas.
I will be about the same weight and was wondering about pressures. Cheers

[bychosis]

For now I just plan on riding it to work via the forest. It will be nice to get away from cars.

That sounds like the perfect introduction to MTB and a decent use for sounds to be very good value for money.

[Duck!]

LUBE:

Use lubeS appropriate for the conditions; wet for wet, dry for dry. Wet lubes create a water-repellent barrier on the chain, so when riding in wet conditions water will tend to carry off any dirt as it falls off the chain, however in dry weather it will attract a lot of grit. In dry weather a wax lube will stay on well enough, but will tend to wash off in the wet, then the dirt gets in the chain & does its damage.

TYRES:

There is no do-everything tyre, but some a better all-rounders than others. Generally for hard surfaces a fine tread is better, softer/wetter/looser surfaces need bigger, wider-spaced tread blocks. Clay will want both, depending on whether it's wet or dry.... Keep the pressure around the bottom end of the manufacturer-recommended range for starters, then gradually drop it until you start getting pinch flats. Run the rear harder than the front