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mikesbytes
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Postby mikesbytes » Tue Jan 30, 2007 5:28 pm

commi wrote:from now i'll ride on the 42 and go from there
The fashion nowdays is to use lower gears and spin, but its really upto the individual. For example, Ulrich goes up hills in quite a big gear and he ain't slow.

Me, I've tried various gears and cadiences and found that personally theres pros and cons. When I get tired legs, I'll change my cadience to kind of rest the legs from that type of stress by using them differently.

The rings can be used quite effectively for powering over hills. Put it in the big ring and accelerate a little just prior to the hill, hold the gear on the hill and stand up on the pedals, using your back and arms to apply more force to the pedals. When (if) the hill starts to win, hit the front derailier leaver and drop from the 52 to the 42, sit down and spin hard. You may also consider going up a gear (right to a smaller one) at the same time. BTW, this is just one of many methods of taming hills and wont suit everyone and certainly not every hill.
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?

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Mulger bill
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Postby Mulger bill » Tue Jan 30, 2007 9:17 pm

You'll find that the 24 inch gear will get you over just about any hill :wink:

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McPete
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Postby McPete » Tue Jan 30, 2007 9:46 pm

I attack hills like this:
I try to hit them with as much speed as I can, and I keep pedalling untill I start to feel sizeable resistance in the pedals, then drop down gears and pedal like mad untill I'm in low-1st or I'm over the hill. I do that because I know that, to use an automotive term, I'm not very torquey, because I'm skinny little bloke.

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Postby JackHenry » Tue Jan 30, 2007 9:47 pm

mikesbytes wrote: When (if) the hill starts to win, hit the front derailier leaver and drop from the 52 to the 42, sit down and spin hard.
I'd sit down BEFORE changing gears if I was you. They don't like to be changed under too much load. Many a testicle has met crossbar changing gears standing up.

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mikesbytes
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Postby mikesbytes » Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:09 pm

JackHenry wrote:
mikesbytes wrote: When (if) the hill starts to win, hit the front derailier leaver and drop from the 52 to the 42, sit down and spin hard.
I'd sit down BEFORE changing gears if I was you. They don't like to be changed under too much load. Many a testicle has met crossbar changing gears standing up.
Yes I didn't word that well.
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?

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tuco
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Postby tuco » Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:44 pm

Interesting how the thread drifted from bike computers to how to hill climb.

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Postby pugsly » Fri Feb 02, 2007 1:15 am

tuco wrote:Interesting how the thread drifted from bike computers to how to hill climb.
Having read the thread I think I'll be making my first upgrade in the next week or so - my bike computer doesn't do cadence, and from what I've read, it looks like a good idea.

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Postby cludence » Fri Feb 02, 2007 1:21 am

I am still getting the hang of damm hills. I hate them at the moment! Determined to master them though. -Just not ones the size you would ride up Mike. You can have those ones!

Karen.

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pugsly
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Postby pugsly » Fri Feb 02, 2007 1:23 am

I've got no choice around here. I live on the side of a hill, and the bastards are everywhere.
For now I walk up the steepest ones. But only after getting as much speed up on the downslope of the previous hill.
Sometimes it gets me a ways, sometimes not.

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Postby cludence » Fri Feb 02, 2007 1:27 am

Luckily I have choices around here so I can dodge them but can't avoid them forever!

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Postby sogood » Fri Feb 02, 2007 6:43 am

McPete wrote:I do that because I know that, to use an automotive term, I'm not very torquey, because I'm skinny little bloke.
Not sure that is right. Pro climbing specialists are typically skinny little blokes. Climbing should be your specialty, and one area that you may excel in. You just have to work on it and know mentally that you have a major advantage here.
Bianchi, Ridley, Tern, Montague and All things Apple :)
RK wrote:And that is Wikipedia - I can write my own definition.

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Postby sogood » Fri Feb 02, 2007 6:45 am

JackHenry wrote:I'd sit down BEFORE changing gears if I was you. They don't like to be changed under too much load. Many a testicle has met crossbar changing gears standing up.
The latest 10 speed gears from Campag and Shimano seemed to have this issue largely solved. It's still noisy and will induce more wear, but perfectly doable.
Bianchi, Ridley, Tern, Montague and All things Apple :)
RK wrote:And that is Wikipedia - I can write my own definition.

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Postby sogood » Fri Feb 02, 2007 6:48 am

Funny thing about hills, you hate them but after riding them, you seek for more. I am starting to postulate that hills bring out more endorphins to make you an addict and then the mental satisfaction gives you a sense of immediate achievement.

Just look around, so many cyclists openly state that they love hills. :shock:
Bianchi, Ridley, Tern, Montague and All things Apple :)
RK wrote:And that is Wikipedia - I can write my own definition.

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Postby cludence » Fri Feb 02, 2007 6:56 am

I know there are heaps of people who like hills. I am getting better with them. -Simple case of improving my fitness and strength so I can face them as a challenge instead of dreading them and avoiding them. Got a bit to go yet!

Karen.

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Postby sogood » Fri Feb 02, 2007 8:05 am

I don't think hills will ever not be a challenge. When you are stronger, you'll just ride faster up that same hill, causing the same amount of pain.

I remember years ago when I took a heavy MTB up the Lilyfield Rd hill. I swore that I'll never tackle that one again. But now, I face the same hill every second day, but on a much lighter road bike. It's still painful but more bearable.

Yep, improving fitness and strength definitely helps.
Bianchi, Ridley, Tern, Montague and All things Apple :)
RK wrote:And that is Wikipedia - I can write my own definition.

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commi
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Postby commi » Fri Feb 02, 2007 9:43 am

Thanks Tuco and Europa for the cadence advice!! (on page 2)

After a couple days using the middle wheel, I've increased my cadence to between 80 and 90 without any more effort. If anything, its less effort.

Such a simple cycling technique makes such a difference. I've learnt so much in the few weeks I've been a forum member.

And to think my friend called me a forum geek.

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Postby tinstaafl » Fri Feb 02, 2007 4:38 pm

mikesbytes wrote:The rings can be used quite effectively for powering over hills. Put it in the big ring and accelerate a little just prior to the hill, hold the gear on the hill and stand up on the pedals, using your back and arms to apply more force to the pedals. When (if) the hill starts to win, hit the front derailier leaver and drop from the 52 to the 42, sit down and spin hard. You may also consider going up a gear (right to a smaller one) at the same time. BTW, this is just one of many methods of taming hills and wont suit everyone and certainly not every hill.
That's my favoured method. I find hills to be an attute thing. I just accept that I am going slower and working harder at the same time. Sort of like PAYE Tax payers or the poor buggers doing all the receipts for GST.

Robert

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Postby beauyboy » Fri Feb 02, 2007 6:34 pm

It is true as you get fitter hills do not get any easier you just get faster. The last climb on my way to tafe is Wynnam Rd up to Gallaways Hill so i can ride the ridge across to tafe. This is not a particually bad hill just a long drag, After riding it for a year i just stay in the normal gear now and attack it standing up.

Donald
BCC give us some more bikeways fore safe travel!!!!
Upgrade the NCL now QR!!!!!!
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sogood
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Postby sogood » Fri Feb 02, 2007 7:37 pm

beauyboy wrote:...After riding it for a year i just stay in the normal gear now and attack it standing up.
Yep, ATTACK is the word!!!
Bianchi, Ridley, Tern, Montague and All things Apple :)
RK wrote:And that is Wikipedia - I can write my own definition.

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Postby fabs » Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:48 am

Just for the record I ended up buying a "Topeak 140" wich includes the cadence function. Found the unit gives me all the info I need for my rides.
Last edited by fabs on Fri Mar 02, 2007 12:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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europa
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Postby europa » Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:59 am

fabs wrote:Just for the record I ended up buying a "Topeak 140" wich includes the cadence function. Found the unit spot on for my rides.
What? It's leaking and leaves a line of spots behind you? :D

Come on. Where's the road test?

Richard

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Postby MichaelB » Fri Mar 02, 2007 5:03 pm

Have just read through most of this, and am finding the cadence bizzo probably the most useful thing lately. I have tried to apply it in my recent rides and I think I am getting the hang of it.

My current computer doesn't have the cadence (Sigma BC1106), but basically, think that when I get the new bike, I will be on the lookout for a wireless one with cadence count.

I like the idea of the backlight (most of my riding is done at o'dark o'clock) and the Sigma that I have now is very readable.

Apart from the Sigma BC1606L DTS, is there any others that people would recommend ?

Cheers

Michael B

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Postby europa » Fri Mar 02, 2007 5:08 pm

MichaelB wrote:Apart from the Sigma BC1606L DTS, is there any others that people would recommend ?
Polar CS200cad - buy the best mate :D

Seriously, I own one and you're welcome to view it anytime. I highly recommend it for useability, functionality and waterproofness (?).

Richard

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Postby MichaelB » Fri Mar 02, 2007 5:10 pm

europa wrote:
MichaelB wrote:Apart from the Sigma BC1606L DTS, is there any others that people would recommend ?
Polar CS200cad - buy the best mate :D

Seriously, I own one and you're welcome to view it anytime. I highly recommend it for useability, functionality and waterproofness (?).

Richard
Typical cost ??

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Postby tuco » Fri Mar 02, 2007 5:12 pm

MichaelB wrote: Apart from the Sigma BC1606L DTS, is there any others that people would recommend ?

Cheers

Michael B
Only ever used the Shimano Flightdeck. Not cheap from shops but I got mine cheap on ebay (new - still in the box).

I find the calculated cadence excellent because I can see it's high when going down hill and adjust my gears accordingly before starting to pedal hard.

Also the buttons are built into the hoods (STI) so my hands can stay on the handle bars.

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