Fastest puncture resistant tyres

[Ropecharmer]

Another vote for GP4000s. The current set have 5,500 on them with only one puncture each. Starting to show hair on the sidewalls, but wont die. 90% road, 10% indoor trainer.

[SheikYerbouti]

3800 puncture free km's on my last set of Vredestein Fortezza Tricomp's. Very happy with them. Want to try them in 25mm next. Been on 23's so far.

How do they roll? Well, or are they sluggish? Looking at a pair of 25s so if anyone has feedback on them it'd be good

[MattyP]

3800 puncture free km's on my last set of Vredestein Fortezza Tricomp's. Very happy with them. Want to try them in 25mm next. Been on 23's so far.

How do they roll? Well, or are they sluggish? Looking at a pair of 25s so if anyone has feedback on them it'd be good

I use them for everything - commuting, weekend rides & longer participation events (did the MAD ride over 105km on them last Sunday). Happy with how they roll in all circumstances.

[singlespeedscott]

Challenge Parigi-Roubaix.

The first generation of hand glued ones where a little delicate. The second generation are vulcanized and as such are a bit tougher. Having said that I have a first gen on my bike that has done 3000km and hasn't had a puncture yet, that includes a few offroad adventures too.

Being a fatter tyre that is built the same way as Challenge singles I can run them at low pressures. 65psi in the front and 85 in the rear. As such they are unbelievably comfortable with no loss of speed and the best grip I have experienced in the rain and on high speed descents.

[singlespeedscott]

Challenge Parigi-Roubaix.

The first generation of hand glued ones where a little delicate. The second generation are vulcanized and as such are a bit tougher. Having said that I have a first gen on my bike that has done 3000km and hasn't had a puncture yet, that includes a few offroad adventures too.

Being a fatter tyre that is built the same way as Challenge singles I can run them at low pressures. 65psi in the front and 85 in the rear. As such they are unbelievably comfortable with no loss of speed and the best grip I have experienced in the rain and on high speed descents.

I put the hoo doo on myself. This morning I got a pinch flat after smacking hard into a pothole when I was to busy yacking instead of watching where I was going

[daft1024]

Opening up an old thread here.

I run Maxxis Re-fuse 28's as general road tyres and while they have proven to be very reliable I'm wondering if I could give something a bit sportier a crack.

I've been thinking about giving the GP4000S ii a crack for a few upcoming charity rides (100+). Basically I was thinking about getting something that would make it easier to maintain a constant speed over a longer distance. I was initially thinking about running 25's...

The question I have is about sizing. This page seems to suggest that the 28's have a lower rolling resistance than the 25's?

I'm unlikely to notice the 100 odd grams difference in weight between the 25's and 28's, but I've read that air resistance makes a difference...

So what are your thoughts on the best balance of easy rolling - 25's or 28's?

It's just I can't imagine that there would be any noticeable air resistance difference between the 25's and 28's considering I don't ride in an aero position.

If it makes any difference they will run on 23mm external width rims on a disc equipped cyclocross bike.

[singlespeedscott]

Opening up an old thread here.

I run Maxxis Re-fuse 28's as general road tyres and while they have proven to be very reliable I'm wondering if I could give something a bit sportier a crack.

I've been thinking about giving the GP4000S ii a crack for a few upcoming charity rides (100+). Basically I was thinking about getting something that would make it easier to maintain a constant speed over a longer distance. I was initially thinking about running 25's...

The question I have is about sizing. This page seems to suggest that the 28's have a lower rolling resistance than the 25's?

I'm unlikely to notice the 100 odd grams difference in weight between the 25's and 28's, but I've read that air resistance makes a difference...

So what are your thoughts on the best balance of easy rolling - 25's or 28's?

It's just I can't imagine that there would be any noticeable air resistance difference between the 25's and 28's considering I don't ride in an aero position.

If it makes any difference they will run on 23mm external width rims on a disc equipped cyclocross bike.

When you start worrying about aero you need to have a good hard look at yourself. Are you at an ideal weight for your height? What's your position like on the bike? Can you average over 30kmhr solo for more than a couple of hours? If you answer no to any of these I would not be concerning yourself with aero and would focus more on lowering rolling resistance and increasing comfort.

[Thoglette]

It's just I can't imagine that there would be any noticeable air resistance difference between the 25's and 28's considering I don't ride in an aero position.

If it makes any difference they will run on 23mm external width rims on a disc equipped cyclocross bike.

Damn right you won't notice the air drag. Without retyping a few other threads (eg. This one), I'm sold on 28 to 32mm tyres for "real" roads, ridden regularly.

[daft1024]

When you start worrying about aero you need to have a good hard look at yourself. Are you at an ideal weight for your height? What's your position like on the bike? Can you average over 30kmhr solo for more than a couple of hours? If you answer no to any of these I would not be concerning yourself with aero and would focus more on lowering rolling resistance and increasing comfort.

Yeah that's kinda what I thought. I'm close to the magic 30 solo average but I have found it hard in traffic. With a few longer charity rides coming up with closed roads I thought this might be a good opportunity to try and knock out a smooth quick one... Hence the interest in trying some "quicker" tyres..

Damn right you won't notice the air drag. Without retyping a few other threads (eg. This one), I'm sold on 28 to 32mm tyres for "real" roads, ridden regularly.

Yeah I'm pretty sold on the re-fuse 28's for general duties they have handled rough conditions really well and they are bloody cheap - just wasn't sure if 25s in a low rolling resistance tyre like the GP4000S would be better suited to try and do some quick smooth rides. It seems like their's not much in it either way

[battler2]

i ordered some schwalbe marathon pluses (2x pairs of 25's and 28's)

considering ordering some refuses instead. they are lighter, but is the puncture resistance just as good? how about wear time?

[ldrcycles]

The last set of refuses i went through lasted about 3500kms, which is double what any other tyre has lasted for me. Wore the rear down to the bare canvas (or whatever it is) without a single puncture.

[singlespeedscott]

I have no belief in puncture resistance. Your going to get one regardless of the tyre. I thin piece of Kevlar is going to do squat. I prefer tyres that ride nicely with the minimum of effort.

[Drizt]

4000s constant punctures for me. 4 seasons ride exactly the same, just without the punctures.

[queequeg]

i ordered some schwalbe marathon pluses (2x pairs of 25's and 28's)

considering ordering some refuses instead. they are lighter, but is the puncture resistance just as good? how about wear time?

On my 28mm SMPs, Starting with two brand new tyres I will get around 10,000 on the rear before it is time to replace. At that point I move the front tyre to the rear and put the new one on the front. Repeating this process I get up to 20,000km from the first and subsequent tyres that rotate through from the front.
I've just done that swap, so my front is at 1400km and my rear is at 11,000km.
The M2 is tearing up tyres quicker than pre-M2. My previous record for a front to rear rotation was 25,000km.

[queequeg]

The last set of refuses i went through lasted about 3500kms, which is double what any other tyre has lasted for me. Wore the rear down to the bare canvas (or whatever it is) without a single puncture.

Glad I don't use those...I'd be replacing tyres every 2 months!

[Drizt]

Glad I don't use those...I'd be replacing tyres every 2 months!

Tyres are pocket change... I change mine ever 3-4 months.

[queequeg]

Glad I don't use those...I'd be replacing tyres every 2 months!

Tyres are pocket change... I change mine ever 3-4 months.

I must be in the wrong job.

[Thoglette]

I must be in the wrong job.

Maxxis Refuse and Schwalbe Marathon are at rather different price points - but I can still buy either for less than the cost of filling the car's fuel tank.

[Drizt]

Glad I don't use those...I'd be replacing tyres every 2 months!

Tyres are pocket change... I change mine ever 3-4 months.

I must be in the wrong job.

4 seasons $50 each. Usually have 3-4 sets ready to go

[queequeg]

I must be in the wrong job.

4 seasons $50 each. Usually have 3-4 sets ready to go

4 x SMPs (AT) $38 each gets me through almost 2 years.
At $50 per tyre on a four seasons I'd be doing $600 a year on rubber. Ouch. That's $600 less to Spend on other bike goodies

[daft1024]

i ordered some schwalbe marathon pluses (2x pairs of 25's and 28's)

considering ordering some refuses instead. they are lighter, but is the puncture resistance just as good? how about wear time?

I don't know about the marathons but I've been surprised with the re-fuses. The bike came with them when I got it second hand. The rear was a bit tired with a few cuts etc. I bought a new rear for something cheap like $25 thinking I want a spare for when the old rear died. Since then I've done probably around 1500 km's off road (mostly fire trail and a small about of single), and a few thousand of road rides since then and its still got some life. Amazingly I haven't had a single puncture which I'm putting down to luck, but I fully expected them to be ripped badly by now. Pretty good value for $25 ish a pop

[ldrcycles]

The last set of refuses i went through lasted about 3500kms, which is double what any other tyre has lasted for me. Wore the rear down to the bare canvas (or whatever it is) without a single puncture.

Glad I don't use those...I'd be replacing tyres every 2 months!

I don't know if it's the super coarse chip bitumen i usually ride on, or the way i stomp on the pedals but my tyres get torn to pieces at a great rate of knots, especially the rear.

[spider1974]

My friend rides GP4000s (hasn't moved to series 2) I ride Michelin pro race 4 and Vittoria CG open pave (25mm) - and we both do reallty well....however we both check the tyres after the rides for glass shards and replace them regularly - meaning we don't wear em down to the point where they puncture easily, the theory being a new tyre at $50 bought a month early will save $10 or $20 in tubes (plus more with canisters).

so perhaps tyre maintenance and replacement is the key?