Power Meter !!

[TZ2102]

Hi Guys,

I want a power meter. I'll never be a professional but I do enjoy training and seeing improvement. I am a student so I also want to keep a check on the expenditure.
I think my options are as follows
- Power Tap Rear Wheel (G3)
---Normal Alloy Wheel (G3 or something) for about 900AUD
--- Reynolds 81mm Carbon Tubular I can get for about 1250 AUD (but I can only do this when I go to the US in a month) - worried about durability and tubular punctures but it is a very good price I understand which is what is drawing me in
- Power2Max (heard they were pretty good (the new ones)) I think its about $900-1000 for the base model
- Stages (not so keen because only the left foot)
- Wait for Precision 4iii (http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2014/09/4iii ... ision.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
- 2nd hand? Powertap?
Keen to get some advice.

Cheers,
TZ

EDIT: I am on a 1.5k bike so when I get a proper job after uni will probably upgrade and I it would be good if I can take the power meter with me...I think for all of these you can.

[petal665]

Unless you have a power based training program, (which you stick to), you DO NOT NEED A POWER METER. Unless you have a power based training program and do the associated testing you won't notice 'improvement' by just looking at numbers.

[apollocreed]

while I don't have any experience with power meters, I think that 'looking at numbers' can absolutely help training. Whether it's by yourself or a coached training schedule.

Knowing where you're fastest and where you're slowest provides you with focus points on improvement.

By comparing regular data from rides you can also determine if your training is working in the right way or not

to the OP, I would love a power meter. However, it's worth thinking whether you can justify it or not? Assuming you've got a bit of time at uni still, may be worth saving now, riding your bike as much as you can and as hard as you can (with a GPS or strava or whatever to satisfy the data and numbers urge) and when you upgrade to a decent bike you can incorporate the cost of a power meter into it

[petal665]

Knowing where you're fastest and where you're slowest provides you with focus points on improvement.

That can be done with a $20 wire bike computer.

[TZ2102]

....No it can't because of winds, different gradients etc. The only measure that really matters is power. Anyways the focus of my question was which one...

[Alex Simmons/RST]

Powertap probably most suitable for you as you can just take the wheel with you bike to bike. Simple. With crank based meters that's not hard either but can be trickier if your new bike uses a different bottom bracket standard.

There will always be an as yet unproven new power meter model on the horizon. My advice is to stick with proven models that have service and backup support in place.

I updated my "Which Power Meter?" blog post the other day:
http://alex-cycle.blogspot.com.au/2013/ ... meter.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Alex Simmons/RST]

Unless you have a power based training program, (which you stick to), you DO NOT NEED A POWER METER. Unless you have a power based training program and do the associated testing you won't notice 'improvement' by just looking at numbers.

No one NEEDS a power meter and the OP didn't say they did need one.

They said they wanted one, and came here looking for advice on models suitable for them.

As for assessing improvement and the process and what one can use a power meter for, here's a hint: following a training plan is only one of many dozens of things one can usefully use it for.

As for not noticing improvement, quite the contrary. Once you become reasonably fit, the gains get smaller and power becomes a far more reliable means to assess whether you're making fitness progress, changes that would not be discernible via other means.

[Xplora]

USED. Wired SRM or older wireless Quarq if you're precious about that stuff, they have come up for 600 bucks, which is much cheaper than everything you mentioned. You want to upgrade your bike? You might need to upgrade your PM with it. Reality is that you need good quality data, and you can get it, however, you might not get the latest and greatest. Power isn't a poor man's game. Reality is that I have heavily overcapitalised with my SRM, but I wanted the best data possible. No point complaining about the cost...

[petal665]

My guess is that the number of people out there who WANT or own a power meter and have never/don't know how to perform or even what is an FTP test would be greater than 50%, most likely much higher.

My experience is that Stages reads low, Quarqs are more reliable that they used to be, and that Powertaps seem to die a lot. I would never buy a 2nd hand power meter without some form of warranty backup.

[TZ2102]

^ Petal, please can we keep it on topic - if you want to talk about whether people should have a power meter or not please make your own thread.

[kb]

Cool. Off-topic guessing games...

[CXCommuter]

Personally, I think carbon handlebars are over rated

[TZ2102]

Thanks Alex,

out of the 2 powertap wheels which do you suggest...what is the approximate cost of maintenance regarding tubulars...e.g. for clinchers ~a puncture 2 months is like $50 year + maybe a set of tyres so a total of 130$ p.a.

[petal665]

I get 5/10 flats on tubs per year, riding them full time. Cost depends on how expensive a tubular you buy.

[TZ2102]

Well what would be the equivalent gp4000s and what is the cheapest/most economical one?

Ride 6-10 hours a week, maybe more in the holidays

[toolonglegs]

I have a G3 11speed on a Kinlin 38mm clincher rim... It has been very reliable.
Cost me $600 Au new 9 months ago ... New eBay hub and then wheel build.
I would go the clincher to start with ... Less hassle by far.
Personally I don't run my power meter every ride ... Mainly on my TT bike for the moment. Without it I wouldn't have noticed the HUGE power difference between my road bike and TT bike ( 360w vs 300w for 20m! ) ... My puzzle has been working out how to get the power up at least 10% while still staying aero

[Alex Simmons/RST]

Thanks Alex,

out of the 2 powertap wheels which do you suggest...what is the approximate cost of maintenance regarding tubulars...e.g. for clinchers ~a puncture 2 months is like $50 year + maybe a set of tyres so a total of 130$ p.a.

That's very much dependent on where and how much you ride, but for convenience I'd stick with clincher rims. Easier to swap over tyres when you want and fix out on the road with a spare tube and CO2 inflator. I'd really only bother with tubs for racing.

Powertap have sent me two of their clincher wheelsets to use for aerodynamics testing - one set DT Swiss rims and the other carbon ENVE deeper section wheelset.

[TZ2102]

are the DT Swiss RR 585 a decent rim for it? are they better than the standard G3 Alloy wheel or Velocity Chukker?

[Alex Simmons/RST]

are the DT Swiss RR 585 a decent rim for it? are they better than the standard G3 Alloy wheel or Velocity Chukker?

Suggest talking with a wheel builder who can give sound advice on a wheel build suitable for you and your needs. I only mentioned those wheels as they are pre-built Powertap supplied, instead of buying a hub and building one up yourself.

[Baalzamon]

Or wait for Watteam Powerbeat due out next year for $499 US

[TZ2102]

If I was to get a wheel build...
- how many spokes is the best? There's no difference in price from 20-32. I weigh 68
- normal or aero spokes? $50 price difference
- aero jacket disc wheel ($60)

[Xplora]

I put this to you, OP, as someone who similarly doesn't really know anything about wheel building. A used quarq or SRM makes a lot more sense, because the process of building the wheel up and research chews an enormous amount of time, and if there are by issues with your wheel then your PM and wheel are out of commission. Arguably a crank is better data too, because you get drivetrain losses. You are a student, chains get much worse life when you are poor. Never heard of a crankset having the same issue.

The inability of the wheel to run as a strong training wheel vs light racing wheel was the key issue to me. It is really clear from a few months of playing with data that you are doing yourself a disservice.

Bear in mind that Alex has more PMs than most people have bikes. He can afford to be choosy

[Alex Simmons/RST]

I can't afford much. Coaching isn't exactly a high income career! When I bought my power meters, 90% of the models available now didn't exist. I also bought a mix of new and used SRMs as I transitioned to those.

[toolonglegs]

At 68kgs you could easily run 24 spokes... I do at my weight but my wheel builder is pretty good. My wheel built up to 1000g.

[TZ2102]

thanks probably going to go with 24H DT Swiss 585 - should I get the aero jacket wheel cover for 80$? apparently they work quite well