Death to half links, especially if you have some form of tension adjustment (eccentric hub/bb / adjustable dropout). I'd rather change my chainring by 1 tooth to get the same effect if I was that desperate.
1 full link (inner & outer) = 1 inch longer chain, = ~12.7mm change in axle position rearward to maintain tension.
ENO has a 10mm distance from axle centre to hub bolt centre = 20mm diameter circle or maximum axle displacement of 20mm.
If you're at ~4:30 or SE currently and move to ~ 7:30 / SW (90º rotation), the horizontal displacement is sqrt(2x10^2) = ~14.1mm.
If your chain is sufficiently tensioned currently, Ignoring small chainstay angle effects (or assume position 1 is more like 5:00 and position 2 is more like 8:00), adding 1 full link will require ~13mm rearward movement to retain tension, and you can get ~14mm by rotating the wheel centre 90º from ~5:00 to ~8:00. If you add a half link, you only need to move ~6.4mm back, which will put the wheel centre almost at 6:00.
If it's a bit slack currently, you can add a full link and keep tensioning it to ~9:00.
tl;dr: a full link is what you should be adding.
"Narrower" 23c tyres
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Re: "Narrower" 23c tyres
Postby eeksll » Sun Sep 28, 2014 10:21 pm
slight hijack, but what secures the tension ie what stops the hub from rotating loose? the video seems to suggest its not the axle/dropout bolt.
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Re: "Narrower" 23c tyres
Postby thejester » Tue Sep 30, 2014 11:06 am
Its going to mess with your brakes too.
Trek Madone 3.1
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Giant CRX4 - Black Ghost
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