Road tubes

[kenwstr]

Is there a thread for this, my searching didn't find one?

I am awaiting a pair of GP 4000SII tyres. As these have puncture resistance, I thought I'd go for light weight tubes.
After reading up, I think I'll stick to butyl as I'm not racing and it just seems less hassle that way.
The bike came with Kenda Superlites which weigh 80 grams, about the same as other brands ultralite butyl offerings.
I need at least one spare to carry on the bike and thought I'd get a few spares to keep at home as well.
Some reviews are critical of Kenda while other people seem to think brand doesn't matter.

So I am wondering if people here have an opinion on brands to go for and brands to avoid?

Some say that threaded stems damage the pump heads and other suggest pump heads slip off the smooth stems.
Is there a clear preference here?

Regards,
Ken

[2wheels_mond]

Don't overthink it. If you're not getting Latex, Lifeline tubes from Wiggle. 6 for $18.

[m@]

I've used threaded and unthreaded; can't say I care much either way. Conti race light have never let me down... and are actually pretty light unlike some other 'race' tubes I've used. The important thing is that the valves are the same length, and to leave off the caps unless you have some bling alloy ones that match your frame

[toolonglegs]

Been running michelin latex for 6 years ... Love em. Slight trick to fitting them easily, basically start at the valve, put the tyre on working your way back to the valve, when the tube starts pinching you pull up the tyre from where you first started 10-15 cms worth. Then finish putting the tyre on where it was pinching... For some reason the part that you pulled up will not pinch when you put the final part on. Sounds annoying but only takes about 30 secs more than a normal fit.
Yes they need to be pumped up every ride or two.

[Ross]

I used to use Conti Race Light but had a couple spontanously explode so I went back to normal Conti Race 28 butyl tubes but then I had trouble with a couple of these when the valve core unscrewed itself.

Now I just use whatever is on special, the cheaper the better. If I have a preference I will get the smooth unthreaded stem. I always use valve caps too, keeps crap out of the valve. A valve cap weighs 3/5s of bugger all, not going to lose a race or have to push my bike up a hill because of them.

[Muzza72]

My personal preference for quite a few years now are Michelin A1 Aircomp Ultralight.c r c or PBK are where I usually grab them,as I gave up trying to source them locally after an extremely insulting experience from some arse in a shop in a western Sydney suburb.Have never weighed them,so can't comment on the claimed 70g weight.In my personal opinion,they feel better than the really cheap (and heavy) Tioga* ones,and from experience are no more susceptible to puncturing than the heavyweights.

These have a thread-less stem,which I prefer,though to each their own of course.

*not slagging Tioga,merely stating both an example and a personal preference

[Duck!]

..Some say that threaded stems damage the pump heads and other suggest pump heads slip off the smooth stems.
Is there a clear preference here?

Really only rears its head with prolonged, heavy-duty workshop type use where you're using a pump dozens of time a day. Yes, threaded valve stems do chew the rubber in the pump head out, but it takes a while. And threadless stems will only slip once the pump rubber is becoming worn. Decent pump manufacturers have aftermarket service parts so you can replace worn pump head parts.

If using threaded valves, chuck the stupid little nuts out, all they do is rattle & drive you mental.

By and large though, tubes are tubes. Yes you'll get the odd dodgy one, but these can affect any manufacturer, and in any case are quite rare.

[jacks1071]

Light weight tubes are super easy to pinch during fitment, I have played with them from time to time on race wheels and don't think they are worth the trouble or extra cost unless you need to milk every last drop of performance (at the risk of decreased reliability).

[KGB]

You can go lighter than 80g in butyl I think. Conti supersonics and bontrager super duper whatever they're called will be closer to 50g.

I generally just use cheapo ones except for race wheels which get latex or ultralight butyl.

[cage]

Been using the Vittoria Ultralite's for a while now...mainly because I prefer the 42mm length stems on the 2 wheelsets that I have.

I buy them online because the stores around here seem to only carry tubes with 60mm stems & it just looks silly having that much stem on 24mm deep rims.

[rodneycc]

+1 for the vittoria ultralight. I've tried 3 or 4 diff brands but I like the vitts the best (also they are a little wider for 25-28c). Always fairly cheap too. Mainly in my head though I think.

[Ross]

My personal preference for quite a few years now are Michelin A1 Aircomp Ultralight.c r c or PBK are where I usually grab them,as I gave up trying to source them locally after an extremely insulting experience from some arse in a shop in a western Sydney suburb.Have never weighed them,so can't comment on the claimed 70g weight.In my personal opinion,they feel better than the really cheap (and heavy) Tioga* ones,and from experience are no more susceptible to puncturing than the heavyweights.

These have a thread-less stem,which I prefer,though to each their own of course.

*not slagging Tioga,merely stating both an example and a personal preference

Tioga weigh the same as Conti Race 28

[kenwstr]

Don't overthink it. If you're not getting Latex, Lifeline tubes from Wiggle. 6 for $18.

Hmm,
It just doesn't make sense to me to buy a bike for over $2k, put on good tyres and then cheap out with heavy standard tubes just to save a couple of bucks. We have a lot of cat head thorns around here so puncture resistance is essential. With my older retro bike, I have always used thorn resistant tubes and as the original tyres that came on the new bike were not very resistant, I put resistant tubes on straight away. Now that those tyres are worn out and need replacing, I'm going with GP 4000s because they are definitely the most favored tyre around here for performance vs puncture resistance. So I have decided to start with light weight tubes for their better compliance and see how they go with the thorns. If I get too many flats, I'll go to a heavier tube until I find a trade off that suites me. I think that's a better plan than starting with ultra heavy tubes and never knowing if a better performance setup would provide acceptable protection. Look, although I don't race, it's still nice to ride a well set up bike.

Ken

[cage]

Sorry to tell you but GP4000s tyres with lightweight tubes are no match for cat heads... or 3 corner jacks as we call them here.

I've always been amused at what people call these things, cat heads, goat heads, 3 corner jacks...

[biker jk]

Don't overthink it. If you're not getting Latex, Lifeline tubes from Wiggle. 6 for $18.

Hmm,
It just doesn't make sense to me to buy a bike for over $2k, put on good tyres and then cheap out with heavy standard tubes just to save a couple of bucks. We have a lot of cat head thorns around here so puncture resistance is essential. With my older retro bike, I have always used thorn resistant tubes and as the original tyres that came on the new bike were not very resistant, I put resistant tubes on straight away. Now that those tyres are worn out and need replacing, I'm going with GP 4000s because they are definitely the most favored tyre around here for performance vs puncture resistance. So I have decided to start with light weight tubes for their better compliance and see how they go with the thorns. If I get too many flats, I'll go to a heavier tube until I find a trade off that suites me. I think that's a better plan than starting with ultra heavy tubes and never knowing if a better performance setup would provide acceptable protection. Look, although I don't race, it's still nice to ride a well set up bike.

Ken

If puncture resistance is essential I wouldn't be using Conti GP4000s tyres, let alone wafer thin tubes.

[kenwstr]

Well, if it doesn't work out I can always put the existing heavy resistant tubes in them.
All I know is the GP 4000s include a vectran breaker and are by far the most popular tyres among roadies here.
http://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle ... _S_II.html

If you want 100% thorn proof you almost need a solid tyre and won't get any kind or performance so does "resistant" mean 50% less punctures, maybe 30% less....... I guess I'll find out.

Ken

[2wheels_mond]

Hmm,
It just doesn't make sense to me to buy a bike for over $2k, put on good tyres and then cheap out with heavy standard tubes just to save a couple of bucks.

What's the point of spending more than you have to? If you're going latex, fine, it's a cheap place to save weight, but if not, at the end of the day it's a bit of butyl.

Price is not an accurate reflection of quality, only the efficiency of distribution.

[cage]

Well, if it doesn't work out I can always put the existing heavy resistant tubes in them.
All I know is the GP 4000s include a vectran breaker and are by far the most popular tyres among roadies here.
http://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle ... _S_II.html

If you want 100% thorn proof you almost need a solid tyre and won't get any kind or performance so does "resistant" mean 50% less punctures, maybe 30% less....... I guess I'll find out.

Ken

I think it just needs to be looked at it in the proper context. The GP's are good for a racing tyre. The vectran breaker is there to stop glass.

I run them on my commuter but i've got Mr Tuffy liners as well and I stay well away from areas that may have 3 corner jacks.

[m@]

FWIW the only punctures I've had with my GP4000Ss have been due to thorns... they hit the Vectran band, then take a 90* turn and work their way around the side. Glass just goes down to the band then sits there or falls out.

I used to run super-heavy 'puncture resistant' tubes, but IME once something pointy is through the tyre it's all over - so the only advantages of heavier tubes are cost and ease of fitting AFAIAC.

[kenwstr]

Hmm,
It just doesn't make sense to me to buy a bike for over $2k, put on good tyres and then cheap out with heavy standard tubes just to save a couple of bucks.

What's the point of spending more than you have to? If you're going latex, fine, it's a cheap place to save weight, but if not, at the end of the day it's a bit of butyl.

Price is not an accurate reflection of quality, only the efficiency of distribution.

The point is simple, It's just nice to use equipment that one is delighted with on whatever criteria one has chosen to be important for them personally. Economy is not necessarily the highest criteria for everyone.

Ken

[kenwstr]

Well, if it doesn't work out I can always put the existing heavy resistant tubes in them.
All I know is the GP 4000s include a vectran breaker and are by far the most popular tyres among roadies here.
http://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle ... _S_II.html

If you want 100% thorn proof you almost need a solid tyre and won't get any kind or performance so does "resistant" mean 50% less punctures, maybe 30% less....... I guess I'll find out.

Ken

I think it just needs to be looked at it in the proper context. The GP's are good for a racing tyre. The vectran breaker is there to stop glass.

I run them on my commuter but i've got Mr Tuffy liners as well and I stay well away from areas that may have 3 corner jacks.

I agree about context and that makes me think I am on the right track for what I want. I am not after elimination of flats but a performance based compromise. I can still use my vintage bike on any occasions that warrant a much tougher option.


Ken

[rodneycc]

I'm with M on this one. Once the tyre is penetrated then its game over with any tube no matter what quality. So those 3 corner jack would be about the same as running over nails or tacks (so I'd leave that out of the equation when buying and put it down to bad luck).

[kenwstr]

I ended up getting "Bontrager Race X Lite" as the LBS has them. Turns out they weigh 70g give or take a bit, not that weight is in itself an issue, just that less mass tends to indicate better compliance = lower rolling resistance. Anyway they certainly pack smaller than the Kenda Superlites, easier to fit in my saddle bag and that is an even bigger plus. Still waiting on the tyres.....


Regards,
Ken

[eeksll]

..Some say that threaded stems damage the pump heads and other suggest pump heads slip off the smooth stems.
Is there a clear preference here?

Really only rears its head with prolonged, heavy-duty workshop type use where you're using a pump dozens of time a day. Yes, threaded valve stems do chew the rubber in the pump head out, but it takes a while. And threadless stems will only slip once the pump rubber is becoming worn. Decent pump manufacturers have aftermarket service parts so you can replace worn pump head parts.

If using threaded valves, chuck the stupid little nuts out, all they do is rattle & drive you mental.

By and large though, tubes are tubes. Yes you'll get the odd dodgy one, but these can affect any manufacturer, and in any case are quite rare.

Maybe different pumps work differently, but with my topeak headed pump, the rubber seal on the pump head only goes as far as the thread for the cap, never onto the main section. When I used to do it and jam the pump onto threaded valves, I would rip the tube at the base of the valve.

To the OP if you find the gp4000's are durable enough for you try the latex tubes. Probably not worth going latex for those stiff puncture resistant tyres.

[harmonix1234]

Schwalbe SV15. Hands down best tube on the market. For those worried about threaded stems, do what I do and go to jay car and get some heat shrink. The size that just slides over the valve. Cut about an inch off and shrink it on the valve stem. A piece one metre long costs about $3 and will last forever. The small diameter heat shrink also works really well as cable end crimps. Looks really sleek too.
The schwalbe tubes keep their pressure for longer than others I have tried. Bontrager QC I found low and had several faulty ones out of the box, and the conti ones seemed to have the valve cores come out and get stuck in my pump. Tioga I have seen with irregular thicknesses in the one tube, as well as Kenda. Schwalbe really are a cut above with quality and consistency.