Difference between a cheapy bike and "Entry level road bike"

goformickey
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2014 6:29 pm

Difference between a cheapy bike and "Entry level road bike"

Postby goformickey » Thu Oct 09, 2014 6:44 pm

I recently purchased my first bike, just for commuting. Since it was only for short rides and was purchased for an alternative to the train, my budget was pretty low. So I ended up with a Reid Condor I got second hand for about $195(after I'd replaced the bar tape). So far I can't really fault it.

When I was researching into what to buy, I came across heaps of threads/posts about buying a first road bike/entry level road bike. Most of the time the initial post or reply posts basically said you should be looking to pay around $1k-1.5k.

Now I assume this is intended for someone looking to take up the sport and really stick with it, but I was just wondering, what do you get for your extra money when compared to paying $200 second hand or $300 new for a bike?

What is the reason you'd want to be spending this much when starting out over paying less for your first bike? Is it safety? Upgrade-ability? Speed/ease of riding? More sizing options?

Blinding
Posts: 37
Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2014 5:49 pm
Location: Brighton, QLD

Re: Difference between a cheapy bike and "Entry level road b

Postby Blinding » Thu Oct 09, 2014 7:57 pm

Well I just bought my first Road bike which would be considered entry level for $1399 on Sale, I got a carbon frame, Tiagra groupset and clipless pedals. I got it new for a few reasons 1. It's new, no one has ridden it prior so I know there hasn't been any accidents or damage of any sort
2. It fits me correctly as I was unsure of what size I would be on a road bike and also most bike shops these days will offer a bike fit free with purchase, yes it's basic fit it gets you going in the right direction. 3. After Sales Support 4. New bike smell :)
2017 Giant Contend SL1 Disc

Calvin27
Posts: 2435
Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:45 pm

Re: Difference between a cheapy bike and "Entry level road b

Postby Calvin27 » Thu Oct 09, 2014 8:14 pm

Blinding wrote:Well I just bought my first Road bike which would be considered entry level for $1399 on Sale, I got a carbon frame, Tiagra groupset and clipless pedals.
Carbon and tiagra is not entry level.

I'd say entry level is a alu sora road bike. They are perfectly capable of doing what you want from it. Below sora it starts getting murky in terms of reliability. Sora (at least the current one) is not great, and does not feel nice but it works.
Heavy road bike
Cushy dirt bike
Very cushy dirt bike
Bike crushed by car (RIP)
No brakes bike
Ebike

Blinding
Posts: 37
Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2014 5:49 pm
Location: Brighton, QLD

Re: Difference between a cheapy bike and "Entry level road b

Postby Blinding » Thu Oct 09, 2014 9:54 pm

Calvin27 wrote:
Blinding wrote:Well I just bought my first Road bike which would be considered entry level for $1399 on Sale, I got a carbon frame, Tiagra groupset and clipless pedals.
Carbon and tiagra is not entry level.

I'd say entry level is a alu sora road bike. They are perfectly capable of doing what you want from it. Below sora it starts getting murky in terms of reliability. Sora (at least the current one) is not great, and does not feel nice but it works.
Disregard my post then o.p.
2017 Giant Contend SL1 Disc

eeksll
Posts: 2631
Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2009 10:36 pm

Re: Difference between a cheapy bike and "Entry level road b

Postby eeksll » Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:42 pm

http://www.reidcycles.com.au/condor-road-bike.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

entry level road bike is a bit of a unclear term, thats all in the eye of the beholder. On that Reid site there is 7 models above the Condor and all getting about $100 more expensive with each step. Where along that line you deem entry level is ....

But your next step up would be integrated shift/brake levers the brake and gear shifters are all in the single lever. That Reid Condor has separate shifters so you have to move your hand off the brake lever to change gear, integrated you do not.

then as you move up the range, shifting gears will feel smoother, lighter and quieter.

the reid has a 7 speeds on the back, as you move up you will get more speeds on the back. This allows more options e.g say you find one gear too easy to ride in so you shift up, then it becomes a little too hard, there is slightly less chance of this happening with more speeds.

Frame wise, some cheap frames just feel dead and heavy, I don't know the reason, I have a cheap mtb frame while over all weight is only 3kg heavier it just feels really heavy to ride. I am pretty sure its not just the extra 3kg causing that feeling.

Also somewhere along the line you will get a carbon fibre fork. I cant explain what this gives you as a rider, maybe someone else can.

as you move up to the more expensive bikes you will get lighter and stiffer frames + lighter wheels which overall will make the bike feel more responsive.

User avatar
MattyK
Posts: 3252
Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2010 1:07 pm
Location: Melbourne

Re: Difference between a cheapy bike and "Entry level road b

Postby MattyK » Thu Oct 09, 2014 11:10 pm

When we're talking road bikes, the term really means road race bikes.

I would say "entry level" means that when you're at the beginner level of racing, that the bike is not the limiting factor in your performance. Spending more wouldn't make you faster, but spending less and you might suffer - excessively heavy parts, poor shifting and braking, non-standard parts that can't easily be upgraded or replaced, etc.

User avatar
Xplora
Posts: 8272
Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2010 12:33 am
Location: TL;DR

Re: Difference between a cheapy bike and "Entry level road b

Postby Xplora » Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:53 am

I reckon Matty has it. Entry level - entry into "what"?

Entry into the cool kids club, or riding to the shops?

Calvin27
Posts: 2435
Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:45 pm

Re: Difference between a cheapy bike and "Entry level road b

Postby Calvin27 » Fri Oct 10, 2014 11:14 am

goformickey wrote: Now I assume this is intended for someone looking to take up the sport and really stick with it, but I was just wondering, what do you get for your extra money when compared to paying $200 second hand or $300 new for a bike?

What is the reason you'd want to be spending this much when starting out over paying less for your first bike? Is it safety? Upgrade-ability? Speed/ease of riding? More sizing options?
Without knowing what 'entry level' you are referring to,

More money usually buys:
- Lighter parts, big weight drops between the lower end parts and less weight savings per dollar at the higher end.
- From Sora, Tiagra > 105+ it gets you hidden cable routing.
- Lighter frame, stiffer if you believe the marketing
- Better compliance (although I personally think this contradicts the stiffer frame)
- Better, lighter tyres
- Smoother and cleaner shifting - it feels nicer and more crisp

Pretty much lightweight is the biggest factor though. If this was a disc brake bike, I'd add that braking modulation and power would be very noticeable.
Heavy road bike
Cushy dirt bike
Very cushy dirt bike
Bike crushed by car (RIP)
No brakes bike
Ebike

User avatar
rodneycc
Posts: 2879
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2013 1:50 pm
Location: Melbourne Eastern Suburbs, Victoria

Re: Difference between a cheapy bike and "Entry level road b

Postby rodneycc » Fri Oct 10, 2014 2:48 pm

Agree with how long is a piece of string with the term entry level. However I don't necessarily agree it applies to the term Road race bikes. For example what about Road endurance, Road Sportif, etc etc. Its not all about racing/performance imo.
cheers Rod.
PS - the term 10 speed racer from back in the day means something completely different today! :D
2013 BMC TM SLR01;2013/14 Bianchi Inf CV
2013 Lynskey Helix;2013 XACD Ti Di2
2013 Giant TCR Adv SL1;2014 Giant Defy Adv SL

tron07
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2014 10:51 am

Re: Difference between a cheapy bike and "Entry level road b

Postby tron07 » Fri Oct 10, 2014 4:08 pm

I reckon that the Reid Osprey with the Claris groupset is a good entry level road bike for someone buying a first road bike, of course if you want to spend another 100 or 200 can always up to Sora/Tiagra bikes around $450~500. Based on the price of the bike, its still "entry level" :D

User avatar
Tzantushka
Posts: 77
Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:35 pm

Re: Difference between a cheapy bike and "Entry level road b

Postby Tzantushka » Fri Oct 10, 2014 8:20 pm

Matty raises a good point - entry level for what?

Without knowing that info I would think about:
1) the purpose
2) the frame material

As a generalisation for road use:
- cheapie bike (heavy) steel frame
- entry level alu frame
- entry level carbon frame
(don't think Ti is 'entry level?)

User avatar
Xplora
Posts: 8272
Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2010 12:33 am
Location: TL;DR

Re: Difference between a cheapy bike and "Entry level road b

Postby Xplora » Sat Oct 11, 2014 8:58 am

We've got a Derny Driver special here :)

End of the day, the OP's last paragraph is simple to answer. "yes to all of those things". Thing I've noticed with the better brands (which are way more expensive than the Reid/Cell bikes anyway) is that you are getting multiple upgrades as you go up the price brackets. 1500 bucks a couple years back got you a Trek that had the same number of gears as the 7000 dollar bike, but you got a better groupset at 2500, better frame at 3200, better wheels and carbon handlebars at 4000, and better frame again and the best groupset at 7000. You got the same geometry and the same parts as the 7000 dollar bike for 1500, but everything was less nice and much heavier. BUT upgrading your groupset, saddle, handlebars etc is so expensive compared to the original bike that you might as well just use the old one for rain/trainer use, and get a new bike. I had a 300 dollar Fluid, moved to a 1500 dollar Trek, then a 3500 dollar Trek, and I'd only get a 6000 dollar bike to replace the current one (assuming I didn't break this one as well). Each bike was dramatically better than the last, but spending 800 bucks on Campag gears didn't make my 3500 dollar Trek worth 4300, it just made it different (and more expensive LOL)

That's why I ask what is entry level. I've raced with dudes in C grade with a Mclaren Venge. C grade.... the bike is not about performance at that grade.

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users