Flat Bar roadie upgrade - will this work?

[nandystam]

I've had my Marin Fairfax SC6 for a while and have enjoyed riding it, but I'd like to upgrade most of the drivetrain since most of it is fairly entry level stuff.

The specs for the bike are here, although the chainset on my bike is Shimano FC-R345 and not Sora (is FC-R345 actually Sora?? I don't think it is). However, since 9 speed double chainset seem to be relatively uncommon now, and it seems on depending where you look, that 10 speed double chainset should work OK, but then there are others that say it won't.

What I planned to do was upgrade to the following components:

Shimano 105 5750 10sp chainset (same 50/34 combo as what I already have)
Shimano Ultegra 6700 or Dura Ace 9000 bottom bracket
Tiagra HG950 9 speed 11-30 casssette (although there seems to be more options in the 11-32 category)
A 9 speed chain (haven't decided what yet)

So apart from the tools needed to remove/install the BB and cranks, is this combination going to work? Are there any other missing bits required that I haven't considered?

Thanks

[eeksll]

a Shimano FC-R345 is octalink (according to my google) so your going to need a crank puller for octalink and the correct bottom bracket tool to remove the octalink BB.

your chosen new crank has the outboard bearings so you'll need yet another tool for that. You'll also need the tool that does the preload screw for the new crankset (mine came with the BB tool).

also you may need/want to chase and face the bottom bracket on the frame if you move to the outboard bearings (which is yet another tool or a trip to the LBS), I read several differing opinions on whether that needed to be done or not.

But it looks like it will all workout.

However, it seems like a lot of fiddling and expense for what I don't see as being a massive upgrade.

[TailWalker]

Yeah I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work. But what are you hoping to achieve with the upgrade?
To be honest, if your current components are not worn out you'll be spending at least $250 for little, if any noticeable improvement.

As parts wear out and need replacing (chain, cassette, BB) you can upgrade their quality if you wish. In the meantime your money is best spent on good quality tyres. That and keeping your bike clean & well maintained will give you the best bang for your buck

[Jean]

A new crankset and BB is unlikely to much of anything to your bike's performance or 'feel'. The new cassette and chain might improve your shifting, but I don't know what sort of 'step' there is between Sora and Tiagra - not much I expect. You might need to jump a few more steps to find a cassette that will notably improve you shifting. But even then it's unlikely to do much in isolation.

If you really want to 'improve your drive train' look to your shifters and derailleurs first - probably in combination with a better cassette/chain (stay in 9-speed land, don't bother trying to get more cogs). This will probably produce a much nicer and crisper shifting experience, but whether that is 'worth it' is another matter.

If you haven't done it already, invest in some cycling shoes and clipless pedals first - that will revolutionise your cycling experience.

[eeksll]

Smart money says don't bother ... But I have been through this kind of upgrading before so I do understand. If you must spend, Jean's suggestion of shifters or clipless pedals would be the way to go.

[nandystam]

All - thanks for the replies. I kind of wrote it in a bit of a haste so to answer a few questions that might help clarify a few things

- This isn't my first bike. I did have an MTB for many years and have only had this flat bar roadie for about a year or so but i've put close to 4000kms on it
- I do have clipless pedals and shoes

The main problem with the bike from day one has been a lot of side-to-side play of the chain, so much so that it rubs against the derailleur cage in the last few higher gears (smaller cogs) on the cassette, regardless of it being on the 50t or 34t front chainring, although it is a bit worse on the 34t. Having spoken to the LBS a few other people I know, they have suggested either the bottom bracket and/or the front chainrings could be the cause, so my hope is that some better quality components will correct or reduce that. The LBS has had a few goes of trying to resolve it but without luck. I never had these kinds of issues on the MTB, but that was using higher end gear (Deore / Deore LX).

Does that change any opinions that it may not be worth it?

[eeksll]

would be worth posting that question in the shed. You'll get more hits from people who know more.

is the chainring straight, you should be able to take the chain off/put it in the ring your not looking at and turn the cranks. Is it true and spinning on 1 plane?

[Jean]

Yes, post this to the Shed as someone might offer some ideas. But on another note, if your LBS is the same place you bought it from and they reckon there's a problem with the fitted components and it's always been that way, then it might be time to have a firm word about making your purchase fit for its intended purpose.

The main problem with the bike from day one has been a lot of side-to-side play of the chain, so much so that it rubs against the derailleur cage in the last few higher gears (smaller cogs) on the cassette, regardless of it being on the 50t or 34t front chainring, although it is a bit worse on the 34t. Having spoken to the LBS a few other people I know, they have suggested either the bottom bracket and/or the front chainrings could be the cause, so my hope is that some better quality components will correct or reduce that. The LBS has had a few goes of trying to resolve it but without luck. I never had these kinds of issues on the MTB, but that was using higher end gear (Deore / Deore LX).

Does that change any opinions that it may not be worth it?

It's hard to say what's going on here, but play in the chain sounds unlikely to me unless it's grossly the wrong type. The BB spindle could be the wrong length, or it could simply be a poorly adjusted FD (though I assume that's been checked). A warped chainring or crank arm might be the cause, but that would usually only affect the chain line on part of each rotation as the bend/warp pushed the chain over.

I'd resist the urge to buy new parts for a bit and if you are not into your own maintenance I'd find another LBS for a second mechanical opinion. Having a relationship with a LBS is fine and dandy, but a fresh set of eyes might find you an easy solution. While I've come across many great mechanics over the years, I've come across many more overconfident duds, so don't be afraid to get another opinion.