which Brooks?

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rodneycc
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby rodneycc » Tue Feb 10, 2015 9:31 pm

I actually use my cover as a dust cover rather than a rain cover :-)
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby Mulger bill » Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:01 pm

Never a problem with the rain covers that came with my saddles, except for the Swallow Ti on the roadie which is logo printed.

The commuters cover is wrapped around the grab handle of my commute pack for rapid access.
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby rifraf » Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:33 pm

Mulger bill wrote:Never a problem with the rain covers that came with my saddles, except for the Swallow Ti on the roadie which is logo printed.

The commuters cover is wrapped around the grab handle of my commute pack for rapid access.
Perhaps its a conspiracy due to my Irish surname
Glad to hear yet another owners rain cover is doing what its supposed to and was paid for.
Might there be a touch of the Irish in your heritage to account for the Swallow Ti having an affinity to H20? :shock: :idea:
Good to hear at least the grab handle of your commute pack will remain dry in theory :wink: :lol: :lol:
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby il padrone » Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:35 pm

rifraf wrote:None of the three I received with my new saddles was worth a damn and all went into the bin.
Great to hear some of them work.
I'll stick with the plastic bags :)
Covers supplied a few years back were rather poor I believe; not very waterproof at all. I had a cover from another supplier at the time. The covers supplied now (in the past 4-5 years) are excellent and quite waterproof. Of course, do not ride on them - they are not designed for that.
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby outnabike » Sun Sep 27, 2015 3:50 pm

I hate the brooks saddle.

Thanks to to all who have stated a case though. It is driving me crazy, I have to have one and am strongly committed to the B17 as a great starting point. I am in the 90 kg range so i don't know if that indicates more pain in the process or an easier break in. Love the optimists that had no probs from day one. ( hate you the most), Light weights all, no doubt.
To qualify some points I am really old but still do around 3000 klm a year so It is great to get this sort of feed back.

I keep going back to IP's post for great advice though. A steady sort of bloke....

So is a heavier body a good break in, or destined for more pain. I love the idea of soaking the thing in warm water first as we used to fill our boots and walk them dry. Leather is leather....Any way at around $140 delivered at today costs, I reckon the B 17 is worth a try. I have enjoyed this post for its complete neutrality and attempt to help all.
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby ironhanglider » Sun Sep 27, 2015 4:56 pm

Saddle choice is always difficult.

I ride variously on a Swift, Swallow, B17N and clones of the B17 and Swallow. I think the B17N is under appreciated.

As for most things Have you asked Sheldon?

I'm actually not a believer in trying to soften a leather saddle, if a soft saddle was the desired result why aren't they made out of canvas?

My observation is that many people seem to try and solve the positioning issues with leather treatment. Fiddling with angle adjustment makes a big difference.

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Re: which Brooks?

Postby rodneycc » Sun Sep 27, 2015 5:08 pm

Try the proofide. They reckon it speeds up the break in process so I've always pumped a lot of the stuff into the top and bottom of the saddle even before I have gone out for a ride on it. Got to get it in exactly the right spot also. I like to call it the sledge position with a slight nose up a little dip in the middle and a little levelling up at the back. But I reckon every brooks saddle is just a touch slightly different so you have to fiddle around with it.

Anyway good luck with it....
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby DavidS » Sun Sep 27, 2015 9:32 pm

Outnabike, I weighed about 110Kg when I bough a B17 and had no issues, comfy from out of the box for me. Now about 95Kg and still comfy.

Anyway, you need a saddle which agrees with your rear end. If a Brooks doesn't suit find something which does.

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Re: which Brooks?

Postby Kalgrm » Sun Sep 27, 2015 11:08 pm

ironhanglider wrote: Fiddling with angle adjustment makes a big difference.
^^^^ This!

The B17 is possibly the best for being comfy straight out of the box, but you'll need to find the angle that's "just right". Typically, it's a little higher at the front than you might expect from riding non-Brooks saddles.

It was interesting to read the perception from earlier in this thread that the C15/C17 offers no advantage over other plastic saddles. I disagree: The Cambiums still hammock-style saddles in the same way that the leather Brooks saddles are. Other plastic saddles have a hard "floor" with padding on it. Completely different riding experiences ...

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Re: which Brooks?

Postby outnabike » Mon Sep 28, 2015 5:07 pm

Thanks folks, all makes sense and yes I did look at the treatment in Sheldons pages.
I reckon it is a good way to ruin a saddle soaking it in neatsfoot oil though. Still, it might be ok for a little while with a very light person. Thanks to the heavier rider replies. Looks like a batch of proofhide is the go. And thanks to all the other members that posted on this thread.

This looks a good a buy and a Sydney phone number.
https://www.bicyclesonline.com.au/brook ... 7-standard" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby outnabike » Wed Oct 07, 2015 2:49 pm

I used to breaking all sorts of boots by filling with warm water for 15 min and then empty it and walk them dry with 2 pair of socks. And I am talking expensive red wing calf boots as well. I never had a problem, the boot always lasted years and did not give me blister on many kays in the mountains hunting deer.
So when I found this article I was interested. Interesting though is the magical Mink oil which many others reject as to weakening in use and similar to neatsfoot will turn the thing into a hammock.I will see how it goes with just a buff with proofide and see how it goes first of course ,but it's all good fun... :)

But to me the idea has merit with my experience with water and leather boots, then maybe proofide, which I ordered with my saddle.

Any one been game enough to try this...I am betting no, but the article seems to be favored by respected folk that have done it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lon_Haldeman" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.randorichard.com/saddle-break-in" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Breaking in a Leather Saddle

The second method is slightly more complicated, but is the technique I generally prefer. This is recommended by the legendary Lon Haldeman on his blog page. He outlines 13 steps to breaking in a Brooks (or similar leather) saddle. The whole process takes about three to four days. Below is an abbreviated version of his 13 steps.
1. (optional) Before treating this saddle I wanted to minimize any chafing and skived the edges of the leather with an Exacto blade.
2. Attach your saddle to your seat post and dial in your bike fit with your preferred height, setback and overall saddle angle. Mark with tape the height of the post.
3. Remove the saddle and post together as one unit. Immerse the whole saddle in a bucket of hot water (100-120F or ~43C or just barely not too hot to touch) for around 7 minutes. Remove the saddle and flex the sides of it with your fingers. Lon says “The saddle should feel pliable but not limp. If the saddle still feels stiff then soak it another 5 minutes. Do not over soak it because you only want to break in the saddle about 50% during this first process.”
4. Remove the saddle from the water and quickly dry it off with an old towel. Rub the top, bottom and edges of the leather with plenty of mink oil. Message it into the leather for about 5–10 minutes, particularly in the sit bone area.
5. Do not wipe off the mink oil. Mount the saddle on your bike and immediately go for a 10–15 minute ride (using old shorts is recommended).
6. After your ride, add more mink oil to the top & let it sit overnight. The next day, if it still feels too firm, repeat steps 3 & 4 if necessary and go for an hour ride (on one occasion I went for a 4-hour ride, which proved to be too much for the Brooks Team Pro).
7. Add more mink oil each day and go for increasing longer rides for the next two days.
8. Be sure to keep the saddle well oiled for the first month or so after breaking it in.
For me, within three days I was off and running with a new leather saddle that gave me plenty of comfort without the tireless break-in time that is commonly associated with this style of seat. I was able to ride a one-day 200K (125 miles) immediately without any problems down under. NICE!
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby rodneycc » Wed Oct 07, 2015 3:54 pm

I think the trick is to put a lot of the proofide on the underneath side of the saddle rather than just the top. Just be careful not to go too close to metal joins or you will get a squeaky saddle (which the remedy for that is to squirt wd40 around the joins). Dunno about the mink oil procedure.. Reckon its time for another different saddle if you have to go to that length.
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby outnabike » Wed Oct 07, 2015 4:54 pm

I was surprised with the delivery a half hour ago and just read the official info. I think I will just stick with a bit of proofide and do the patient thing. Just looking at the saddle makes you wonder how to be brave enough to chuck it into a bucket of water. :) I don't want my chicken feathers to get all wet.

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Re: which Brooks?

Postby Kalgrm » Wed Oct 07, 2015 7:39 pm

They are designed for English conditions.

Enough said (by me, at least ... ;) )

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Re: which Brooks?

Postby outnabike » Fri Oct 09, 2015 2:50 pm

Kalgrm wrote:They are designed for English conditions.

Enough said (by me, at least ... ;) )

Cheers,
Graeme
He He, I was born in Germany so it must be close enough as far as conditions go.

Went on a 20 kay ride with new brooks B17 and I thought this is gonna be fun. Tapping the hard leather and hearing the drumming sound is not conducive to a feeling of comfort. My existing seat though a little uncomfortable and quite acceptable has a gel like top to it, although not a very thick layer. My firs thoughts were to go with the B17 narrow as my plastic seat is a bit narrower that the B17. Also the B17 is some what flatter on top than the plastic one and I thought it might be a problem. Any way The B17 seemed a fairly neutral starting point and so I bought it.

I must say I didn't expect the worst from all that I have read, as I don't seem to be susceptible to seat issues as some cyclists are. I have to say that riding along, and even the last few kays I actually forgot it was a new seat on the bike. For the first time out and only a short ride it is on par more comfortable than the one I took off.
I cant say why as it is straight out of the box.

For interest sake I am 90 kg, and will be 70 years old next April, and ride around 3000 klm a year on average. My bike fit is simple and self learnt with my heel nicely on the pedal when seated. I haven't ever checked my leg angle when clipped in, as I read that 30 deg is the ball park when clipped in.

The clipless pedals are Shimano M 530 el-cheapos set light, and the cheapest MTB shoes I could get in my size. My pedal stroke is close to vertical and my feet are slightly splayed in the clips as they would be in just plain pedals.
None of this is relevant but sometimes we see things in another persons set up, and it might all be meaningful to a seats comfort.

The other answer is that I have been kicked in the arse that many times through my life that it toughened me up. Or I might already be on the path to fossilization with the same effect.
I don't care the seat is a keeper, and all others that are happy with them reckon they get better in time.
The only thing is it is noticeably more slippery, but riding along in a pair of jeans will do that to most seats, old hipster. :)

None of this means any thing in the real world as I agree we all are different within our body specs. So this is only for to show that a person with my weight and age finds the thing pleasant to ride with. I don't have an allegiance to any saddle maker be it pommy or as the Brooks joint is owned be Selle, to any other saddle maker..... :)
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby rodneycc » Fri Oct 09, 2015 3:25 pm

Happy Days, found a keeper.. good news! Now test number two is go for a 30km ride and see if you get sore inner thighs or groin. If this happen it could suggest you need a Narrow or even better suited to a Swift (which both take longer to break in). Just my experience with the B17 being a fraction too wide...

Edit: disclaimer: I never have tried a Narrow but have a Swift. Saddle of choice nowdays is the Selle SMP Lite209 or Drakon...
Last edited by rodneycc on Fri Oct 09, 2015 4:10 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby RonK » Fri Oct 09, 2015 3:37 pm

Hmmm, well if you think the B17 hard - Brooks acknowledge the B17 Narrow is their hardest saddle.
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby outnabike » Fri Oct 09, 2015 4:41 pm

Yep good advice guys, Only time will tell.The saddle seemed hard to the tap off course, but it sure don't feel hard to ride on. But yes, I am certainly not crowing about it, just saying that from brand new I don't know its there and 20 kays first off should have some effect if it was a poor fit...and in jeans as well... :)
Still, time will tell.
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Re: which Brooks?

Postby Kalgrm » Fri Oct 09, 2015 4:59 pm

outnabike wrote: just saying that from brand new I don't know its there and 20 kays first off should have some effect if it was a poor fit...
That was my experience too. Comfy on a B17 from the very first ride.

Cheers,
Graeme
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