Which Puncture Patches?

[il padrone]

I have yet to use a stick-on patch, but I do not like the general comments that I hear about them. I always patch tubes with vulcanising glue and a patch - the tube well-sanded to get the rubber oxide layer off the tube, and applied when the glue is 'tack-dry' ie. almost dry to touch. At this stage just press the patch on and it will cure virtually instantly, with just a little pressure for a minute or so.

Many people make the mistake of rushing the patch on when the glue is still wet.

I generally dispoose of a tube once it has about 7-8 patches on it. I have had tubes which have had patches secure for many years, some as long as 10-15 years. These days my tyres are so resistant to punctures that I struggle to get 7 patches on the tubes.

[OldBloke]

I used a stick on patch to repair a puncture some months ago. Its still going strong but, mind you, I run the tyre at fairly low pressure - about 50psi.

OB

[Xplora]

Derny's advice definitely applies to The Race Bike. If you've spent 1000 bucks on the wheels and 100 bucks on tyres, just get a new tube every time. I find you can feel the tube repair under some conditions and it drives me crazy.

The commuter or cruiser? Patch that gear, patch it many times. The cost makes it silly to throw the tube away. I use the glue and patches, don't get good ones, they are coming out of the same factory from what I can see. Get two kits once you have built a small collection of tubes

[RonK]

Lezyne self-adhesive patches make a permanent tube repair for my hp tyres, and remain sticky even after a couple of years in my toolkit. Unlike vulcanizing glue which has invariably hardened in the tube by the time I need it.

[TCAT]

I have never used self adhesive patches and was considering buying some when I next needed to buy some patches but hearing the issues most others have I will stick to the glue/cement method.
To reduce the need to replace dried out patch glue put it in a small bottle of water. I have had tubes of glue that last over 6 years and still usable.

[ironhanglider]

I have never used self adhesive patches and was considering buying some when I next needed to buy some patches but hearing the issues most others have I will stick to the glue/cement method.
To reduce the need to replace dried out patch glue put it in a small bottle of water. I have had tubes of glue that last over 6 years and still usable.

I store my glue in the freezer compartment of the garage fridge.

BTW the weldtite Cure-C-Cure patches are the best. One of the nearest LBSs to me stocks these which immediately elevated my of them.

These patches are smaller than the typical Rema patches, without the orange bit. They are thinner and stretchier than typical patches, so they become more like part of the tube.

Cheers,

Cameron

[il padrone]

BTW the weldtite Cure-C-Cure patches are the best.

+1

I have had great results with these patches as well

[lucky7]

Week before last I changed tyres on one of my bikes and thought I'd do the tubes as well as they went in with the previous set of tyres. Surprised to see a self-adhesive patch on there. It had lasted 14 months or so, with no obvious leakage.

[mikedufty]

Contrary to other's advice on here, I've found sanding the tube completely unnecessary, I can't recall having a glue on patch fail and have used lots. I have had some stick on patches that were brilliant, and some that were useless. The result is I don't trust them, so don't try them out to find out which current brands work. I do have a couple in my tool bag in as a back up in case of glue drying out. I think the smaller tubes of glue are better than large ones because you can carry a spare unopened one, and change to a new one more regularly.

[Paul G.]

Rema Tip Top for me. German made. Used 'em for over 40 years, never failed. Yes, the big tube will last longer, but all tubes will evaporate the glue over time. Ebay ? No way.

[il padrone]

[kenwstr]

That photo is why I don't use patches anymore. Just use a tube of Seamgrip, work it into the puncture, dab the excess off with a tissue and leave it 24 hr before inflating. It just doesn't seem to be necessary to use patches and most repair kit glues are definitely in the D grade category anyway.

Ken

[Tim]

Just use a tube of Seamgrip, ...

That's a great idea. I'm surprised nobody else has suggested it.
I have a largish tube for camping gear repairs. REALLY sticky polyurethane glue.
It's the same technique used to repair some leaking inflatable mattresses, no patch, just glue.
Have you used it regularly?
While we're on the subject of patches. For fourty years I've been wondering how to peel the transparent backing plastic/paper off the patch once glued to the tube, without peeling the new patch off the tube? More recently (the last 20 years) I've not bothered removing the backing and it seems to work. On some patches the backing is perforated and just splits off the patch as it stretches on inflation, some don't.

[WhingingPom]

Just use a tube of Seamgrip, ...

That's a great idea. I'm surprised nobody else has suggested it.
I have a largish tube for camping gear repairs. REALLY sticky polyurethane glue.
It's the same technique used to repair some leaking inflatable mattresses, no patch, just glue.
Have you used it regularly?
While we're on the subject of patches. For fourty years I've been wondering how to peel the transparent backing plastic/paper off the patch once glued to the tube, without peeling the new patch off the tube? More recently (the last 20 years) I've not bothered removing the backing and it seems to work. On some patches the backing is perforated and just splits off the patch as it stretches on inflation, some don't.

I usually don't bother as it's slightly larger than the patch and provides more "protection" for the tyre from errant glue in case I don't chalk/talc the patch enough.