Veloflex Record tubular - where to buy

[mikesbytes]

The tyre arrived, now I have 3 days to master the art of changing it

[Thoglette]

The tyre arrived, now I have 3 days to master the art of changing it

Stay calm
and
check it's centered

[open roader]

Give it a 24hr hour stretch with heaps of air in it. Deflate the tyre so it just holds shape then begin with one glue layer on the rim and one on the fresh tyre tape, a single thin layer at a time - repeat this after another 24hrs. Then after another 24hrs after apply a glue layer just to the rim and fit the tyre up, inflate it a bit more whilst the glue is still viscose so you can centre it nicely then once centred inflate with plenty of pressure. Allow another day to pass for it to cure.

Like Thoglette said, stay calm and check that it's centred as it's the fitting stage that is the most crucial, the rest is mere hack work

[mikesbytes]

I've put it on for the 24 hour stretch. By what you guys are saying it looks like my time line is;
Wednesday - stretch
Thursday - glue on
Friday - tyre on
Saturday - race

Do I remove the existing glue? if so what do I remove it with? There doesn't seem to be a lot of it

[open roader]

Do I remove the existing glue? if so what do I remove it with? There doesn't seem to be a lot of it

I'd only remove it if it's uber brittle and flaking off in large sections, otherwise apply new glue over old- sounds counter intuitive but it works perfectly. I have removed some ancient glue from a pair of wheels using a diesel bath. I put a few litres into a long bath (actually a window planter box) and had my wheel in a cheap wheel truing stand which is my glue up stand. I allowed the rim to soak approx 8mm deep in the diesel for minutes at a time and gently rotated the entire rim circumframce through the bath. It softens the glue up enough to use a small wire brush or a super heavy duty scouring pad.

I repeat - only remove the old glue if it's like crystal amber and is losing rim adhesion.

If you are racing Sat. then why not put your first layer of glue on the rim now to get an extra layer done? The more glue you get on it the better esp. over an old application.

[mikesbytes]

the tyre is fitting pretty good, I get the feeling that stretching it isn't that important with this tyre/rim combo

The existing glue is good and there isn't a lot of it, I'll remove the tyre it and put the first layer of glue tonight

[softy]

Firstly I love veloflex tubulars,

Lovely tyres and one of the easiest to fit, usually no stretching required, unlike other tyres.

I have noticed they have disappeared of a few online bike shops, I will have to look hard next time I need to purchase. Ribble seems to be a good suggested site.

Now I know some say this is almost swearing, but I use tape. Why;
it stays sticky for the life, glue dries out
Can ride straight away
Quicker to install
Doesn't hurt carbon.
If i flat, the tape is sticker than old glue
Easier to get off on the side of the road (leave a gap opposite the valve)
Easier to centre
No spider web fingers
No stinky smell, so can do in my lounge room.
No removing old glue.

[softy]

Do I remove the existing glue? if so what do I remove it with? There doesn't seem to be a lot of it

I'd only remove it if it's uber brittle and flaking off in large sections, otherwise apply new glue over old- sounds counter intuitive but it works perfectly. I have removed some ancient glue from a pair of wheels using a diesel bath. I put a few litres into a long bath (actually a window planter box) and had my wheel in a cheap wheel truing stand which is my glue up stand. I allowed the rim to soak approx 8mm deep in the diesel for minutes at a time and gently rotated the entire rim circumframce through the bath. It softens the glue up enough to use a small wire brush or a super heavy duty scouring pad.

I repeat - only remove the old glue if it's like crystal amber and is losing rim adhesion.

If you are racing Sat. then why not put your first layer of glue on the rim now to get an extra layer done? The more glue you get on it the better esp. over an old application.

My research says something different, to maintian a low rolling resistance a number of very thin layers are the key. This takes time, if you are going to apply thick layers or glue over the old without removing most back to a thin layer then you may as well run tape. The only advantage glue has over tape is a slightly lower rolling resistance, if the application is thick and not nice thin layers there is no advantage to glue.

[softy]

I've put it on for the 24 hour stretch. By what you guys are saying it looks like my time line is;
Wednesday - stretch
Thursday - glue on
Friday - tyre on
Saturday - race

Do I remove the existing glue? if so what do I remove it with? There doesn't seem to be a lot of it

Heat gun and a rag, I find this the easiest way to remove glue. Just work around the rim slowly. You don't need to remove all of it, just so a nice thin layer remains. Then apply the glue as thinly as possible allow to dry. Then another. I use to do two or three coats on the rim using a rag, then one using a brush on the tyre, some tyres need two as it soaks in.

[open roader]

My research says something different, to maintian a low rolling resistance a number of very thin layers are the key. This takes time

If you had taken the time to read the thread you will note that I mentioned this exactly above....

then begin with one glue layer on the rim and one on the fresh tyre tape, a single thin layer at a time

O.P. is racing on Saturday so no time for the 4 layers I'd be applying to my own rims - however, I have 5 tubular wheelsets and 4 road bikes so I'm fortunate not be be rushing anything.

Heat gun and a rag

Please don't come near my wheels with that..........

[Thoglette]

The only advantage glue has over tape is

....that you only have to remove it once in a blue moon! Usually even ugly glue can be sorted out with a quick sand or some solvent.

Removing tape every time a tyre comes off?

[softy]

Heat gun and a rag

Please don't come near my wheels with that..........[/quote]

You may scoff, but this technique I got introduced too by one of the employees at a high end respected cycle shop in my city, it works very well.

[softy]

The only advantage glue has over tape is

....that you only have to remove it once in a blue moon! Usually even ugly glue can be sorted out with a quick sand or some solvent.

Removing tape every time a tyre comes off?

I have tried both, I prefer tape, but everyone to their own.

[Thoglette]

I have tried both, I prefer tape, but everyone to their own.

Which one do you use? I suspect oils ain't oils - my only run in with tape (a long time ago) was unpleasant. Once bitten and all that ...

[softy]

I use the velox jantex, it is not as easy to apply as the tufo, but it is alot cheaper as it does two wheels. Also it is alot thinner and lighter.

The only problem with this tape is you need to use the pencil method as the backing tape breaks easily, and then you need to move the tyre to start it again, mucking up your centring. The tufo backing tape you can just pull hard it won't break, so installation is much easier. I don't like the tufo tape as it is thick and tends to spread under the tyre and rim after use as it is thick and gluggy. The velox is thin and keeps its shape.

Some love the tufo, I love the velox.

Tyres I have found are very personal thing for riders.

[singlespeedscott]

I was lead to believe that tape is a no no for the track.

I don't understand the build up of the mystic of applying tubular glue. Three layers is more than enough IMO. Watching videos of the protour mechanics and it looks like they only use one?

[open roader]

I was lead to believe that tape is a no no for the track.

I don't understand the build up of the mystic of applying tubular glue. Three layers is more than enough IMO. Watching videos of the protour mechanics and it looks like they only use one?

Maybe just one on a pre-glued replacement tyre and a rim with x/y/z layers of glue already on the rim.

One can ride on an unglued tubular - I have been in this situation now and found that at noraml inflation the tyre hardly moves if you watch the valve as a guide to slippage. Admittedly I did not hang it around the corners but it was a 33km 'save' either way. Chances are one layer of glue on tyre and rim would also suffice under most conditions but I for one would certainly never intentionally ride off without my preferred 4 layer technique.

Please don't come near my wheels with that..........

You may scoff, but this technique I got introduced too by one of the employees at a high end respected cycle shop in my city, it works very well.[/quote]

I'm now scoffing less - how much heat does your gun pack? I'd be scared of overheating the resins in carbon rims and ruining any manufacturer applied heat treatment in alloy rims.

[softy]

I was lead to believe that tape is a no no for the track.

I don't understand the build up of the mystic of applying tubular glue. Three layers is more than enough IMO. Watching videos of the protour mechanics and it looks like they only use one?

Maybe just one on a pre-glued replacement tyre and a rim with x/y/z layers of glue already on the rim.

One can ride on an unglued tubular - I have been in this situation now and found that at noraml inflation the tyre hardly moves if you watch the valve as a guide to slippage. Admittedly I did not hang it around the corners but it was a 33km 'save' either way. Chances are one layer of glue on tyre and rim would also suffice under most conditions but I for one would certainly never intentionally ride off without my preferred 4 layer technique.

Please don't come near my wheels with that..........

You may scoff, but this technique I got introduced too by one of the employees at a high end respected cycle shop in my city, it works very well.

I'm now scoffing less - how much heat does your gun pack? I'd be scared of overheating the resins in carbon rims and ruining any manufacturer applied heat treatment in alloy rims.[/quote]

Of course you don't hold it right on the carbon rim (I have zipps), but warm the glue in small spots till it becomes semi liquid, put your finger pointed in the rag (a few layers as it is hot) and wipe. The glue is absorded by the rag, leaving a nice thin layer of glue to apply the new coat. Repeat till you work your way around the rim.

If you want super glued tyres (used by MTB and cyclocross that run super low pressures) put on a layer of glue to the rim and tyre and then use tape. This really sticks your tyre on! I do believe it is called the "belguim" method. Fun to play with different techniques.

[softy]

Riding on a unglued (not properly) rim is pretty safe, I have done it many times. Of couse you don't try and scrape pedals!
Once inflated, a unglued tyres is pretty hard to remove, and remember you will still have some stickiness from the previous aplication of glues. Also the spare should have one layer, pre glued to help adhesion.

This is why I like tubulars, the spare tyre fitted is all new. No old tyre, no sharp article still hanging in the tyre to puncture another tube, no sidewall lashers that can't be repaired. It is new!

AND at a pinch you can ride on a flat tubular, doesn't feel good and take it easy, but can get you home. It may be a good idea to turf that tyre when you get home though.

[singlespeedscott]

I'm now scoffing less - how much heat does your gun pack? I'd be scared of overheating the resins in carbon rims and ruining any manufacturer applied heat treatment in alloy rims.

In regards to heating the rim to remove the old glue, according to Reynolds, it is a no no and they suggest using acetone with a scotch brite pad.

Also found this pdf on the Reynolds site on mounting singles to their carbon rims -

https://reynoldscycling.com/uploads/rey ... .tires.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[mikesbytes]

The new tyre worked well today. I'm feeling a lot more confident about gluing singles in the future.

I'm thinking another learning exercise will be to patch the punctured single, which appears to of been a victim of a safety pin.

[open roader]

he new tyre worked well today. I'm feeling a lot more confident about gluing singles in the future

Great news!

Re- repair, I know it can be done but (touch wood) I'm still waiting to try my own cut, patch and shut job.

[Thoglette]

I'm thinking another learning exercise will be to patch the punctured single, which appears to of been a victim of a safety pin.

a) check that it's actually sewn (some of the cheap ones are no longer repairable)
b) check you have all the bits at hand. My last repair is still waiting for me to get some more latex glue to re-attach the tape - for some years

[softy]

I have tried the acetone scotchbrite method, if this floats your boat.

But, I really hate this method, acetone is a powerful product to breathe and have in contact with your skin, if Reynolds say it doesn't hurt the rim so be it, but it attacks most products. You just can't use this product inside! So you need a very well ventilated area, where spillage is not an issue. I personally can't use it as it effects my skin and gloves also aggravate my skin as well. I found out the hard way......

With the heat gun, worse that can happen is a burn, you can easily do it inside with a drop sheet, little smell and relatively clean with no liquid to spill or drop on floor coverings. So watching TV is a option.
Rims have brake surfaces that are designed to accomadate heat so I don't believe it is that bad. Anyway I was advised by people that know a lot more than me.

[softy]

he new tyre worked well today. I'm feeling a lot more confident about gluing singles in the future

Great news!

Re- repair, I know it can be done but (touch wood) I'm still waiting to try my own cut, patch and shut job.

If it is only a pin hole I would try stans or something similar first, opening a tubular, repairing and sewn back up is not so easy. The tubulars take a little practice to get neat when sewning up and you just can't use any thread, once pressure is applied the stitching can break if it not the proper stuff. As I said, try some sealant first. They work remarkable well. Repair kits (velox) with the proper thread aren't so easy to get, I have a few kits, but you still need to source the latex.