Veloflex Record tubular - where to buy

[Thoglette]

Repair kits (velox) with the proper thread aren't so easy to get, I have a few kits, but you still need to source the latex.

Yellow Jersey in the US seems to be the only place stocking that sort of stuff

+1 for stans for a simple puncture.

[ValleyForge]

Never had any luck repairing any of my Veloflex tyres. I can never be the backing tape off. The other brands it will peel back, but not on the Veloflex. On the other hand, Caffelatex has doubled the life of my tubulars.

[mikesbytes]

So I should try Stains. Will it work when the tyre isn't on a wheel?

[softy]

These goops are amazing, don't under estimate there ability. Once they seal, you can ride on them forever. I once inspected an old tyre and the stans was set hard but with a slight flexibility. If you try to pick it out it is dam near impossible.

The only thing that you need to watch is don't let it sit in the valve stem, especially if you have extensions on deep rims! Extensions have a much thinner section through them and the goop sees it a a puncture hole and seals it. Cleaning them out is a bad job with a tiny drill, as a pin will not penertrate it!

So remember to rotate your tyres regularly (if it is a competition bike that may sit for some time) and don't let the valve sitting anywhere the goop can settle in the valve stem. 4 -5 o'clock and 6 -7 o'clock are best!

Needs to be on a wheel, insert the recommended amount and pump up, the air pushes the goop into the hole. Hold the hole at the bottom, it may spray for a little while, while it seals. So do outside.
Good luck, I don't think you will need it. Also don't leave goop in a flat tyre, it will stick it together, no more tyre.

[mikesbytes]

I don't have a spare single rim to put it on and its a latex tube, so it will go flat fairly quickly

[snortin]

Aaaannnd just to bring it back around to original topic, Ribble have a sale on Veloflex Corsa at the moment - twinpack for $80.
HOWEVER it states that they are NOT to be used on carbon rims.. Anyone with a reason why I can ignore this and just purchase for my 3T Mercurio 60mm carbon rims???? Are these tubs or clinchers - description is very confusing...

ps Record still at the same price of $103 each

edited to add Record price

[mikesbytes]

Interesting. I wonder if its to do with impregnated glue? Another guess could be that they want to sell to the bottom end of the market while not killing their top end sales

[ironhanglider]

Aaaannnd just to bring it back around to original topic, Ribble have a sale on Veloflex Corsa at the moment - twinpack for $80.
HOWEVER it states that they are NOT to be used on carbon rims.. Anyone with a reason why I can ignore this and just purchase for my 3T Mercurio 60mm carbon rims???? Are these tubs or clinchers - description is very confusing...

ps Record still at the same price of $103 each

edited to add Record price

Corsas are "Open Tubulars" otherwise known as clinchers.

I really dislike the "Open Tubular" terminology.

Cheers,

Cameron

[ironhanglider]

I don't have a spare single rim to put it on and its a latex tube, so it will go flat fairly quickly

I think that you are between a rock and a hard place with the old tyre. If you use the goop you will be subjected to a lifetime of maintenance, keeping it inflated and rotated even if it was not being used on a regular basis. If you don't you will run the risk of ruining the tyre.

Repairing it may not work if it is as difficult to get the backing tape off as ValleyForge suggests. However if you can get past that first hurdle then you can work your way through the rest of the process to have it as a spare. If it doesn't work then you run the risk of ruining the tyre.

At the risk of overcapitalising, if you could justify another rear wheel (race/warm-up/disc) or just for the sake of having another gear to choose from, you could mount the tyre with goop in it and use that. Then if the goop fails you have a spare at hand to use.

Cheers,

Cameron

[Thoglette]

I think that you are between a rock and a hard place with the old tyre.

Agreed.

Put glue on it, fold it up and store it in your saddlebag along with the goop.

And then stop worrying about it.

If your next puncture is a simple hole, put goop in the mounted tyre. If it's a gash, put the spare on and then goop it.

[singlespeedscott]

Aaaannnd just to bring it back around to original topic, Ribble have a sale on Veloflex Corsa at the moment - twinpack for $80.
HOWEVER it states that they are NOT to be used on carbon rims.. Anyone with a reason why I can ignore this and just purchase for my 3T Mercurio 60mm carbon rims???? Are these tubs or clinchers - description is very confusing...

ps Record still at the same price of $103 each

edited to add Record price

Corsas are "Open Tubulars" otherwise known as clinchers.

I really dislike the "Open Tubular" terminology.

Cheers,

Cameron

these are proper singles not clinchers. A very good buy. To bad there the black sidewall version.

[mikesbytes]

Repairing the punctured single is a learning opportunity, but its sounding like this brand/model is not the one to learn on.

There is stitching on the rim tape, but that doesn't necessarily mean that what's underneath isn't glued.

The way around not having a tubular wheel would be to borrow one off someone in my club, there are a couple of retro collectors in the club who buy all sorts of parts on ebay for an assortment of half finished projects, shouldn't be too hard to find one. However what happens if I put gunk in it to fix the flat and then deflate it and fold it?

[open roader]

Aaaannnd just to bring it back around to original topic, Ribble have a sale on Veloflex Corsa at the moment - twinpack for $80.
HOWEVER it states that they are NOT to be used on carbon rims.. Anyone with a reason why I can ignore this and just purchase for my 3T Mercurio 60mm carbon rims???? Are these tubs or clinchers - description is very confusing...

ps Record still at the same price of $103 each

edited to add Record price

These twin packs on special are actually clincher tyres

A quote from the Ribble Advert :- "All-purpose open tubular that will give you more than you can expect from a clincher tyre"

The not for use on carbon rims is about the way some carbon clincher rims are manufactured with a sharp bead edge which has worn into the carcass of this Veloflex model. It's a legal warning they have attached to this product in an attempt to cover their backside in case of a failure from this known issue and all the legal bulldust that comes with a claim etc. The tyres are rated to 145psi and I guess they have had issues with certain carbon rims chewing into the walls of the tyres - an issue that they either cannot re-tool for or just want to put a legal band-aid onto.

There are some of threads online from here and there with riders ignoring this warning and having no issues but these riders of course, may not have their tyres mounted onto the offending rim design/s.

Caveat Emptor.

[ironhanglider]

Repairing the punctured single is a learning opportunity, but its sounding like this brand/model is not the one to learn on.

There is stitching on the rim tape, but that doesn't necessarily mean that what's underneath isn't glued.

The way around not having a tubular wheel would be to borrow one off someone in my club, there are a couple of retro collectors in the club who buy all sorts of parts on ebay for an assortment of half finished projects, shouldn't be too hard to find one. However what happens if I put gunk in it to fix the flat and then deflate it and fold it?

I've not seen stitching on rim tape before, but I have seen a dashed line printed on it before that looks a bit like it.

My fear for putting goop in a tube and then allowing the sides of the tube to come in contact with each other (such as by folding it or letting it deflate whilst resting on the ground) is that the goop will effectively glue the sides of the tube together. If this happens, there is a risk that when you inflate the tube again that it will tear itself apart. (This is only secondhand information because I don't use the stuff.)

My understanding is that Thoglette was suggesting having the goop, with the tyre ready to go, but not inserted into the tube until there is a need for it. When you get your next puncture you then decide which tyre to put it in, depending on the severity of the damage. From memory these are for track tyres, so there is less of a likelihood of severe gash destroying a tyre. In any case if the safety pin theory is true then it should be the sort of hole that goop will manage.

However: if you want to try patching the tube then it helps to find where the hole is before you start peeling the base tape off. It is easier to cut the base tape and only lift as much as you need to (10cm will do) since glueing half a tyre's worth back down is a pain. The same goes for cutting stitching, less is more. Once you've opened it up you can pull enough of the tube out to expose the working area.

Finding the hole can be fun, usually the tube pulls away from the tyre when deflated, so that when it is re-inflated the holes in the tube and the carcass don't line up. This means that the air will go between the tube and the carcass and most of it will choose to escape from the base of the valve where the biggest hole is, however there will be a tiny amount that comes out through the original hole.

Cheers,

Cameron

Cheers,

Cameron

[softy]

I think that you are between a rock and a hard place with the old tyre.

Agreed.

Put glue on it, fold it up and store it in your saddlebag along with the goop.

And then stop worrying about it.

If your next puncture is a simple hole, put goop in the mounted tyre. If it's a gash, put the spare on and then goop it.

This is what I was going to suggest, keep the tyre till you want to use it, then hit it with the sealant.

As for corsa, it is just an italian word for run, sprint etc. Just a name, for instance; "all seasons"

As for open tubular and tubular (as they are advertised), open tubular is just a fancy name for clincher, whilst tubular is a TUBULAR!

Be careful buying on line, open tubulars can be alot cheaper than the identical tubular. So double check your orders.

[Strawburger]

I stretch my tubs on old clincher rims. Seems to work fine

[softy]

I stretch my tubs on old clincher rims. Seems to work fine

Yep that works, another option.

[mikesbytes]

Repairing the punctured single is a learning opportunity, but its sounding like this brand/model is not the one to learn on.

There is stitching on the rim tape, but that doesn't necessarily mean that what's underneath isn't glued.

The way around not having a tubular wheel would be to borrow one off someone in my club, there are a couple of retro collectors in the club who buy all sorts of parts on ebay for an assortment of half finished projects, shouldn't be too hard to find one. However what happens if I put gunk in it to fix the flat and then deflate it and fold it?

I've not seen stitching on rim tape before, but I have seen a dashed line printed on it before that looks a bit like it.

My fear for putting goop in a tube and then allowing the sides of the tube to come in contact with each other (such as by folding it or letting it deflate whilst resting on the ground) is that the goop will effectively glue the sides of the tube together. If this happens, there is a risk that when you inflate the tube again that it will tear itself apart. (This is only secondhand information because I don't use the stuff.)

My understanding is that Thoglette was suggesting having the goop, with the tyre ready to go, but not inserted into the tube until there is a need for it. When you get your next puncture you then decide which tyre to put it in, depending on the severity of the damage. From memory these are for track tyres, so there is less of a likelihood of severe gash destroying a tyre. In any case if the safety pin theory is true then it should be the sort of hole that goop will manage.

However: if you want to try patching the tube then it helps to find where the hole is before you start peeling the base tape off. It is easier to cut the base tape and only lift as much as you need to (10cm will do) since glueing half a tyre's worth back down is a pain. The same goes for cutting stitching, less is more. Once you've opened it up you can pull enough of the tube out to expose the working area.

Finding the hole can be fun, usually the tube pulls away from the tyre when deflated, so that when it is re-inflated the holes in the tube and the carcass don't line up. This means that the air will go between the tube and the carcass and most of it will choose to escape from the base of the valve where the biggest hole is, however there will be a tiny amount that comes out through the original hole.

Cheers,

Cameron

Cheers,

Cameron

I've had a look at it under the light and it appears to be stitched and glued. I'll have a look again in the daylight as the residue rim glue makes it difficult to see

Not such a bad idea cutting the rim tape to get to the flat, does the tyre go all the way around, or is it glued/stitched to each edge of the rim tape? If so, then I could cut the middle of the tape while somehow not accidentally cutting the tube and stitch it up afterwards.

Or am I simply pushing the boundary and should simple give the tyre away to one of the retro guys, to add to their half finished projects? Then again would the tyre be period correct?

[ironhanglider]

This picture (you may need to hit the 'more about' button) makes it look like a pretty standard tubular construction to me.

There is no evidence of the "External Cotton Ribbon" being stitched on, although the "Internal Polyester Ribbon" is usually held on with very fine thread. My money is still on the backing tape being glued on in some form. For some tyres like Vittoria, that bond is so strong that it seems to damage the carcass when you pull it up. As I understand it the primary role of the base tape is to protect the stitching from being cut by the edges of the spoke holes. Foo passed a comment some time ago that he used to just pull it off, which I could understand if you were patching the tube several times during the life of the tyre, such as if you were riding on tubulars all the time for commuting/training etc.

The picture also shows the main stitching which holds the carcass together. This is the stitching which needs to be re-sewn when you reassemble the tyre. It would be exceedingly difficult if not impossible to re-sew the carcass together with the backing tape still in place.

The alternative of giving it away would no doubt make someone very happy, but would deprive you of a learning opportunity and the satisfaction of doing the job properly.

Cheers,

Cameron

[mikesbytes]

This morning I did the Calga ITT and 2k from the finish I hit a pot hole and pinch flatted both Singles, which includes the new one

So I'm in the market for 2 new singles, this time they can be any brand/model as I'm changing both

[open roader]

I hit a pot hole and pinch flatted both Singles, which includes the new one

NOOOOOOOOO!.............

Heck what a calamity............

I have a brand new stretched but unglued pair of Vittoria SC Corsa Evo Classics in 23mm............

[mikesbytes]

I thought one of the features of singles was that they didn't pinch flat. Got that wrong

[open roader]

Any tyre system featuring an inner tube is going to pinch out if it's hammered into a hard, sharp edged obstacle like a pothole lip.

Most top end tubulars are manufactured with latex inner tubes which shift inside the tyre carcass more smoothly than a butyl inner tube. The silky surface of a latex tube caresses the inner tyre where as a dry butyl surface rubs up against the inner tyre carcass. This smoother interaction of latex against the tyre carcass is less likely to grab and bundle up (ie pinch) when subjected to a sudden localised impact. Running latex inner tubes with clincher tyres is an attempt to attain the same smooth rolling charactoristics of a latex fitted tubular.

Tubular tyre's closed / sew up design inherantly allow lower pressures to be used which offers better vibration absorbtion and also better pinching flat resistance as a tube inflated to a lower pressure will accomodate a rapid shape change better in a stunning impact/blow like hitting a steep edged pothole compared to a tightly inflated tube.

Tubular tyres have some benefits over other tyre combinations but at the end of the day they are just another tyre system with pros and cons like any other tyre system. A double pinch is a rare beast as far as my experience goes, very unlucky if not statistically a very long shot.

How much do you weigh? / what pressures were you running? / how sharp edged was the cursed pothole?

I think you may need to look to lower your tubular tyre pressures and hit the course again. If it occurs again then maybe tubulars are too expensive to continually blowing and clinchers with their lower cost and slightly easier inner tube portability and on road change over are your best bet?

[mikesbytes]

The singles are latex

The issue would not of been inflation, the issue was the sharpness of the pothole. It was on the flat so I would of been doing about 45kph when I hit it and it took a while to slow to a stop with 2 flat tyres without falling off.

By that time I was more concerned with getting back to car than going back to look at the hole, took my shoes and socks off and walked barefoot towards the car. After about a 1/2K Paul Craft turned up in his car and gave me a lift

[open roader]

The singles are latex

The issue would not of been inflation, the issue was the sharpness of the pothole. It was on the flat so I would of been doing about 45kph when I hit it

I think either clinchers or tubulars would give up the ghost with such an impact.

Pulling up safely after a front goes is bad enough let alone popping both ends at once......... yikes!