Should I buy new or second hand?

[alexhunter123711]

I am weighing up whether I should buy a new or second hand bike, after my last bike failed, causing a bad stack (cheap brand) even though it was bought new, so I am only going to buy well regarded brands now, a bit hesitant to buy 2nd hand though, as hard to know how safe it would be, but buying new from lbs is going to cost a lot more. Any advice/ suggestions?

[battler2]

definitely new. you don't know what problems you are buying into unless you're absolutely sure you know it's being sold as owner surplus. even then....

benefits of new:
+warranty
+frame structural integrity
+no scratches or nicks (no 2nd hand bike is perfect)
+new, unworn parts for max life of each component
+assembled properly, gears tuned etc.
+freedom of choice, not just what is available

benefits of 2nd hand:
+possible bargain

[mikaelkn]

By the sound of it you'll probably need something that's tougher. Titanium frame sounds about right. Should last into post apocalypse

[alexhunter123711]

Thanks guys, am leaning towards new, would titanium be necessary? And what bikes are titanium?

[Bunged Knee]

And what bikes are titanium?

http://www.bikeradar.com/au/gear/articl ... ium-35183/

[softy]

I sit on the secondhand side of the fence,

Bikes devalue so fast, much quicker than cars, many people buy bikes and have good intentions then loose interest. Just need to look with a keen eye, you can pick up real bargains, especially in the upper priced market, bikes can be literally thousands cheaper and have been hardly ridden.

Of course you don't get the latest and greatest, but is that an issue?

[battler2]

it doesn't look like he knows what to look for in a 2nd hand bike re: damage, possible failures, component wear etc. so it's probably a good idea he doesn't buy 2nd hand. period.

he posted another thread talking about warranty and replacement, but doesn't state the name of the brand, or how it failed.

he might he a very heavy rider, in which case superlight carbon isn't really suitable. titanium could be, but steel would do just as well and be much cheaper. best he goes into a reputable LBS and gets help to find a bike that he would be happy with and not break on him, and has decent warranty if it does.

[AUbicycles]

Titanium is not necessary... but it is nice. For heavier riders it is worth checking weight requirements (frames / wheels) and eventually consider more robust options.

The decision to buy second hand or new would be dictated by your confidence in know exactly what you are getting. This can come from your experience with bikes and also whether you are buying from a friend or a complete stranger. As Battler2 lists, you can get a good deal on a second hand, but with a new bike there is also plenty of security.

You also don't necessarily to buy the latest / newest model unless you are going for an olympic record or other competitive accomplishment. so worth keeping in mind bike with good deals or even 'floor stock' (though generally in a bike shop, bikes are floor stock).

Returning to your last bike, if it failed and was used correctly and was a manufacture / assembly issue, then you can exercise a warranty claim.

[alexhunter123711]

Not a heavy rider, around 65kg's. I'm a bit hesitant to name the brand name of the old bike that failed until the issue is resolved, it failed while I was riding on a flat road, it would be easier if I could post pictures but basically the part of the fork that goes up through to meet the handlebars literally snapped, came apart.

[softy]

Some brands had problems around the crank area, I heard a few went back on warranty. They were replace by the manufacture the ones I saw. So good support, and they mostly got the updated model.

As for LBS I don't know if I would put my adsolute faith in them, I have had so much shoddy work I had to do my own work out of necessity. I am still looking for a good one.

There is so many options in bikes, so many bike shops, brands and models, if you really want new, I would go to heaps of shops and look for ones that are old models that have been sitting on there floor. Don't be so brand specific as they are all built to a price point. Old models they really want to move them and you can get big discounts. Even interstate shops, look on bike xchange. I have seen top end bikes with durace and upper end ally wheels for 3 to 4k. That is cheap new, only last years models or the year before. So look with a keen eye.

[ColinOldnCranky]

On Saturday I replaced my 23 year old multigym with a far more serious bit of kit off Gum Tree. Current new price is $4,700. I took it for the advertised price of $500. It's in perfect knick other than missing one 4mm bolt and a single item of non-functioning facia.

If you can match that deal I think the answer is obvious.

[Metrogizual]

I think both have positives. With a new bike you are the only one to own it, you are responsible for every mark on it and there is something nice about riding a new bike, like a new car smell I guess hehe. But at the same time it will also cost you more. You will get better value for money going down the second hand path. It doesn't mean the bike will fail, or there is anything wrong with it, you use get better value for money.

[rodneycc]

I've bought most of my bikes secondhand and I'm no expert. I usually take a good look at the frame and then take the bike to my LBS for a $50 checkover for piece of mind (also the odd adjustment). Got a few bargains I reckon over the last few years.

[softy]

I've bought most of my bikes secondhand and I'm no expert. I usually take a good look at the frame and then take the bike to my LBS for a $50 checkover for piece of mind (also the odd adjustment). Got a few bargains I reckon over the last few years.

Very good advice, get a professional opinion.

Secondhand can really save you, or get you into a significant better bike.

[ironhanglider]

Buying new or secondhand is similar to gambling.

You get more favourable odds with secondhand, but you also have a higher chance of getting burned. You can minimise this by being knowledgeable, or by obtaining the opinion of someone who is (even if it means paying them to do so).

If you don't have the expertise, (or the chance to exercise it, such as with an internet transaction) then it really is a case of rolling the dice.

Sometimes your luck pays off, sometimes it doesn't.

Certainly knowing your stuff is important. If you can do some basic research and discover that a 2 year old bike is being sold for 1/3 of the new price then it sounds good, but I'd still be checking to see that the wheels are straight, and that the frame hasn't been bent before handing over any money.

Cheers,

Cameron

[alexhunter123711]

Thanks for the advice/ info guys, I've come across a cannondale adventurer for $350, anyone familiar with these and/ or think this is a good commuter bike and decent price?

[alexhunter123711]

I have come across a second hand 2012 Trek DS 8.4 bike that has done 13,500 'commuting and touring' Is this too many k's to consider buying it? Or will it not matter that much as long as its in good condition? Also the size is 17.5, would that be too small for someone 179cm?

Here's the ad

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/mount-sh ... 1085781483" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Thoglette]

I have come across a second hand 2012 Trek DS 8.4 bike that has done 13,500 'commuting and touring' Is this too many k's to consider buying it? Or will it not matter that much as long as its in good condition?

Barely worn in!

Don't know about forks but the chain, cassette and front sprockets are likely to need replacing (ask if/when they were done last) It looks like the vendor has a new cassette to throw in - which is the expensive bit.

On forks, look for leaks and damage to the seals & shiny bits they slide on

[AUbicycles]

Seems to be ok. For sizing, generally for your height you would go for a slightly bigger bike. That said for MTB there are a few others who can chip in, particularly on how much you can adjust it for comfort.

On the bike style, the Trek in the gumtree add is something I would call a hybrid, a versatile bike which can suit prepared trails and cruising about. You could commute but it may not be the first choice. If you were planning on frequently riding longer distances - i.e. 10km + and knew you were just on seal paths and roads then I would go for a 'commuting' bike. It is about your seated position and comfort.

Disc brakes are not vital, but it has flat handlebars (so is not a road bike) and a horizontal top tube - plus built on (or possible to build on) accessories such as a rack at the back.

The first image is the Cannondale Adventurer which you referenced.



This grey trek is what I would call a commuter / city bike. In Europe this could be a Touring bike, in Australia however a touring bike is closer to a road bike (i.e. drop bars).




And just to show some differences, this is a slower bike. Less gears and sweeping handlebars. Shorter cruisey urban cycling.



And this is a Hybrid (though put some knobbly tyres on it and it is a Hardtail MTB)

[alexhunter123711]

Thanks for your reply, appreciate it I've been looking at touring bikes now and like the look of the surly bikes; long haul trucker etc. looks like a really sturdy bike, but really expensive, not many 2nd hand ones around either. Just can't make up my mind on what to get!

[alexhunter123711]

Another one I've come across is a surly cross check frame and fork only, for $400; how much do you think the rest of the components and labour would cost?

[AUbicycles]

Surly are assume bikes, I met and drank beer with the Surly guys in Germany.

For the rest of the gear, it depends upon the level of equipment. If you started dirt cheap with second hand, it would be possible to keep it under $500 for the gear and labor however for new I would be calculating $1000. Once again, depends on the level / price of each of the parts - wheels, groupset, bits and pieces.