More low range at low cost?

[OldBloke]

The change to a 22T at the front worked for me because the cage on the front derailleur was long enough to cope, and its on a recumbent with an idler cog between front and rear so cassette cog height doesn't affect it. I eye-balled chain alignments carefully before making the change.
If I'm wrong blame Tapatalk.

[am50em]

http://www.this link is broken/au/e ... prod106885

[find_bruce]

http://www.this link is broken/au/e ... prod106885

Out of stock.

I was in a similar position and what I did was spend the extra $8 and went with deore m590 48 36 26 was right for my needs, but it also comes in 44 32 22.

To be honest though, as long as the crank has removable chain-rings (mine didn't) I would spend $12.50 on a 22t & see if that solved the problem, being aware of the point sharkey makes

[ironhanglider]

Despite my pointing out the potential pitfalls, I'm also in the just put on a new chainring camp. But I have been putting up with sub-optimal shifting for so long (straight chainrings without shifting aids, out of spec combinations etc) that I am confident that I have the mechanical sensitivity to make it work.

I've also experienced the issues Sharkey points out, and as mentioned that issue goes away if you are not using the smallest cogs. I always try to avoid the small ring unless I need it, and if I need it I won't be using the smallest cogs.

Yes, do a test ride first, and if on the real thing you find yourself caught in too big a gear when fully loaded in traffic, there is always the option of a controlled stop and walking that bit rather than risk a dodgy change. After a couple of rides you will know where the critical points are.

Cheers,

Cameron

[RonK]

I'm moving to a (very) hilly area.

Where you're going a fairing might be better value.

[am50em]

In stock at http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shi ... r-ec046437" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; if want to go for complete replacement. I actually went the other way going from 22-32-44 (cheap fixed chain rings were worn out)to Alvio 28-38-48 but went from 7 speed 11-28 to 8 speed 11-30 and this works well on the hills.

[Thoglette]

Sure but I'm going to be need of a wheel rebuild, shifter for that hub etc, right?

True - wheel rebuild will cost some $ if you're not doing it yourself but not as much as much as a fancy new derailleurs, cassette and front crank + rings. But only an option if you get the hub cheaply

[Espresso_]

So I finally got around to installing the new crankset. I pull the cranks off, and I find its a bloody SQUARE TAPER BB.

Off to buy an Octalink BB to suit the new crankset.

E

[Espresso_]

[Acera is available in both square taper and Octalink splined forms, just note which one you currently have & get a new one of the same type.

OK so I stuffed up - as per previous post I guessed I had an Octalink when I actually had a square taper (which I have now removed from the bike).

Easier and cheaper to just buy an Octalink BB than to return the crankset, but there are 10,000 types of Octalink bottom brackets. I have a 68mm shell, and the M361 (8 Speed) crankset. Any tips on which Shimano Octalink BB I need?

I'm guessing an 126mm, but I guessed last time and got that wrong...

E

[Duck!]

The box the crankset came in should tell you what length bottom bracket is needed. Any Shimano ES-series Octalink BB in the appropriate length will work.

EDIT: A dig through Shimano product specs tells me that you do indeed need a 68x126mm ES-series BB.

[Bentnose]

You may also need a new chain and cassette if your bike has had a bit of use, you'd notice it most on the small chainring.

I sized a chain a little short as it was out of spec with a 26/36/48 and an 11-36 cassette, accidently managed to change into the 48-36 gear and locked up the whole drivetrain, had to take the back wheel off to free it up, when I undid the quick release the wheel virtually jumped off the bike. I've since added a 2nd quicklink and more links.

[Derny Driver]

EDIT: A dig through Shimano product specs tells me that you do indeed need a 68x126mm ES-series BB.

You're a good bloke Duck. So lucky to have you on this forum.
How many people have you bailed out over the years...

[Espresso_]

You may also need a new chain and cassette if your bike has had a bit of use, you'd notice it most on the small chainring.

Yep - got a new chain lying around, but the cassette hasn't seen enough use since the last change for me to worry.

E

[Thoglette]

You're a good bloke Duck. So lucky to have you on this forum.

Derny and I don't always agree but on this I'm 100% with him. Your posts are always worth reading.

So let me also say "Thanks" - it's most appreciated.

[Duck!]

How many people have you bailed out over the years...

One or two....

[Espresso_]

The box the crankset came in should tell you what length bottom bracket is needed. Any Shimano ES-series Octalink BB in the appropriate length will work.

EDIT: A dig through Shimano product specs tells me that you do indeed need a 68x126mm ES-series BB.

Ok all sorted, finally, and with much thanks to Duck!

After the bottom bracket incident, I found that the front derailleur wouldn't push the chain out enough to reliably engage the big ring. Nor would it shift reliably from the big to the middle ring.

So in another case of the women that swallowed a fly I bought a new Acera front derailleur, installed it and it works perfectly. And given these things cost $15, it was well worth it.

Low, low range achieved.

Thanks Duck

E