Hybrid upgrades
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Hybrid upgrades
Postby Ballmead » Sun Jan 17, 2016 3:58 pm
The group set consists of the following : SR Suntour XCE triple crank 48/38/28 with Shimano MTB Acera 8 speed derailleurs on both ends and an 11-34T cassette.
It's a nice bike but I want to make the bike lighter/faster and more path/road suitable.
So far I have removed the stock 700 x 38c tyres and replaced them with Continental Ultra Sport II's in 700 x 28C.
I was also thinking of going to a 10 speed mainly Shimano 105 groupset (105 compact 50-34T crank, 105 derailleurs on both ends, Tiagra flatbar shifters and an Ultega 12-30 cassette/chain combo.
Now I can hear you all saying: "don't waste your money buy a new bike instead" but the missus won't hear of it as I only bought it a couple of months ago.
The parts however, I can buy and install myself over time without the missus noticing
So I suppose my question is: Will these road parts make the bike much lighter/faster or am I kidding myself?
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby mitzikatzi » Sun Jan 17, 2016 4:39 pm
Bike will be a fraction lighter but I don't think you would notice a speed increase due to weight loss.
Nice components make a bike nicer to ride.
Rotating mass is where biggest gains are. Tyres you have done. Wheels might make a bit of a difference.
Your bike do as you wish.
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby softy » Sun Jan 17, 2016 4:43 pm
i know your misses my chuck a sadie, but this would be the best option. You will spend a small fortune changing all that stuff.
Gumtree you can pick up some real bargains, keep the old bike and get a another one.
i sold a really good specced cervelo soloist with fulcum zero and near new sram force for 1200.
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby chriso_29er » Sun Jan 17, 2016 4:52 pm
You have already done tyres, I dont think doing the groupset will make a noticable difference to speed but (may) make it change gears even nicer.
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby koshari » Sun Jan 17, 2016 4:53 pm
Going to any cassettes starting at 12 teeth with a 48 being the biggest ring on the front will loose you more gear inches that you may have been able to loose with say a compact 35/50. This means you would be spinning out at a lower speed.
Btw Hours on the bike is what will make you quicker.
Edit: softy speaks good advice. I have seen decent roadees going 2nd hand for less than 300 bucks if you are patient.
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby find_bruce » Sun Jan 17, 2016 7:55 pm
It's a good commuter but it is not and never will be as quick as my roadie.
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby ekib » Mon Jan 18, 2016 1:57 pm
"Seriously, just get a proper road bike."
I commuted on a really old, slow hybrid for about 10 years, then bought a cheap roadie (Cell Lapa 2.0) last year. The difference was amazing, slow much faster for so much less effort, especially up hills
Ekib.
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby TonyMax » Mon Jan 18, 2016 2:22 pm
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/blacktow ... 1100182420" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby Thoglette » Mon Jan 18, 2016 2:29 pm
Unless you've shaved 5kg off and have a lot of hills you're not going to notice it. That 5kg is usually found above the saddle (at least in my case! )Ballmead wrote:So I suppose my question is: Will these road parts make the bike much lighter/faster or am I kidding myself?
You've already done the one sane thing - changing to more supple tyres. I'd probably have a good hard look at the bearings in the wheel set. Nothing that saps energy faster than overly tight bearings. Well, except dragging brakes
The two things that really make you faster are a more aero position (including backpack instead of panniers) and your own fitness level.
But there's a reason (several thousand of them) why the roadie is not used for commuting. Plus I'd wager mudguards and racks.find_bruce wrote:It's a good commuter but it is not and never will be as quick as my roadie.
N+1 still applies!
"People are worthy of respect, ideas are not." Peter Ellerton, UQ
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby Ballmead » Mon Jan 18, 2016 2:42 pm
I think I'm just going to have to upset the missus and buy a proper road bike. Wish me luck [FEARFUL FACE]
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby koshari » Mon Jan 18, 2016 3:14 pm
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby Ballmead » Wed Jan 20, 2016 11:43 am
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby bychosis » Wed Jan 20, 2016 12:56 pm
That's a shame. I've been thinking about upgrading my car, and looking for a good excuse. This morning my mechanic tells me the clutch is probably on the way out, $1200-$2400 on $5k car . You need to find a GOOD reason to upgrade, not just "I want to"Ballmead wrote:Well the talk didn't go so well so it looks like it's back to plan 1
I'd second/third/fourth whatever and say wheels is probably the best bet for upgrades and drivetrain, while possibly making it lighter in reality wont make much difference. Perhaps try even lighter tyres. 25's and slick tread? Light wheels and discs are going to cost a fair bit so might rule that out too.
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby silentbutdeadly » Wed Jan 20, 2016 8:57 pm
A better driveline will drop weight but could make actually make things harder and besides some of that roadie gear you are eyeing off may not suit the frame given it appears to have some basic MTB components.
I have worked on an older Giant Cypress hybrid to the point that it now goes like snot for a hybrid bike but it'll never compete against a roadie...it just gives lazy ones a fright!
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby Duck! » Thu Jan 21, 2016 2:05 pm
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby Thoglette » Sun Jan 24, 2016 10:51 am
but true.Duck! wrote:There's the term "polishing a turd".....
With the risk of repeating myself - have a look at your riding position. See how far you can drop the bars & raise the seat.
The only "easy" place to get weight out of your bike would be replacing the triple with a single ring (or just dump the two unloved rings and leave it at that)
At the end of the day the bike doesn't know nor care what it looks like. Total weight only impacts climbing and acceleration. It's drag/friction that sets your top/cruise speed: If your favourite gear has a nice straight chainline, the main source of drag is you, and the main source of friction is wheel bearings and tyre flex.
"People are worthy of respect, ideas are not." Peter Ellerton, UQ
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby koshari » Sun Jan 24, 2016 11:20 am
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby Ballmead » Tue Jan 26, 2016 6:53 pm
She wasn't too happy but she got over it fairly quickly
Anyway I bought a Merida Ride 93 that I had been eyeing off on Gumtree for a few weeks now, I think I got it for the reasonable price of $450.
I'm not too sure what year model it is, so I was hoping someone here could set me straight; it's got a Tiagra 9 speed groupset if that helps?
Anyway here it is, I'm yet to take it out for a decent ride yet so that will have to wait until tomorrow morning.
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby koshari » Tue Jan 26, 2016 6:57 pm
That aside i think you have made the correct decision. Compact crank and a medium range cassette will be forgiving on climbs yet fast enough on the flats.
Good that the missus didnt take it too badly is another bonus.
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby Ballmead » Tue Jan 26, 2016 7:38 pm
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby trailgumby » Tue Jan 26, 2016 8:29 pm
Seems to me the chain is a a link pair too long? That may mean you are prone to dropping the chain off the smaller ring on the front during downshifts. Lose the wheel reflectors and dork disc from behind the cassette, fit some clipless pedals and you'll look properly pro
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby koshari » Tue Jan 26, 2016 9:50 pm
Absolutely, I run 34 onto 25 as well and did a little climb at an 11% grade directly into the teeth of a 30km/h wind this arvo and had to get out of the seat for about 20 seconds, all the other climbs I did in the seat.Ballmead wrote:I was mucking around setting the limits etc. The gearing isn't too bad, 25t rear with a 34T front should be ok for most except the biggest of hills.
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby silentbutdeadly » Tue Jan 26, 2016 9:51 pm
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby koshari » Tue Jan 26, 2016 10:00 pm
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Re: Hybrid upgrades
Postby Duck! » Wed Jan 27, 2016 2:21 pm
Nup. There's room to fit a 28T sprocket if desired (just), and propensity for chain dropping is not at all related to chain length; it's all about FD tuning.trailgumby wrote:
Seems to me the chain is a a link pair too long? That may mean you are prone to dropping the chain off the smaller ring on the front during downshifts.
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