Changing Handlebars - neck and wrist pressure

[AlexHuggs]

I recently raised my seat marginally which has been great for my legs but that little bit of extra forward lean has placed a bit more pressure on my hands and neck so I'm getting quite a bit more hand numbness than before. Currently I have stock Bontrager flat bars (31.8mm clamp) with BBB ergonomic grips on my hybrid.

I briefly considered going to drops but am generally happy with the height, aren't convinced about a more aggressive riding position (part of my current problem), don't tend to ride into the wind, and don't want the expense of changing break levers, shifters and stem, so need to stick with flat bar.

I've narrowed it down to some options with a bit of back sweep (25 - 45 deg) for a more natural wrist position and some have a bit of rise. Thanks to eldavo for some private discussion about this. Probably differences are marginal for a lot of the bars below, but I'd appreciate any feedback or experience on moving a to a more swept back bar and/or advice on neck/wrist issues.

(Now I've put in all these links I realise you won't follow them all, but a handy reference for me!)

A rather expensive Jones H-bar touring handlebar. Probably overkill.
On-One Mary bars
Gussett Stash Bar
There's also something like this from Humpert or their aerobar ii.

I've also taken a look at the Velo-orange crazy bar but I don't think it's for me.

[eeksll]

could a shorter stem length and higher angle put the bars in the same relative position?

[AlexHuggs]

could a shorter stem length and higher angle put the bars in the same relative position?

I wondered that, but there's still the matter of the angle of the wrist. One of the advantages of drops, as I understand it, is riding on the hoods puts your hands in a more natural position. This is part of the appeal of an angled flat bar.

[Thoglette]

I'm a big fan of some turn-in on the end of my flat bars. Hugely easier on the wrists.

"North Road" is the classic style but they may be a little too relaxed (even when mounted upside down). There's an almost infinite variation around them between full sweep back and full drop (e.g. see VO's bar pageor anybodie's Nittos barpage for just two manufacture's output). Perhaps the VO Positano would be close to your needs.

The big thing to bear in mind is your stem and brifter diameters. The classic stem dimension is 25.4 (1"), then the continent and most "road" bikes use 26mm. Except if they're new in which case they're 31.8. Your brifters probably want 22.2 (MTB) size but may be 23.8. (If in doubt ask Duck )

[AlexHuggs]

The big thing to bear in mind is your stem and brifter diameters. The classic stem dimension is 25.4 (1"), then the continent and most "road" bikes use 26mm. Except if they're new in which case they're 31.8. Your brifters probably want 22.2 (MTB) size but may be 23.8. (If in doubt ask Duck )

Hmmm, it's a 31.8 stem and standard 22.2 bars. But that raises the question, if I'm doing this anyway, is there an advantage to switching to a 25.4mm stem? There seems to be more options available for my purposes...

And why can't we just switch to metric properly? Go to 25mm and 30mm stems! Do the Americans still use inches in cycling? The Europeans need to get tough!

[Thoglette]

Hmmm, it's a 31.8 stem and standard 22.2 bars.

You can buy handlebar shims (e.g. those from Wheels Manufacturing ) to match skinner bars to fatter stems.

[trailgumby]

You should also have your controls oriented so that when yu have your finger on the brake lever, your wrist is in a straight line with your arm.

For most people, this results in rolling forwards the controls quite a it. Most have them much to flat.

[Duck!]

The big thing to bear in mind is your stem and brifter diameters. The classic stem dimension is 25.4 (1"), then the continent and most "road" bikes use 26mm. Except if they're new in which case they're 31.8. Your brifters probably want 22.2 (MTB) size but may be 23.8. (If in doubt ask Duck )

Drop and flat bars tend to have different tapers, even with the same clamp area diameter. Drop bars are generally around 24mm after the taper, while flats, both road and MTB are 22.2.

[Duck!]

Hmmm, it's a 31.8 stem and standard 22.2 bars. But that raises the question, if I'm doing this anyway, is there an advantage to switching to a 25.4mm stem? There seems to be more options available for my purposes...

And why can't we just switch to metric properly? Go to 25mm and 30mm stems! Do the Americans still use inches in cycling? The Europeans need to get tough!

25.4mm is an older standard from the days when most bits were steel. The smaller diameter at the clamp area with an aluminium bar may be slightly more prone to fatigue, as the bar can flex a bit more (the enemy of aluminium as fatigue accumulates) than a larger diameter bar.

The weird sizing isn't solely because of the Americans; the British are equally guilty! So it's their fault too that we still have 1"->25.4mm, 1 1/8" -> 28.6mm & 1 1/4" -> 31.8 (and even 1 1/2" -> 34.9mm in some parts).

[AlexHuggs]

25.4mm is an older standard from the days when most bits were steel. The smaller diameter at the clamp area with an aluminium bar may be slightly more prone to fatigue, as the bar can flex a bit more (the enemy of aluminium as fatigue accumulates) than a larger diameter bar.

The weird sizing isn't solely because of the Americans; the British are equally guilty! So it's their fault too that we still have 1"->25.4mm, 1 1/8" -> 28.6mm & 1 1/4" -> 31.8 (and even 1 1/2" -> 34.9mm in some parts).

Ahhh, so the 1" clamp isn't just cosmetic. I wondered if it was that our tell standardizing components.

[ValleyForge]

Going back to the OP - what gloves are you using? Often the simplest solution is to get gel-pad gloves.

[AlexHuggs]

Going back to the OP - what gloves are you using? Often the simplest solution is to get gel-pad gloves.

Using some Bontrager gel gloves. Hand and foot numbness have always been an issue but a little worse at the moment. I'm sure my weight doesn't help...

[AUbicycles]

I like the suggestion of the stem length and while a handlebar may be the ultimate solution, don't forget to consider the handlebar height - do you have space to raise the stem or can you consider a stem which is angled up. Some ergo stems have adjustable height settings.

Alternatively sweeping bars with a rise and a curve ball suggestion are handlebar risers (though these are overkill).

As your seat was raised, it pushed you forward and you have more pressure on the hands - by raising the bars it can shift some of your upper body weight back slightly (again) and contribute to alleviating pressure.

[AlexHuggs]

I like the suggestion of the stem length and while a handlebar may be the ultimate solution, don't forget to consider the handlebar height - do you have space to raise the stem or can you consider a stem which is angled up. Some ergo stems have adjustable height settings.

Alternatively sweeping bars with a rise and a curve ball suggestion are handlebar risers (though these are overkill).

As your seat was raised, it pushed you forward and you have more pressure on the hands - by raising the bars it can shift some of your upper body weight back slightly (again) and contribute to alleviating pressure.

I didn't think of raising the bars! Don't know if I can or not but will have a look at it. Thanks.

[rodneycc]

I was getting a sore neck and shoulders and sore hands a while back and I helped it by buying a shorter stem and moving the saddle back (and post down a fraction).I still battle the fine line between sore hands and knees with the saddle position but the shoulders/neck issue has resolved at least.

Definitely a science this bike fitting business.

[AlexHuggs]

My new handlebars arrived today (Gusset Stash), which is handy because it's my RDO. I couldn't see a way to raise the bars as there are no spacers above the stem.

I'm certainly more upright and I'll have to wait for a final verdict until my commute tomorrow, but a short test ride felt good. Adjusted the angle of the break levers while I was at it a la Trailgumby's suggestion and that's much better also. The 35mm back sweep is better than a straight bar but leaves me wanting more, but that will have to wait.

The aluminium is thinner than my Bontrager bars and the end caps on my BBB ergonomic grips don't fit, so had to go back to a cheap pair of round grips for now. The anodising or paint or whatever also comes off very easily so obviously not the best quality - I guess you get what you pay for. As long as they don't fail I'm not worried about the cosmetics.

[eeksll]

... I couldn't see a way to raise the bars as there are no spacers above the stem. ...

flip the stem, if you have already flipped the stem, you can buy a 17 degree stem

[AlexHuggs]

... I couldn't see a way to raise the bars as there are no spacers above the stem. ...

flip the stem, if you have already flipped the stem, you can buy a 17 degree stem

Stem came flipped. But the new bars seem to have done the trick. Still getting hand numbness (used to on my roadie in my 20's though, now I recall), but much more comfy everywhere else and a fast ride in to work this morning (by my standards).

Thanks for the advice though, I'll keep it in mind.