First road/commuting bike advice

[skyrider]

Hi everyone,

I'm new to the Cycling Forums but would love some advice / opinions on purchasing my first bike. Budget around ~$1000

Will be using it for riding around Melbourne wider city area, hoping to start riding to work (~6km one way). Definitely want disc breaks.

My current short list includes the following - I've taken each for a ride and can't decided between the Cross City or Allant. (Prices quoted)

• Giant Cross City 0 Disc ($1199)
  Giant Cross City 1 Disc ($899)
  Trek Allant 7.4 ($1099) (Similar to 7.4 FX Disc?)
  Merida Speeder 200 ($1099)

Any help would be great!

[softy]

looks like you are just under the sweet spot groupset shimano 105.

I would recommend a bike fitted with this groupset, as it is a good guide to where the bikes tip to the better quality but with reasonable costs.

The second is what type of riding you want to do. If it is riding around the city, a roadie, endurance or cyclocross. they are all variations of road bikes.
Roadies more race focused, endurance a comfy roadie, cyclocross for going anywhere.

The reason I would look more at these types of bikes is they are more all round bikes, unless you want to fit baskets and carry bags.

I would also suggest dropbars as they offer more grip positions when your hands get tired.

I realise this may be not what you have stated above, but the flat buy city bikes lock you into a one horse bike. with little variation if you get more serious.

Also with disc brakes, I rate the hydraulics, but would rather stick with callipers than mechanic discs which would probably be on the bikes in your price bracket.

just my 2 cents worth.

[AlexHuggs]

A dropbar bike will give you more hand positions and versatility, but everything becomes a compromise and in the end any quality bike will do the job. I imagine on this forum some of the guys faces would fall off at my setup for a 20km commute each way.

My bike is a commuter specific hybrid - 32mm wheels and is very heavy at 15kg but has integrated lights, mudguards and a rack.

I ride a mix of 80km/h road (on the shoulder) and poor paths and although a roadie would be much faster (I am constantly being overtaken) I wouldn't trust one on the paths and with my weight at 95kg. 30km/h is a fast ride for me (average 22-24km/h on a good day). But the bike is very comfortable, especially since I replaced the straight bar with moustache bars.

But I really love the bike and it will do me for a trip down to the shops on the weekend.

I wonder if a CX bike would be worth considering?

[Sparx]

I don't really get the 'hands get tired' argument for drops. I ride my mtb and flat bar commuter for 3-10 hrs and my hands are fine - I think you just need to get used to it.

If you are used to riding drops in traffic then this will obviously be the fastest option but I feel a flat bar is much safer in traffic - it's easier to simultaneously brake and shift than drop bars I find.

Agree a 105 groupset would be good but between the ones you've listed there is not too much of a difference

[Comedian]

I don't really get the 'hands get tired' argument for drops. I ride my mtb and flat bar commuter for 3-10 hrs and my hands are fine - I think you just need to get used to it.

It's really not that simple. It depends on the person, the bike, and how much they ride it. Just because you don't have a problem doesn't mean this isn't a very real issue which I think it is.

I think a key thing is that your body will change and adapt if you end up doing a lot of riding. Don't try and buy the perfect bike straight away. Buy whatever gives you the best chance of succeeding now and into the near future. Worry about your perfect bike later.

For a 6k ride any of those flat bars would be great. The only issue I see is that if you want to try group riding at some point then you will need a drop bar so if you think that is likely in the short term then consider it.

[rodneycc]

Giant Cross City 0 has always been a nice bike, I'd go that one (6kms isn't a long way). The Deore group is kind of like the Mtb equivalent to 105. Although I agree with the dropbar comments especially for long rides but if they aren't your thing then stick to what you feel more comfortable with. More than anything test a few out and get your sizing and fit right, that will make it all the more enjoyable. Good luck!

[softy]

giant cross city disc 0 is the pick of the bunch.

the bontrager rims on the trek are tubeless compatible which will probably make it harder to change a tyre due to the better fitting rim bead. of course unless you want to run tubeless?
Just something to keep in mind.

[skyrider]

Thanks everyone for your feedback this is exactly what I was after!

I probably haven't given enough context but I haven't ridden a bike in years since I was a kid. I'm thinking the flat handlebars will be best to get back into riding, I feel more comfortable with them from the bikes I have tested out.

My riding will mostly be around the city/cycle paths, nothing too serious to start off with but who knows where this hobby will lead. I am looking forward to having the option of cycling to work!
I didn't know what a groupset actually was when I posted but have done more research since. The Deore on the Cross City 0 seems to be considered good? How much does it really matter if it's just my first purchase?

I'm not familiar with the tubeless tire so it's hard for me to say.

Thinking of taking the Cross City 0 Disc for another ride this weekend and will most likely purchase

[softy]

tubeless is a new technology where it is like a car tyre, no tube. As it is still relatively new, only a number of wheels and tyres support them. the locating bead for the tyre is designed to give a better fit and a glue type product called sealant is put in the tyre to seal it all up.

So why run them?

They are claimed to have better puncture protection and are immune from pinch flats when running lower pressures.

The problem is if you want to run a standard tyre and tube, this is fine but due to the different bead design the tyre is harder to remove and mount.

For a noob I would suggest stay clear from running tubeless as it is a real task to set them up if you are new to the whole bike thing, unless you get a bike shop to do it.

[g-boaf]

I would also suggest dropbars as they offer more grip positions when your hands get tired.

I've never noticed it even when I started riding (and I hadn't ridden a bike for very many years before that time).

I think a road bike with the 11 speed Shimano 105 will be the ideal choice. You can set a road bike up to be very comfortable and commuter backpacks are around that are very practical. I believe a forum user here even had a link to one specific type in their signature, though I cannot remember what brand it was.

[skyrider]

I would also suggest dropbars as they offer more grip positions when your hands get tired.

I've never noticed it even when I started riding (and I hadn't ridden a bike for very many years before that time).

I think a road bike with the 11 speed Shimano 105 will be the ideal choice. You can set a road bike up to be very comfortable and commuter backpacks are around that are very practical. I believe a forum user here even had a link to one specific type in their signature, though I cannot remember what brand it was.

Would you have an examples of specific models?

[g-boaf]

I would suggest to go with some of the known brands like Giant or Specialized. Trek are fine as well.

Giant (at least in Sydney) seem to always be doing deals on bikes regularly - so keep an eye open and you might find something more than what you expected.

A good fit on the bike and the right saddle are really the key to comfort on the bike. The wrong saddle can ruin everything.

[Duck!]

tubeless is a new technology where it is like a car tyre, no tube. As it is still relatively new, only a number of wheels and tyres support them. the locating bead for the tyre is designed to give a better fit and a glue type product called sealant is put in the tyre to seal it all up.

Tubeless isn't that new, it's been around on mountain bikes for years. Road tubeless has been around for a fair while too, actually pushing ten years, but hasn't been as widely adopted as off-road.

So why run them?

They are claimed to have better puncture protection and are immune from pinch flats when running lower pressures.

Rolling resistance is reduced due to the elimination of friction between tyre & tube. Not really that obvious to the casual cyclist. Tubeless is more beneficial to off-road use where low pressure greatly improves traction on uneven surfaces, but this benefit doesn't really translate to road, which contributes a fair bit to the lower uptake on the road side of things.

The problem is if you want to run a standard tyre and tube, this is fine but due to the different bead design the tyre is harder to remove and mount.

For a noob I would suggest stay clear from running tubeless as it is a real task to set them up if you are new to the whole bike thing, unless you get a bike shop to do it.

Sorry, but that's basically crap. Standard tyres have less chunky beads than tubeless, so are no harder to fit than to normal rims. Tubeless are marginally more difficult due to the tighter beads. Removing tyres simply needs the beads pushed away from the rim sidewall to disengage from the interlocking lip around the inside of the rim, then it's no harder than any other rim.

[skyrider]

Found a Giant Cross City 0 Disc (2016) for $1050, going to take it for a test ride on Saturday.

I'm happy with the price so I think I have a winner!

[softy]

tubeless is a new technology where it is like a car tyre, no tube. As it is still relatively new, only a number of wheels and tyres support them. the locating bead for the tyre is designed to give a better fit and a glue type product called sealant is put in the tyre to seal it all up.

Tubeless isn't that new, it's been around on mountain bikes for years. Road tubeless has been around for a fair while too, actually pushing ten years, but hasn't been as widely adopted as off-road.

So why run them?

They are claimed to have better puncture protection and are immune from pinch flats when running lower pressures.

Rolling resistance is reduced due to the elimination of friction between tyre & tube. Not really that obvious to the casual cyclist. Tubeless is more beneficial to off-road use where low pressure greatly improves traction on uneven surfaces, but this benefit doesn't really translate to road, which contributes a fair bit to the lower uptake on the road side of things.

The problem is if you want to run a standard tyre and tube, this is fine but due to the different bead design the tyre is harder to remove and mount.

For a noob I would suggest stay clear from running tubeless as it is a real task to set them up if you are new to the whole bike thing, unless you get a bike shop to do it.

Sorry, but that's basically crap. Standard tyres have less chunky beads than tubeless, so are no harder to fit than to normal rims. Tubeless are marginally more difficult due to the tighter beads. Removing tyres simply needs the beads pushed away from the rim sidewall to disengage from the interlocking lip around the inside of the rim, then it's no harder than any other rim.

I do think you are responding with only slight differences. to change and set up a tubeless tyre is something different again. it may be simple for you but may not be to a newbie, when you are new to it all, use the KISS principal. I am not a fan of clinchers and even between brands of tyres/rims they can vary in how easy they go on. Anyway, my point is just run normal everyday stuff for starters.once you are more experienced have a play with different technologies.

[softy]

Found a Giant Cross City 0 Disc (2016) for $1050, going to take it for a test ride on Saturday.

I'm happy with the price so I think I have a winner!

sounds like a goer!

[Duck!]

I do think you are responding with only slight differences. to change and set up a tubeless tyre is something different again. it may be simple for you but may not be to a newbie, when you are new to it all, use the KISS principal. I am not a fan of clinchers and even between brands of tyres/rims they can vary in how easy they go on. Anyway, my point is just run normal everyday stuff for starters.once you are more experienced have a play with different technologies.

Exactly, my point is to highlight that they are only slight differences and not the major mission you paint tubeless to be. Yes there are some differences - the greatest of which is pouring in some sealant instead of stuffing a tube in! - but different is not a synonym for difficult.

[softy]

I understand your point "duck" and if I wanted to run tubeless I would research it, find how it is done and make it happen. That is just me. But others find mucking around with sealant (a cup full) fitting the correct valve stem, then having to use compressed air to get the tyre started (seated) to much of a hassle.

ie some would refer to this as to difficult.

I had a lecturer once tell me, everything is easy when you know how.

But really our debating it is pretty mute, as I think the OP has decided on the giant, and I do believe this bike will serve him well.

[skyrider]

Very happy!

[rodneycc]

Nice choice mate, looks great too!
Enjoy!