I'm about to change jobs and working from home - no more commute = trade my commuter specific hybrid for a road/touring bike to keep up some exercise and maybe build up to some extended rides. I don't need something fancy as I won't be competing although might join a Saturday ride. I can't afford a carbon frame and prefer the classic look and comfort of steel over aluminium. Money is an issue, I'd like to spend less than $500 (way less if I can). I'm in Perth. Wondering about options...
[*]This is a bit out there, but how do some of the older 80's - 90's cro-mo bikes go compared to more modern bikes? (There's lots used on Gumtree). My biggest fear is not being able to easily source components if I need to replace them. Are modern components compatible with these older bikds?
[*] Reid have a steel frame and I'm wondering about buying a new frame and used components as they come available and build it up from scratch.
[*] I could just bight the bullet and buy a used aluminium road bike - there seem to be a few used Reid Osprey's around.
Thoughts and advice appreciated.
Advice on a Steel Framed Road Bike
- AlexHuggs
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Re: Advice on a Steel Framed Road Bike
Postby minhyy » Sun Jun 19, 2016 4:45 pm
steel is real. experience ride quality like you have never before
re: compatibility, as long as you go for something with a 1" threaded headset and fork, 700c wheels, downtube shifter stops and either an English or Italian threaded bottom bracket, you can fit a modern mechanical groupset to it. 1" fork means you can also use a quill adaptor to fit 1 1/8" stems to fit modern handlebars also. Some frames may be spaced 126mm at the rear, which can be respaced to 130mm by a competent bike shop / frame builder with ease to fit modern wheels, allowing 8-11 speed.
here's two of mine, an 80s Tommasini Super Prestige fitted with 11 speed Super Record
and a 1990 Peugeot Tourmalet with 10 speed 105 running 10 speed Dura Ace downtube shifters
re: compatibility, as long as you go for something with a 1" threaded headset and fork, 700c wheels, downtube shifter stops and either an English or Italian threaded bottom bracket, you can fit a modern mechanical groupset to it. 1" fork means you can also use a quill adaptor to fit 1 1/8" stems to fit modern handlebars also. Some frames may be spaced 126mm at the rear, which can be respaced to 130mm by a competent bike shop / frame builder with ease to fit modern wheels, allowing 8-11 speed.
here's two of mine, an 80s Tommasini Super Prestige fitted with 11 speed Super Record
and a 1990 Peugeot Tourmalet with 10 speed 105 running 10 speed Dura Ace downtube shifters
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Re: Advice on a Steel Framed Road Bike
Postby DavidS » Sun Jun 19, 2016 5:26 pm
I bought a new steel framed tourer last year, not sure if it would be too expensive but it is an Alegro T1. Great bike with new components as you would expect on a new bike.
I throw this in as, apart from the unthreaded headset (I would prefer threaded myself), very little different from bikes I rode as a kid. Can't see why parts wouldn't be transferable, as minhyy says, just make sure the sizing is common. Also, threw this in as there are some good bikes going for not huge prices, the Alegro was from memory about $600 down from $1,500, look around and you might find something new at a good price.
DS
I throw this in as, apart from the unthreaded headset (I would prefer threaded myself), very little different from bikes I rode as a kid. Can't see why parts wouldn't be transferable, as minhyy says, just make sure the sizing is common. Also, threw this in as there are some good bikes going for not huge prices, the Alegro was from memory about $600 down from $1,500, look around and you might find something new at a good price.
DS
Allegro T1, Auren Swift
- Duck!
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Re: Advice on a Steel Framed Road Bike
Postby Duck! » Sun Jun 19, 2016 7:08 pm
There is very little modern stuff that is truly incompatible with older frames - BB30 cranks and disc brakes are about it. The only other thing that can cause mild consternation is if the frame you wind up with was built for 27" wheels rather than 700c. 27" are slightly bigger diameter, plus typically had 1 1/4" (near enough to 32mm) wide tyres, so there's a lot of clearance below the brake mount bridge, which becomes a concern if you fit 700c wheels, because many brakes won't reach.
I had a thought, but it got run over as it crossed my mind.
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Re: Advice on a Steel Framed Road Bike
Postby find_bruce » Mon Jun 20, 2016 12:04 pm
You will get a much better frame for your money with an 80's - 90's double butted cro-mo. I ride a late 80s shogun, with the rear spread to take an 8 speed hub, but otherwise 105SC equipped. Speed wise the bike is capable of far more than its current rider can deliver
My wife's bike is a 27" mixte to which I have fitted 700c wheels. As duck says you will need longer reach brakes. For some frames 47 to 57mm reach is sufficient - in dual pivot brakes Shimano BR-650 or Tektro R539. For my wife's bike needed 53 to 73 mm reach & the Tektro R559 do the job nicely. Means she can run big tyres and mudguards.
Personally I would stay with a 700c frame, even though that limits you to 28mm tyres. I would pick something in your size with paint in good to excellent condition. Even in Perth it shouldn't be too hard to find a frame you like & easy enough to modernise the components if you so desire.
Two parts that can be difficult to marry up are bars & brifters - they are compatible in the sense that they fit together, but old brakes & shifters don't always give you good hand positions on modern shaped bars & vice versa. Minh's gorgeous Tommasini is an exception and shows that it is possible to get it right.
My wife's bike is a 27" mixte to which I have fitted 700c wheels. As duck says you will need longer reach brakes. For some frames 47 to 57mm reach is sufficient - in dual pivot brakes Shimano BR-650 or Tektro R539. For my wife's bike needed 53 to 73 mm reach & the Tektro R559 do the job nicely. Means she can run big tyres and mudguards.
Personally I would stay with a 700c frame, even though that limits you to 28mm tyres. I would pick something in your size with paint in good to excellent condition. Even in Perth it shouldn't be too hard to find a frame you like & easy enough to modernise the components if you so desire.
Two parts that can be difficult to marry up are bars & brifters - they are compatible in the sense that they fit together, but old brakes & shifters don't always give you good hand positions on modern shaped bars & vice versa. Minh's gorgeous Tommasini is an exception and shows that it is possible to get it right.
Anything you can do, I can do slower
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Re: Advice on a Steel Framed Road Bike
Postby AlexHuggs » Mon Jun 20, 2016 1:15 pm
Thanks for the replies everyone. Will look at second hand.
Re the wheels - can you still get 27" wheels or has everything converted to 700c?
Re the wheels - can you still get 27" wheels or has everything converted to 700c?
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Re: Advice on a Steel Framed Road Bike
Postby Duck! » Mon Jun 20, 2016 1:41 pm
27" wheels are still available, but options are limited.
I had a thought, but it got run over as it crossed my mind.
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Re: Advice on a Steel Framed Road Bike
Postby koshari » Mon Jun 20, 2016 1:56 pm
everything since the mid 80s is pretty much 700c. there are prolly more 650b roadies custom built for smaller riders than 27" today. and if you did get a 27" is would almost certainly be steel rim with freewheelAlexHuggs wrote:Thanks for the replies everyone. Will look at second hand.
Re the wheels - can you still get 27" wheels or has everything converted to 700c?
if you were to luck out and get a 27" frame a set of long reach callipers would get you by if you were to throw some 700c's on but just less hassle to go straight for 700c.
700c means;
-massive choice of tires,
-no issues with brake reach,
-8,9,10 speed compatibility easily attained.
-heaps of quality late 80s/early 90s frames still around.
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Re: Advice on a Steel Framed Road Bike
Postby Duck! » Mon Jun 20, 2016 7:15 pm
As I said earlier, options are limited, but you can get off-the-shelf alloy-rimmed 27" wheels for both 7-sp. and 8/9/10-sp. cassettes as well as screw-on freewheels. Also nothing stopping you building an 11-sp. hub into a 27" wheel if you have the skills, or know someone who does.koshari wrote:and if you did get a 27" is would almost certainly be steel rim with freewheel .
I had a thought, but it got run over as it crossed my mind.
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Re: Advice on a Steel Framed Road Bike
Postby koshari » Mon Jun 20, 2016 8:19 pm
Really?Duck! wrote:As I said earlier, options are limited, but you can get off-the-shelf alloy-rimmed 27" wheels for both 7-sp. and 8/9/10-sp. cassettes as well as screw-on freewheels. Also nothing stopping you building an 11-sp. hub into a 27" wheel if you have the skills, or know someone who does.koshari wrote:and if you did get a 27" is would almost certainly be steel rim with freewheel .
nice to know,
i suspect they would be pretty exxy? havnt seen any in my travels but we only have the 2 LBS's round here.
speaking of which are there any such affordable supplies of 650a rims available off the shelf as i have an old 1969 steel framed hallmark which could do with some rims?
I haven't been able to find any local suppliers with rims in entry level price range and with overseas suppliers the shipping far exceeds the cost of the rims.
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Re: Advice on a Steel Framed Road Bike
Postby Duck! » Mon Jun 20, 2016 9:06 pm
Pushing your luck on 650As!
27" are actually pretty cheap, 'cos there's bugger all demand for them; a pair can be had for around $150 through LBSs. That's on par with entry level 700c.
27" are actually pretty cheap, 'cos there's bugger all demand for them; a pair can be had for around $150 through LBSs. That's on par with entry level 700c.
I had a thought, but it got run over as it crossed my mind.
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Re: Advice on a Steel Framed Road Bike
Postby Mulger bill » Mon Jun 20, 2016 11:17 pm
What size?
Got an unfinished Apollo Eclipse in the shed you can have for shipping cost. It's a mishmash but should be doable.
Not sure exactly what's missing beyond wheels and crankset, I could take a look if you like.
Got an unfinished Apollo Eclipse in the shed you can have for shipping cost. It's a mishmash but should be doable.
Not sure exactly what's missing beyond wheels and crankset, I could take a look if you like.
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