power meters hold their value?

[Tarvis]

Hi folks,

New member here and Melbourne rider. Apologies if this is the wrong place for this thread.

I'm considering buying a power meter so that I can focus my training a little bit. I own a Cannondale Synapse Tiagra - certainly not a top of the line bike, but I believe that there is a stages meter that will fit the crank on that bike.

What I'm trying to work out is should I buy the meter for that bike, what is the resale value of meters like should I ever choose to upgrade the bike?

I'm really happy with the bike, but I am wondering if I should take this opportunity to put on an 11 speed crank that is a little better (sram force/red or hollowgram at a stretch) and buy a meter that suits that crank. That way the meter will likely suit me to any future bike purchase as long as I stay with a bb30 based crank.

Thoughts?

Tarvis

[northvegas_12]

I don't quite hold the answer, but just an opinion....

If you are buying a power meter for a Tiagra groupset, then I would assume that the resale potential is going to be marketed at a select few riders. Where as a power meter suited for the higher groupsets would appeal to more riders etc.

Like you said, taking this opportunity to upgrade the crank set may be a good option and move the crank set or power meter to your future bikes..

I have a stages and I rate it.

[NGtim]

Have a look into the garmin vector 2S. It has been my first power meter and for starting out it has been great. Albeit a little fiddly to set up but once set up I've been able to set and forget. Also I'm able to swap over to any bike pretty quickly. Resale value I think as time comes a long you will forget all about it. Has inbuilt cadence sensor so if you had all the garmin speed/cadence sensors you could easily pawn them off on the private market.

Hope that helps

Tim.

[nickdos]

I would investigate/consider getting an Ultegra Stages left crank, which may fit on your Tiagra crank spindle (I'm guessing but worth checking out). Sure it may look a bit funny but who cares? That way you can upgrade the bike later or sell the Ultegra crank arm which is much more likely to get a good price vs a Tiagra version.

[Tarvis]

Thanks for the suggestions so far. I don't think an ultegra crank will fit because of the bottom bracket on the cannondale, but there are other options such as SRAM force/red or Cannondale Hollowgram SI (expensive).

Also need to work out, if I go from 10 speed to 11 speed, what do I actually have to change. My thoughts are:
- crank and chainset;
- chain;
- rear derailleur;
- rear cassette.

Think I can probably get away without the front derailleur and shifters, but might do them later.

Incidentally there are stages that fit the sram and hollowgram options, which I think are more future proof.

Cheers,

Tarvis

[macca33]

A 105 or Ultegra Stages, otherwise a set of pedals would be the way to go, as all are transportable to a new bike.

cheers

[Duck!]

You can fit a Shimano crank to a BB30 frame with the appropriate adaptors.

You don't mention what crank you currently have, as that will dictate if there's a Stages to suit, or if you need to buy a complete crankset. If you need a whole crank, you can buy a crankset including the Stages power meter so you're not left with a redundant left arm.

[Duck!]

Thanks for the suggestions so far. I don't think an ultegra crank will fit because of the bottom bracket on the cannondale, but there are other options such as SRAM force/red or Cannondale Hollowgram SI (expensive).

Also need to work out, if I go from 10 speed to 11 speed, what do I actually have to change. My thoughts are:
- crank and chainset;
- chain;
- rear derailleur;
- rear cassette.

Think I can probably get away without the front derailleur and shifters, but might do them later.

Incidentally there are stages that fit the sram and hollowgram options, which I think are more future proof.

Cheers,

Tarvis

If you're contemplating upgrading to 11-sp, the crank is the least of your worries; it's the least fussy part of the system and will happily work a "10-sp." crank in an 11-sp. drivetrain & vice versa. You will first need to ensure your rear wheel will fit the wider cassette. Once that's determined, you need to do the shifters, derailleurs (unless your Tiagra set is the current 4700 series, in which case the derailleurs will carry over OK), chain and cassette.

[Tarvis]

Thanks for the replies.

The crank is an FSA Omega - standard crank on the tiagra equipped Synapse (it is the current series).

There probably is a stages that fits the FSA, which is why I was initially interested to understand if they resell well or not.

Aside from that I didn't feel it was worth buying expensive accessories for that particular crank setup because it won't carry over to a better bike down the track.

Anyway, that's given me a bit to think about.

Cheers,
Tarvis

[Duck!]

Omega is a fairly cheap FSA model, and I don't think Stages do one at that level; they're generally only mid-range (Shimano 105/SRAM Rival & equivalents) and up.

[nickobec]

As somebody who spends too much time of FB bicycle market, a new power meter probably depreciates about 25% in 12 months, unlike a new bike which is closer to 50%.

So lets look are your options for a power meter, they are crank, pedals or wheel.

Crank, you have a Cannondale Synapse, which uses BB30. At some stage you are likely to upgrade, meaning you need to buy another BB30 bike, or take a double hit sell the bike and the power meter and buy new bike and power meter.

Wheel, the powertap hubs are easy to move between bike, unfortunately that means one wheel set for everything, an at some stage you will want to upgrade your wheelset. I started with an elite+ hub on open pro rims, great training/general riding wheels, but the I started racing. Ended up lacing a G3 hub to carbon rims, 800gms lighter and much faster wheelset.

Pedals, while you upgrade bikes and wheels, you rarely change your pedals, You could go single sided Vector and later upgrade to dual sided Vector if you wanted. I finally took the plunge and bought a pair of Powertap P1s, I swap them between 4 bikes, 4 wheelsets. and it makes life easy.

My recommendation go for the pedals. The P1 are more than twice the Stages. But a single sided Vector is only a couple hundred more. Easily transferable and you not take a financial hit when you upgrade.

[Xplora]

A power meter is not really the hot upgrade to be chasing with this bike. If you just can't help yourself, get something for the pedals.

[Alex Simmons/RST]

Depends on what is meant by value. My oldest SRM is still in perfect working order and has been for 13 years and provides high quality data that's still not been bettered by any current meter (except for an SRM Science model).

[Rex]

I tried to sell my warranty replacement brand new P1's for $1300 and didn't get a single bite.

[Lukeyboy]

I would investigate/consider getting an Ultegra Stages left crank, which may fit on your Tiagra crank spindle (I'm guessing but worth checking out). Sure it may look a bit funny but who cares? That way you can upgrade the bike later or sell the Ultegra crank arm which is much more likely to get a good price vs a Tiagra version.

NO! Stay away from stages. If you are ever going to invest in a single sided power meter get the pioneer. You can decide on what side you get it on too. Also that way down the line you can buy the other side and have a dual sided power meter. Pioneer = Great. Stages = !! BAN ME NOW FOR SWEARING !!.

[kb]

I tried to sell my warranty replacement brand new P1's for $1300 and didn't get a single bite.

I was definitely tempted but a new bike had priority
(PS. Pushys had them down to around $1450 with sales just before your last price drop)

[ironhanglider]

They are all worth about the same when they are 10 years old.

Resale value is a dumb way to look at these things.

Cheers,

Cameron