Rear wheel creeps forward in semi-horizontal drop-outs

[Wollemi]

Street find single-speed. Had the LBS fit front and rear brakes 2+ years ago. Have started cycling this ss again after a break. On every third ride or so, I notice that the chain is slack, and I need to move the rear wheel back. This is not easy, as when I tighten it, the wheel moves forward. It is easier done if the bicycle is upside-down?
Would it help if I sanded off excess paint around the drop-out ?

I am finding that I need to use two shifters to tighten the bolts - the non-hub side rotates if I don't use two tools. When I bought a long padded-shifter, the LBS said I would only need one.
Why do ss/fixies use bolts - can you get a SS with a QR?

[Trevtassie]

Tuggnuts or something similar will fix the issue and allow you to use QR

[Tamiya]

If I can't get the axle nut to grip dropout hard enough to stop creeping, I'd not wanna downgrade to QRs... there'll be even less bolting tension available.

Some axles known to wander I've replaced plain nut with flanged nut; sometimes even added a soft metal (eg bronze or aluminium) washer which squishes down like a gasket for more grip.

Shifter monkey wrench might not give you enough cranking... I use ring spanner or socket for axle nuts. Not even an open spanner, they can slip off.

[P!N20]

It is easier done if the bicycle is upside-down?

Yeah, or in a work stand.

You kind of need to 'walk' the wheel back in the dropout, tightening and untightening each side as you go. Does that make sense? I usually hold the wheel near the down tube so it doesn't slip as I'm doing up the nut.

Once you do it a few times it becomes a two step process; position and tighten drive side for chain tension then do the same for the non drive side to centre the wheel.

If you wanted a QR on your rear you could get a vintage wheel with a hub that takes a screw on cassette and put your freewheel on that. Depends on your rear dropout spacing though. Unfortunately track hubs are usually solid axle with nuts as QR skewers aren't allowed on the track.

[rogerzilla]

With a nutted axle, get proper track nuts with a captive serrated washer and ensure the threads are clean and lightly greased. Tension the chain by wedging your hand between the tyre and seat tube. Then tighten the nuts to at least 30Nm.

On chromed dropouts, you may need more tightening torque. They are hard and slippy.

A good old-fashioned steel QR from Campag or Shimano works fine if you have hollow axles.

[rowdyflat]

Tugnuts or make your own bracket out of steel and hook it to the back then drill a hole in the place for the axle .
i did works well.