Pads for Shimano GRX BR-RX400 disk brakes

[Mr Purple]

Yeah, I'm leaning that way. The only thing holding me back is I'm not sure I can actually replace the pads without messing it up. So I'll check Youtube and if I'm not sure just get the whole thing done at the local mechanic.

[am50em]

https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/cate ... Brake-Pads have various compounds and finned variety. I find them to be quiet and wear well.

[Duck!]

Yeah, I'm leaning that way. The only thing holding me back is I'm not sure I can actually replace the pads without messing it up. So I'll check Youtube and if I'm not sure just get the whole thing done at the local mechanic.

There is no devillish rocket surgery involved with changing disc brake pads or rotors. Remove the retaining bolt/split pin, lift the pads out, push the pistons back with a softish tyre lever or similar, fit new pads & bolt/pin to secure. For rotors, Shimano Centrelock use the same tool as for cassettes, or if externally-splined lockrings (more on MTB), external bottom bracket spanner; 6-bolt types use a T25 Torx tip.

Contrary to some recent comments on the subject, the brake pistons will not "snap shut" when the wheel/rotor is out, so you don't need to have a spacer immediately at hand to stop them moving; the pistons will ONLY advance if the brake lever is squeezed. Don't touch the lever and you'll have no problem. Once the new pads & rotors are fitted and back in the frame, you may need to pump the levers a couple of times to reset the pad clearance. The process is considerably easier than replacing pads & resetting clearance on rim brakes....!

Brake rotors typically have a minimum thickness spec of 1.5mm but can be worn a bit thinner if you're daring, however Shimano's higher-spec (XTR/Dura-Ace/XT/Ultegra) IceTech rotors have a sandwich construction of very thin stainless steel veneers over an aluminium core; if the outer skins are worn through and exposing the aluminium core layer, they're due for replacement.

I'm not sure about the various aftermarket 3rd-party pads, but Shimano's finned pads are left/right (AKA inboard/outboard side of the caliper) specific; the fins are shaped in such a way that they will only fit in one side of the caliper.

[warthog1]

Not sure if this is the right spot, but I don't really want to start a new thread for it!

How do you tell if your discs need replacement? I've got a set of Ultegra discs with 18,500km on their third set of pads. They've recently started making some decent screeching noises intermittently under dry braking and there's plenty of meat left on the pads. Their thickness is pretty much as new but the braking surfaces have some visible scoring in them. Seem to work fine, just intermittently noisy.

New disc time? And if I replace the discs am I likely to have to do any thing to adjust the pads?

If they still work fine, I'd just leave them as is.
Stopping well is my concern, noise is not. I aint on the brakes often enough to care.

[jasonc]

Shimano's finned pads are left/right (AKA inboard/outboard side of the caliper) specific; the fins are shaped in such a way that they will only fit in one side of the caliper.

the Shimano pads are marked left and right. but they will fit on the other side. don't do it. it doesn't work so good

[Mr Purple]

If they still work fine, I'd just leave them as is.
Stopping well is my concern, noise is not. I aint on the brakes often enough to care.

Took it out on a very wet day and apart from the occasional screech you always get on a wet day and discs they were completely fine.

I suspect it was a little bit of contamination that sorted itself out.

Which suits me because I'm about 3000km from a new wheelset, new discs and pads anyway.

[warthog1]

^^nice