Torque wrench recommendation under $50

[ilovemybike]

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good torque wrench that has tension control under $50.

Only need hex keys

[P!N20]

https://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/view ... o#p1558096

[Gordonhooker]

I am a great believer in getting good quality tools from the start, and usually they will last you lifetime

[ilovemybike]

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=105891&p=1558096&hi ... o#p1558096

Thanks. How did you go with the Venzo? Didn't see your review afterwards.

Also what is the 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, 3/8 inch referring to and which to get for bike use?

[ilovemybike]

I am a great believer in getting good quality tools from the start, and usually they will last you lifetime

Would $50 get me a good quality one, the one recommended on the thread above is around that price range.

[Andy01]

https://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/view ... o#p1558096

Thanks. How did you go with the Venzo? Didn't see your review afterwards.

Also what is the 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, 3/8 inch referring to and which to get for bike use?

The ¼", 3/8" & ½" is the size of the standard socket drive. They generally have different torque ratings/capabilities.

Generally a ¼" would be from around 2Nm to maybe 24Nm, which is a good range for most of the smaller screws on a bike but too low for things like crank bolts. A 3/8" normally goes from around 6Nm to maybe 100Nm, which covers all but the smaller bolts. A ½" goes from around 14-200Nm is too big for most bike fasteners.

[Andy01]

I am a great believer in getting good quality tools from the start, and usually they will last you lifetime

Would $50 get me a good quality one, the one recommended on the thread above is around that price range.

Probably not, especially if you are looking for a "kit" (ie. wrench + some hex drives) for that price.

The cheapest ¼" drive wrench Supercheap currently has (normal price, not a sale price) is the ToolPro at $80 (wrench only). I have no idea what it is like because I bought a Toledo 3/8" which does most jobs.

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/tools ... rt=0&sz=60

As per the link I posted in the thread linked above, sometimes there is a sale on something like the Giant kit for a price closer to your $50. On a new bike I would think that your need for a torque wrench is probably some way off unless you are doing a LOT of kms and planning to change your cassette, cranks or BB soon. Wait and see if there are any deals around Black Friday or Christmas/Boxing Day sales.

[trailgumby]

When I tried to go cheap on a torque wrench and buy from Blackwoods or Hardware and General's industrial supply division, I found that the available product did not cope with reverse threads. It applied torque control to the conventional direction only, unless I paid more than what I could get bike-specific units for.

While you may get away with this for most of the small bolts on a bike, it will definitely be a problem for pedals and some types of cranks.

So I went PRO for the 1/4" drive and Park Tools for the 3/8" drive unit, which apply torque control in both directions.

The PRO unit is maybe 10 years old? The case looks very ratty now but the unit itself still works really well. They've since changed the case.

[P!N20]

Thanks. How did you go with the Venzo? Didn't see your review afterwards.

Also what is the 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, 3/8 inch referring to and which to get for bike use?

Yeah I haven't had a problem with it. Seems fine for domestic bike maintenance.

The sizes refer to the size of the bit connection, or 'drive'. So the bigger the drive the bigger the bit can be, if that makes sense.

This explains it, but you only usually get one size per unit.

[ilovemybike]

Thanks everyone

The ¼", 3/8" & ½" is the size of the standard socket drive. They generally have different torque ratings/capabilities.

Generally a ¼" would be from around 2Nm to maybe 24Nm, which is a good range for most of the smaller screws on a bike but too low for things like crank bolts. A 3/8" normally goes from around 6Nm to maybe 100Nm, which covers all but the smaller bolts. A ½" goes from around 14-200Nm is too big for most bike fasteners.

At the moment I only adjust my reach on the handle bars and west posts which is 11nm and 22 nm respectively. I also adjust the screws on the brake calipers , not sure how torque that is but it was pretty hard to unscrew.

The one I worry about most is the handlebar angle, I’ve been told not to overdo it but sometimes when I think I have applied enough tension, I still feel movement so I must have not applied enough.

So if I had to get just one, Wouldn’t 3/8 inch be better given the wider nm coverage so essentially anything between 6-100nm would be covered. Or is there a reason I would want a 1/4 inch instead given that the 3/8 has coverage for what a 1/4 inch has? I’ll like something that I can use for pedals and other stuff later down the track.


I dont know whether there is any explanation to this but i find that the adjustments I make using my multi tool doesn’t tighten as strongly as if I was to use an Allan key from ikea. It’s not like it can’t tighten to the same tension, but going by feel, I often think it’s super tight when using multi tool but it’s actually still loose. I don’t have this problem with my Allan key.

[Andy01]

Thanks. How did you go with the Venzo? Didn't see your review afterwards.

Also what is the 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, 3/8 inch referring to and which to get for bike use?

Yeah I haven't had a problem with it. Seems fine for domestic bike maintenance.

The sizes refer to the size of the bit connection, or 'drive'. So the bigger the drive the bigger the bit can be, if that makes sense.

This explains it, but you only usually get one size per unit.

Not sure where those labels came from but ½" is usually bigger than 3/8"

[Andy01]

Thanks everyone

The ¼", 3/8" & ½" is the size of the standard socket drive. They generally have different torque ratings/capabilities.

Generally a ¼" would be from around 2Nm to maybe 24Nm, which is a good range for most of the smaller screws on a bike but too low for things like crank bolts. A 3/8" normally goes from around 6Nm to maybe 100Nm, which covers all but the smaller bolts. A ½" goes from around 14-200Nm is too big for most bike fasteners.

At the moment I only adjust my reach on the handle bars and west posts which is 11nm and 22 nm respectively. I also adjust the screws on the brake calipers , not sure how torque that is but it was pretty hard to unscrew.

The one I worry about most is the handlebar angle, I’ve been told not to overdo it but sometimes when I think I have applied enough tension, I still feel movement so I must have not applied enough.

So if I had to get just one, Wouldn’t 3/8 inch be better given the wider nm coverage so essentially anything between 6-100nm would be covered. Or is there a reason I would want a 1/4 inch instead given that the 3/8 has coverage for what a 1/4 inch has? I’ll like something that I can use for pedals and other stuff later down the track.


I dont know whether there is any explanation to this but i find that the adjustments I make using my multi tool doesn’t tighten as strongly as if I was to use an Allan key from ikea. It’s not like it can’t tighten to the same tension, but going by feel, I often think it’s super tight when using multi tool but it’s actually still loose. I don’t have this problem with my Allan key.

Unfortunately I have not yet seen a torque wrench that covers the small stuff (2-3Nm) and the big stuff (50-60Nm), so it is not one size fits all. You need to either buy both or pick which one you think is going to work better for you.

Also, as mentioned above, getting a wrench that actually clicks (ie. controls torque) in both clockwise & anti-clockwise rotation directions is handy because things like pedals & cranks have left and right-hand threads.

As regards a multi-tool vs Ikea allen key, I can't comment except to say that perhaps the Ikea tool is a little longer and thus has more leverage than the multi-tool ?

Also, I am not a believer in cheap allen keys / hex wrenches - they invariably damage the screws (a bit like cheap screwdrivers). Any "free" allen keys I get with any item (including Ikea) go straight in the bin and I use my Bondus allen keys or a proper hex tool for a socket drive. This is especially important for the small sizes - it is relatively easy to wreck either allen key and/or screw on a 2mm or 3mm, whereas a 6mm or 8mm is more forgiving. Forty years as a mechanical engineer has given me some insight on where I can go cheap on tools and where to spend the money on the correct tool.

I also don't own a multi-tool because I think that unless I spend up and get a really high quality tool it is likely to be a "compromise" tool for occasional/emergency use only. I would never use one as a "workshop" tool for bike maintenance at home.

[Gordonhooker]

Thanks everyone

The ¼", 3/8" & ½" is the size of the standard socket drive. They generally have different torque ratings/capabilities.

Generally a ¼" would be from around 2Nm to maybe 24Nm, which is a good range for most of the smaller screws on a bike but too low for things like crank bolts. A 3/8" normally goes from around 6Nm to maybe 100Nm, which covers all but the smaller bolts. A ½" goes from around 14-200Nm is too big for most bike fasteners.

At the moment I only adjust my reach on the handle bars and west posts which is 11nm and 22 nm respectively. I also adjust the screws on the brake calipers , not sure how torque that is but it was pretty hard to unscrew.

The one I worry about most is the handlebar angle, I’ve been told not to overdo it but sometimes when I think I have applied enough tension, I still feel movement so I must have not applied enough.

So if I had to get just one, Wouldn’t 3/8 inch be better given the wider nm coverage so essentially anything between 6-100nm would be covered. Or is there a reason I would want a 1/4 inch instead given that the 3/8 has coverage for what a 1/4 inch has? I’ll like something that I can use for pedals and other stuff later down the track.


I dont know whether there is any explanation to this but i find that the adjustments I make using my multi tool doesn’t tighten as strongly as if I was to use an Allan key from ikea. It’s not like it can’t tighten to the same tension, but going by feel, I often think it’s super tight when using multi tool but it’s actually still loose. I don’t have this problem with my Allan key.

The Park Tool repair help blogs are always good source of information for all bike repair related questions and I use the blog quite often. As far as the torque wrench selection goes I have two - one from 2nm to 14nm which covers most of the work that I do and the other one covers the rest up to 60nm I have not required anything above 60nm but if I did I have a friend who is a motor mechanic who would help me out with a loan. Both are fairly expensive but I purchased them when the US$ exchange rate favoured us, both are from Park Tool, and both have reverse ratchet so can be used for right and left handed threads.

The following URL covers torque settings for a few different brands of components:

https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/re ... d-concepts

[ilovemybike]

Thanks both. With the reverse threading

Also, as mentioned above, getting a wrench that actually clicks (ie. controls torque) in both clockwise & anti-clockwise rotation directions is handy because things like pedals & cranks have left and right-hand threads.

I saw in a GCN video, they said only use the torque wrench to tighten, it will last longer. Is this what you are referring to with both directions? Or are you saying there are screws that go the other way as default and a single direction wrench just won’t work.


That blog was very useful indeed. Thanks for that @Gordonhooker. What a pain, so many torque settings, and no one size fits all wrench.

[Gordonhooker]

Thanks both. With the reverse threading

Also, as mentioned above, getting a wrench that actually clicks (ie. controls torque) in both clockwise & anti-clockwise rotation directions is handy because things like pedals & cranks have left and right-hand threads.

I saw in a GCN video, they said only use the torque wrench to tighten, it will last longer. Is this what you are referring to with both directions? Or are you saying there are screws that go the other way as default and a single direction wrench just won’t work.


That blog was very useful indeed. Thanks for that @Gordonhooker. What a pain, so many torque settings, and no one size fits all wrench.

-
Yes you do only use a torque wrench to tighten what we mean is that there are both left hand and right hand threads such pedals and cranks.

[Andy01]

Thanks both. With the reverse threading

Also, as mentioned above, getting a wrench that actually clicks (ie. controls torque) in both clockwise & anti-clockwise rotation directions is handy because things like pedals & cranks have left and right-hand threads.

I saw in a GCN video, they said only use the torque wrench to tighten, it will last longer. Is this what you are referring to with both directions? Or are you saying there are screws that go the other way as default and a single direction wrench just won’t work.


That blog was very useful indeed. Thanks for that @Gordonhooker. What a pain, so many torque settings, and no one size fits all wrench.

Just to clarify what I said above;

Most bolt threads are "standard" right hand threads - this means that turning them clockwise tightens them.

Some bolt threads used on bikes are left hand threads (eg. on pedals and cranks - one side only) - this means that turning them clockwise LOOSENS them, not tightens them. They have to be turned in a anti-clockwise direction to tighten them.

A standard/cheaper torque wrench is likely to only limit torque on right hand threads when applying force in a clockwise direction.

A common example of a left hand thread is a standard 8.5kg gas bottle for a BBQ.

[ilovemybike]

Ah thanks for clarifying Andy. It’s one of those situations when someone decides the normal is not good enough and changes it to make it difficult lol. You would think this sort of thing should be quite standard.

[Andy01]

Ah thanks for clarifying Andy. It’s one of those situations when someone decides the normal is not good enough and changes it to make it difficult lol. You would think this sort of thing should be quite standard.

No, there is actually a solid technical reason for it.

The direction of rotation is different on one side to prevent the bolts from unscrewing as the pedals turn. They are designed that normal pedal rotation will try to tighten the bolts on both sides and because the pedal on the right (drive) side rotates CW and the left (non-drive) side rotates CCW, the bolt threads have to be different as well.

[ilovemybike]

Ah okay, thanks for that. i think i will just get a 1/4 inch for now. should suit what i need

[trailgumby]

Ah okay, thanks for that. i think i will just get a 1/4 inch for now. should suit what i need

That's the one that is probably the most critical, and the one you will use the most. The 3/8" torque wrench I use mostly for pedals and cranks, and there's a bit more leeway and less likelihood of damage if you get a bit enthusiastic tightening down those. In contrast, with smaller bolts like stem, saddle, and seat post you need to be more accurate with fastening torques, as they impact your control of the bike.

[P!N20]

No, there is actually a solid technical reason for it

Though I never worked out why gas bottles are reverse threaded

[ilovemybike]

Yeah I haven't had a problem with it. Seems fine for domestic bike maintenance.

Which Venzo version did you get

https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/venz ... VZ-F33-069

https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/venz ... VZ-F33-031

Both seem to have the same spec but one has lifetime warranty and the other has 10 years.

[P!N20]

Which Venzo version did you get

First one:

https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/venz ... VZ-F33-069

I think the other one was out of stock when I bought that.

[ilovemybike]

Which Venzo version did you get

First one:

https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/venz ... VZ-F33-069

I think the other one was out of stock when I bought that.

Thanks I think I also want to get this one as it can go up in smaller increments in nm (not sure whether it will make a difference, it’s such small adjustments) . The other one has much more reviews though so seem like the better choice but I think it only goes up by 1nm.

[Mr Purple]

I have the second Venzo one listed above - no issues at all. Seems very solid.