How hard is it to sell 2nd hand tubular wheelset?

[nogearandnoidea]

I bought a 2nd hand bike from a friend a few years ago and he gave me also a set of wheels that are Campagnolo Bora One which are tubular. I don't really do any racing, so would like to sell them and get a clincher wheelset.

FB marketplace seems to have a lot of offers to sell tubular wheelsets, how hard would it be for me to sell them, is FB the right place, and more or less what price if they have a new set of tyres on them and work fine?

Any tips appreciated.

[kilroy]

I bought a 2nd hand bike from a friend a few years ago and he gave me also a set of wheels that are Campagnolo Bora One which are tubular. I don't really do any racing, so would like to sell them and get a clincher wheelset.

FB marketplace seems to have a lot of offers to sell tubular wheelsets, how hard would it be for me to sell them, is FB the right place, and more or less what price if they have a new set of tyres on them and work fine?

Any tips appreciated.

Hey mate, I've just spent a few weeks looking at different wheelsets on FB Marketplace. There are certainly a lot of tubular wheelsets and there seems to be a lot of nice carbon rim brake wheelsets just sitting there. There has probably never been a better time to pick up a set of decent tubulars or carbon rim brake wheelsets (which doesn't help you if you are selling). I've just upgraded to my first disc roadie, and I've gone for a tubeless setup. I think one of the big issues with the tubulars is that a decent percentage of potential buyers have gone the tubeless route instead. I know people do race crits on tubeless setups, but I have no idea what percentage of the field would be running each particular setup. As far as a fair price goes, I have no idea sorry. The only places I've looked are FB Marketplace and Bike Exchange. I don't even bother with Gumtree or eBay.

[MattyK]

Nobody wants tubulars any more.

[warthog1]

Nobody wants tubulars any more.

Have to agree. Unless you are track racing just an unnecessary pita.
I have some sitting around I haven't ridden for 10 years

40+k km on tubeless when I include gravel.
Vastly reduced rate of punctures and the few that don't seal are dealt with by a plug or a tube.
A few new things to learn when using them but pretty easy and no regrets when you do.
Raced on tubular for a few years. Yep out of a few races that tubeless and sealant would have easily dealt with.
Bin the expensive tyre too.

Refilling sealant if needed?

[davehirst]

Is it possible to relace them to a set of usable rims for a spare wheelset?

[P!N20]

Is it possible to relace them to a set of usable rims for a spare wheelset?

Yeah, in theory. If you can find clincher rims with the matching number of holes and the same ERD or new spokes in the required length and what do you mean they don't fit the hub?

[davehirst]

what do you mean they don't fit the hub???

What do you mean by what do i mean rhey dont fit the hub.
I never mentioned hubs.
I am confused

[open roader]

I was looking for a pair of Bora One (version 2 Diamente or version 3 AC3) tubulars about 5 weeks ago - could not find a pair in AU for love nor money.

I had a pair of V2 Bora One tubulars for years then had a brain fade and sold them.

Best wheelset I ever rode, most comfortable with 28mm tyres and fast and nible with 25mm race tyres.

Gluing tubulars is no less of a PIA than fitting up tight tubeless bastards and 6 monthly sealant refills.

I ride Bora WTO 45's now running tubeless - lovely wheels but I preferred the Bora One 35 Tubulars.

To the OP :-

If they present well, you are prepared to box and ship them and are priced right for which ever version they are (brake track and rim width differences over 3 versions) then FB marketplace is as good as place as any to sell them and they should go fast to some rusted on on old mastik sniffer like myself........

[warthog1]

^^ you have your buyer maybe

[P!N20]

what do you mean they don't fit the hub???

What do you mean by what do i mean rhey dont fit the hub.
I never mentioned hubs.
I am confused

I'm being silly, but broadly there's two spoke types - J bend and straight pull, but throw in slotted holes for bladed spokes and the fun begins.

[davehirst]

Ahh, got it. thanks for clearing it up.

[nogearandnoidea]

I bought a 2nd hand bike from a friend a few years ago and he gave me also a set of wheels that are Campagnolo Bora One which are tubular. I don't really do any racing, so would like to sell them and get a clincher wheelset.

FB marketplace seems to have a lot of offers to sell tubular wheelsets, how hard would it be for me to sell them, is FB the right place, and more or less what price if they have a new set of tyres on them and work fine?

Any tips appreciated.

Hey mate, I've just spent a few weeks looking at different wheelsets on FB Marketplace. There are certainly a lot of tubular wheelsets and there seems to be a lot of nice carbon rim brake wheelsets just sitting there. There has probably never been a better time to pick up a set of decent tubulars or carbon rim brake wheelsets (which doesn't help you if you are selling). I've just upgraded to my first disc roadie, and I've gone for a tubeless setup. I think one of the big issues with the tubulars is that a decent percentage of potential buyers have gone the tubeless route instead. I know people do race crits on tubeless setups, but I have no idea what percentage of the field would be running each particular setup. As far as a fair price goes, I have no idea sorry. The only places I've looked are FB Marketplace and Bike Exchange. I don't even bother with Gumtree or eBay.

thank you

[nogearandnoidea]

I was looking for a pair of Bora One (version 2 Diamente or version 3 AC3) tubulars about 5 weeks ago - could not find a pair in AU for love nor money.

I had a pair of V2 Bora One tubulars for years then had a brain fade and sold them.

Best wheelset I ever rode, most comfortable with 28mm tyres and fast and nible with 25mm race tyres.

Gluing tubulars is no less of a PIA than fitting up tight tubeless bastards and 6 monthly sealant refills.

I ride Bora WTO 45's now running tubeless - lovely wheels but I preferred the Bora One 35 Tubulars.

To the OP :-

If they present well, you are prepared to box and ship them and are priced right for which ever version they are (brake track and rim width differences over 3 versions) then FB marketplace is as good as place as any to sell them and they should go fast to some rusted on on old mastik sniffer like myself........

Thank you, how can I know which version are they? Can't see any markings on them that gives me further details, they have 25mm race tyres at the moment.

[warthog1]

Nobody wants tubulars any more.

Read this today, in an interesting article;

Tubulars no longer offer the lowest rolling resistance
A tubular tyre – or a tub – which again requires a specific rim, consists of the carcass material, the rubber, the inner tube, the base tape and the stitching. You also need to factor in the glue or tape that’s used to stick the tub to the wheel.

“All of this material can deform and there’s a 5 watt difference at 30 km/h (19 mph) between a tubular and a Continental GP 5000 with a latex tube or a tubeless setup,” says Jan. “This is why you see even national track teams for the Olympics changing to clincher setups.”

https://road.cc/content/feature/rolling ... res-279289

Makes going to the bother of gluing them on and also in terms of replacement in the event of a puncture, seem pretty pointless.

[open roader]

Thank you, how can I know which version are they? Can't see any markings on them that gives me further details, they have 25mm race tyres at the moment.

** Measure the rim widths, observe the hub shells and look at the brake tracks **

There are some early versions of Carbon Boras with silver alloy hubs and silver radial spoke patterns but these are rare and dead easy to pick apart from the later generations.

The next few gen. carbon Boras came with 19 and 20mm external width rims, black alloy or carbon hub shells, rears with G3 spoke pattern and non italicised decals. These versions had no visible treatment on the brake tracks - the carbon weave on the rim and the track look identical and there is no special machining applied to the tracks

The next couple of generations had 24mm external width rims, all had carbon hub shells, retained the G3 rear /radial front spoke lacing and had the brake tracks visibly ground lightly so the carbon weave on the tracks looks cut and scored back compared to the weave on the rim.

The Generation after these is the AC3 Bora which has obvious regular curved cuts made into the brake tracks which are visible from side angle viewing and can't be confused with any other version.

BTW the current WTO rim brake Boras retain the same AC3 brake treatment.

[open roader]

https://road.cc/content/feature/rolling ... res-279289

Makes going to the bother of gluing them on and also in terms of replacement in the event of a puncture, seem pretty pointless.

High end tubulars feel truly great to roll on.......... it's the VIBE of the thing..............

I don't give a toss about watt gain loss and I's suggest most recreational riders don't either, however I've recently switched to riding current model Veloflex Corsa Evo tubless on Bora WTO 45's and after riding exclusively on various high end tubulars on Bora One 35's I have to say the Veloflex tubeless tyres are every bit as good in the VIBE dept!

[warthog1]

High end tubulars feel truly great to roll on.......... it's the VIBE of the thing..............

I don't give a toss about watt gain loss and I's suggest most recreational riders don't either, however I've recently switched to riding current model Veloflex Corsa Evo tubless on Bora WTO 45's and after riding exclusively on various high end tubulars on Bora One 35's I have to say the Veloflex tubeless tyres are every bit as good in the VIBE dept!

I haven't ridden mine in 10 years.
I seem to remember them feeling good too.
As long as you enjoy them is what's most important I agree.

[Thoglette]

Tubulars no longer offer the lowest rolling resistance

“All of this material can deform and there’s a 5 watt difference at 30 km/h (19 mph) between a tubular and a Continental GP 5000 with a latex tube or a tubeless setup,” says Jan.

https://road.cc/content/feature/rolling ... res-279289

Which is why I don’t buy tubulars from Continental: they’re not even as good as their conventional tyres.

But tubbies are so last century: send all your wheels to me and I’ll dispose of them appropriately

[warthog1]

Tubulars no longer offer the lowest rolling resistance

“All of this material can deform and there’s a 5 watt difference at 30 km/h (19 mph) between a tubular and a Continental GP 5000 with a latex tube or a tubeless setup,” says Jan.

https://road.cc/content/feature/rolling ... res-279289

Which is why I don’t buy tubulars from Continental: they’re not even as good as their conventional tyres.

But tubbies are so last century: send all your wheels to me and I’ll dispose of them appropriately

Well there you go try Vittoria then.
Same result.

I am also wondering how you run the 40mm tyres Jan Heine advocates if you are running those puncture prone tubulars?

[foo on patrol]

I'll take my tubulars over high pressure wheels any day. I race on them and train on ordinary high pressure wheels with cheap heavy tyres. I refuse to pay stupid money for high pressure tyres for riding around the streets/coffee shop/training rides, it is a totally stupid waste of money, all in the name of what..........Oh look at me, I'm riding on the latest race tyre around glass debris loaded streets and then jump up and down when 100mtrs down the road you get a puncture in your $100 tyre.

Foo

[DernyDriver]

I'll take my tubulars over high pressure wheels any day. I race on them and train on ordinary high pressure wheels with cheap heavy tyres. I refuse to pay stupid money for high pressure tyres for riding around the streets/coffee shop/training rides, it is a totally stupid waste of money, all in the name of what..........Oh look at me, I'm riding on the latest race tyre around glass debris loaded streets and then jump up and down when 100mtrs down the road you get a puncture in your $100 tyre.

Foo

Correct mate, there are many factors to consider when choosing tubular, tubeless or clincher and rolling resistance is probably the least influential factor.
I remember a Tour of Tahiti where we put all our boys on 25mm Continental tubulars ...advantage being they dont puncture on the rough roads and you can ride them flat for a while while waiting to a spare wheel to arrive. They wont roll off if you puncture on a 20 percent hell descent down the side of a volcano. Other teams rode faster Vittorias but got dozens of punctures and spent nearly every stage chasing back on which was funny.
When my young bloke started riding all I really cared about was his safety, he used to do all these climbs and descents where we live, so I forked out big money to buy the softest grippiest clincher tyres on the market. I had to replace them every couple of months but the money was peace of mind and you cant put a price on that. He had a hairy moment locking up on the steepest part of Mt Keira when a car pulled out of a driveway - the rear tyre was destroyed but did the job and he didnt come off.
My mate sent me some hilarious photos of his bike and himself covered in sealant ...looked like an explosion happened in a custard factory ...he had punctured on his new tubeless tyres out in the country and couldnt get the thing fixed. If ease of tyre change is a priority then tubeless is probably not the right choice.

[warthog1]

I'll take my tubulars over high pressure wheels any day. I race on them and train on ordinary high pressure wheels with cheap heavy tyres. I refuse to pay stupid money for high pressure tyres for riding around the streets/coffee shop/training rides, it is a totally stupid waste of money, all in the name of what..........Oh look at me, I'm riding on the latest race tyre around glass debris loaded streets and then jump up and down when 100mtrs down the road you get a puncture in your $100 tyre.

Foo

I have also raced on tubular. Club racing mainly but did a few bigger events. Yeah they were ok but puncture and you are out.
I follow you on Strava mate, you aint done many k's at all in the tubeless era.
That will change now for you hopefully.
I no longer race apart from a couple of gravel events in the last 2 years. Licence is about to expire and I will probably let it go. Why would I not use a tyre system that allows less pressure with my larger tyres for comfort without a speed penalty? Why also not use a system that is very resistant to punctures whilst retaining those advantages.
I had a Cont GP5k TL that was slowly losing air overnight. After a few days I decided to investigate. Pulled out 2 bits of tyre wire from knuckleheads doing burnouts. Rolled the tyre to the bottom and sealant did its' job.
That tyre stayed on with no further action until it wore out.
Yes there is a learning curve with tubeless, seating tyres, the odd clogged valve.
I can tell you after 10s of thousands of ks on them the advantages dwarf any problems.
They are just better imo.

[warthog1]

My mate sent me some hilarious photos of his bike and himself covered in sealant ...looked like an explosion happened in a custard factory ...he had punctured on his new tubeless tyres out in the country and couldnt get the thing fixed. If ease of tyre change is a priority then tubeless is probably not the right choice.

It aint that hard. Plugs and if that fails a tube.
Had to use a tube once on road due to a clogged valve ( so my fault).
A couple of times on gravel.
15K km of gravel now and sealant has done the job multiple times.

[foo on patrol]

I'll take my tubulars over high pressure wheels any day. I race on them and train on ordinary high pressure wheels with cheap heavy tyres. I refuse to pay stupid money for high pressure tyres for riding around the streets/coffee shop/training rides, it is a totally stupid waste of money, all in the name of what..........Oh look at me, I'm riding on the latest race tyre around glass debris loaded streets and then jump up and down when 100mtrs down the road you get a puncture in your $100 tyre.

Foo

I have also raced on tubular. Club racing mainly but did a few bigger events. Yeah they were ok but puncture and you are out.
I follow you on Strava mate, you aint done many k's at all in the tubeless era.
That will change now for you hopefully.
I no longer race apart from a couple of gravel events in the last 2 years. Licence is about to expire and I will probably let it go. Why would I not use a tyre system that allows less pressure with my larger tyres for comfort without a speed penalty? Why also not use a system that is very resistant to punctures whilst retaining those advantages.
I had a Cont GP5k TL that was slowly losing air overnight. After a few days I decided to investigate. Pulled out 2 bits of tyre wire from knuckleheads doing burnouts. Rolled the tyre to the bottom and sealant did its' job.
That tyre stayed on with no further action until it wore out.
Yes there is a learning curve with tubeless, seating tyres, the odd clogged valve.
I can tell you after 10s of thousands of ks on them the advantages dwarf any problems.
They are just better imo.

I always carried a spare strip in races (tucked up under the seat) and never had to pull out of a race because of a puncture. I still carried one when doing the Bribie Tri bike leg.

I'm still in recover mode and ride when I feel up to it.

Foo

[foo on patrol]

I'll take my tubulars over high pressure wheels any day. I race on them and train on ordinary high pressure wheels with cheap heavy tyres. I refuse to pay stupid money for high pressure tyres for riding around the streets/coffee shop/training rides, it is a totally stupid waste of money, all in the name of what..........Oh look at me, I'm riding on the latest race tyre around glass debris loaded streets and then jump up and down when 100mtrs down the road you get a puncture in your $100 tyre.

Foo

Correct mate, there are many factors to consider when choosing tubular, tubeless or clincher and rolling resistance is probably the least influential factor.
I remember a Tour of Tahiti where we put all our boys on 25mm Continental tubulars ...advantage being they dont puncture on the rough roads and you can ride them flat for a while while waiting to a spare wheel to arrive. They wont roll off if you puncture on a 20 percent hell descent down the side of a volcano. Other teams rode faster Vittorias but got dozens of punctures and spent nearly every stage chasing back on which was funny.
When my young bloke started riding all I really cared about was his safety, he used to do all these climbs and descents where we live, so I forked out big money to buy the softest grippiest clincher tyres on the market. I had to replace them every couple of months but the money was peace of mind and you cant put a price on that. He had a hairy moment locking up on the steepest part of Mt Keira when a car pulled out of a driveway - the rear tyre was destroyed but did the job and he didnt come off.
My mate sent me some hilarious photos of his bike and himself covered in sealant ...looked like an explosion happened in a custard factory ...he had punctured on his new tubeless tyres out in the country and couldnt get the thing fixed. If ease of tyre change is a priority then tubeless is probably not the right choice.

Yep.

Foo