Workshop tales, trials and disasters. Maintenance tips, techniques and myths. Technical discussion, description and outright lies
Moderators: mikesbytes, Kalgrm, Mulger bill
by Boognoss » Fri Sep 26, 2008 3:10 pm
I have done over 4200km on my pair of Specialized Roubaix Pro tyres. The rear is very flattened in the middle of the tread area (it's slick but you get the idea). I have had a couple of punctures on this tyre only in the last 1000km or so. There's no wear down to the casing or anything like that, but when is the time to change them?
I have a new set ready to go on but don't want to waste any use provided it's safe.
Cheers
Cheers, Simon'10 Salsa Casseroll SS, '09 Specialized Tricross Comp CX, '08 Avanti Corsa road

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by twizzle » Fri Sep 26, 2008 3:24 pm
I change mine when it starts to bulge around the cuts in the tyre.
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by Verbs & Nouns » Fri Sep 26, 2008 4:03 pm
Ten Grand wrote:Goddamnit baby, this is soul... What's wrong with you?
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by mikesbytes » Fri Sep 26, 2008 4:47 pm
When any of the following conditions apply;
1. The tyre is damaged beyond repairing with a patch.
2. The tyre has worn till the threads show
3. You are getting jack of getting flats
4. You have a flat tyre and your at home, might as well throw the new one on anyway.
5. You are scheduled to go for a ride with JRDacks, Killer or me and you don't feel lucky.
My head is worth considerably more than the helmet that covers it Tour de Mike
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by il padrone » Fri Sep 26, 2008 6:00 pm
Verbs & Nouns wrote:
What an amzing collection! And judging by the treads, every one is a Vittoria Randonneur - great tyres  With all the tread worn down, that red layer is the 'Double Defence' puncture resistant layer - it works!! Nearly all these tyres would still stay up and not get punctures, although their traction may be a bit compromised 
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by DaveW » Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:09 am
My rear (Factory fitment - CST  ) is flat across the "tread area" after 1500km.
There is no visible "tread" (only 4mm long grooves angled outwards) left at all.
I was thinking of changing it out for a "puncture resistant" tyre but how long should a tyre last on the rear - I would have thought more than this but then again I am a bigger lad - slowly getting down to 100kg from about 110.
Anyone know if standard tyres (700x23) have a warning strip of any kind or is that the threads?
The front still looks good by the way.
Bottecchia 803 Flat bar roadie.
I'm not a complete idiot - parts of me are missing!

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by sogood » Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:24 am
It's just terrible when you see your tyres have worn flat and know it's time to practice road-side puncture repairs again.
Bianchi, Ridley, GT, Garmin, Mac 
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by thepj » Sun Oct 05, 2008 12:39 am
not to get off the subject to much but is it worth it to buy a set of the puncture resistant tyres?
2007 giant crx4
2004 RALEIGH
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by Bnej » Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:07 am
thepj wrote:not to get off the subject to much but is it worth it to buy a set of the puncture resistant tyres?
Yes. I have a GP4000 and a Gatorskin, and have never had a penetration puncture since I got them.
I rode over half a broken glass bottle and it was fine - I did pick the glass out when I got home but it didn't get through the breaker.
The real question is "is it worth it to buy tyres without puncture protection", since most of the good ones have some these days.
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by sogood » Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:22 am
Not scientific, but I have found that the chance of a puncture can be minimized if one glides over a glass field rather than powering over one at speed. In other words, cruise and don't pedal hard. Of course, one still needs to check for embedded fragments at the first opportunity.
Bianchi, Ridley, GT, Garmin, Mac 
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by thepj » Sun Oct 05, 2008 9:16 am
alright might look into it for when my tires wear out, i have what ever stock comes with crx4.
2007 giant crx4
2004 RALEIGH
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